Affairs of the Heart by Aie Rossman QAL
#181
Here are some examples of what I've been experimenting with using the satin stitch. My main machine is electronic and a bit limited in stitch width.
I can go 0-6, but only in whole increments, and it was noticeable when I went from 1 to 2 and then 3. So I switched to my older White that has a dial, so I can get a much smoother transition. Though this is not my Mother's machine, it is the model she had when I was young. We also had a Singer 201, and when we got good with that one, Mom would let us graduate to the "good" machine. This machine is just a few years younger than I am (and I do have the machine my mom owned before buying this one).
I'm by no means accomplished at doing this - I'm not posting to brag about my ability - but to help give others ideas. Besides, making mistakes is the best why to learn a better way to do things LOL!!
These were all done with the feed dogs in the "nylon" position, and the foot pressure way light. I also put the buttonhole/cording foot on the machine as it has a nice bottom gap for the thread to fit under. I tried a darning foot, but since it did not have that gap, it didn't work. The feed dogs are engaged enough to help control, but I can still move the fabric sideways and around easily. I found for tight curves, sew SLOW and turn FAST.
For the outlining, I experimented with using a narrow zigzag.
But what I liked better (becuase it gives a more "hand" look) was to drop the feeddogs and do it free hand. I did a straight stitch on the lines, then turned and went backwards doing a narrow zigzag, but I kept the fabric close to the same direction. I found I had better visiblity going backward than forward. I'm going to try a few other ideas for this too before I decide what to do with the gold/purple blocks.
I can go 0-6, but only in whole increments, and it was noticeable when I went from 1 to 2 and then 3. So I switched to my older White that has a dial, so I can get a much smoother transition. Though this is not my Mother's machine, it is the model she had when I was young. We also had a Singer 201, and when we got good with that one, Mom would let us graduate to the "good" machine. This machine is just a few years younger than I am (and I do have the machine my mom owned before buying this one).
I'm by no means accomplished at doing this - I'm not posting to brag about my ability - but to help give others ideas. Besides, making mistakes is the best why to learn a better way to do things LOL!!
These were all done with the feed dogs in the "nylon" position, and the foot pressure way light. I also put the buttonhole/cording foot on the machine as it has a nice bottom gap for the thread to fit under. I tried a darning foot, but since it did not have that gap, it didn't work. The feed dogs are engaged enough to help control, but I can still move the fabric sideways and around easily. I found for tight curves, sew SLOW and turn FAST.
For the outlining, I experimented with using a narrow zigzag.
But what I liked better (becuase it gives a more "hand" look) was to drop the feeddogs and do it free hand. I did a straight stitch on the lines, then turned and went backwards doing a narrow zigzag, but I kept the fabric close to the same direction. I found I had better visiblity going backward than forward. I'm going to try a few other ideas for this too before I decide what to do with the gold/purple blocks.
#184
I started a few days ago - and did block 18 to start. That one has no inside corners to deal with. I also enlarged my blocks so the peices would be easeir to work with.
I don't know what the method is called - I press under the edges before I sew it on to the backing. I don't think this would work with tiny pieces, and I still have not taken the time to figure out what "needle turn" is.
Here is block 18. I started on the embroidery but don't really like it. I've set this one aside and will try some different embroidery on the next one before I do more (or rip it out) with the other.
So I got brave, and tried tackling block #1. I think if I hadn't already done the other block, I would have given up. I really struggled with those tight turns and ends. It did get easier as I figured out better ways to do it. I don't think the way I'm doing them is going to work for the blocks with really small pieces. But they are a ways away, so maybe I'll be good enough at this by then!
One thing I learned was to take the paper of in sections to press down. I go all around first with the paper on, then trim and snip, and then remove the paper and press the edge down to hold. This works really well with batiks, not so well with other fabrics - the main reason I decided to switch to all batiks for this (plus all the pretty colors!)
Once I had them all turned, I started laying them out so I could get them positioned correctly. I don't mark the position because I'm more concerned with getting the pieces to fit with each other. My main concern was getting the orange so it lined up in the center, and then positioned and pinned down the yellow to sew. With the small pieces, most of the web is used to hold down the edges, so they needed to be pinned in place.
So last night while we listened to music, I stitched away. Here is the yellow stitched down. I'm using black thread, and it seems to be working OK. I started out with a cotton thread and it kept twisting and knotting up on me, so I switched to a poly thread I've had around for years that I know works well for hand stitching (back from the days I did alterations as a job)
I also got the orange on, and then called it a night. Didn't want to break my record and actually be awake at midnight! This morning I pinned the light blue in place.
I put a spot of fray check at each of the inside corners. Don't know if it's needed, but I feel better doing it.
I'm going to work on my test blocks more, still trying to decide which machine/method I want to use with the gold/purple set.
I don't know what the method is called - I press under the edges before I sew it on to the backing. I don't think this would work with tiny pieces, and I still have not taken the time to figure out what "needle turn" is.
Here is block 18. I started on the embroidery but don't really like it. I've set this one aside and will try some different embroidery on the next one before I do more (or rip it out) with the other.
So I got brave, and tried tackling block #1. I think if I hadn't already done the other block, I would have given up. I really struggled with those tight turns and ends. It did get easier as I figured out better ways to do it. I don't think the way I'm doing them is going to work for the blocks with really small pieces. But they are a ways away, so maybe I'll be good enough at this by then!
One thing I learned was to take the paper of in sections to press down. I go all around first with the paper on, then trim and snip, and then remove the paper and press the edge down to hold. This works really well with batiks, not so well with other fabrics - the main reason I decided to switch to all batiks for this (plus all the pretty colors!)
Once I had them all turned, I started laying them out so I could get them positioned correctly. I don't mark the position because I'm more concerned with getting the pieces to fit with each other. My main concern was getting the orange so it lined up in the center, and then positioned and pinned down the yellow to sew. With the small pieces, most of the web is used to hold down the edges, so they needed to be pinned in place.
So last night while we listened to music, I stitched away. Here is the yellow stitched down. I'm using black thread, and it seems to be working OK. I started out with a cotton thread and it kept twisting and knotting up on me, so I switched to a poly thread I've had around for years that I know works well for hand stitching (back from the days I did alterations as a job)
I also got the orange on, and then called it a night. Didn't want to break my record and actually be awake at midnight! This morning I pinned the light blue in place.
I put a spot of fray check at each of the inside corners. Don't know if it's needed, but I feel better doing it.
I'm going to work on my test blocks more, still trying to decide which machine/method I want to use with the gold/purple set.
#186
Cathy I love all that you have done. They will be beautiful. I feel a little sheepish admitting this but the more I study the book and follow your progression, the more I'm considering not doing this project....to be honest I'm just not liking the quilt that well to mess with all of the fiddley-ness of such small pieces. And I actually prefer small blocks. I initially had planned to hand appliqué. But this one....so I will probably just follow along as a viewer. I am tackling several other projects right now including another quilt along fussy cut hexi quilt.
#187
Macybaby said: I don't think this would work with tiny pieces, and I still have not taken the time to figure out what "needle turn" is.
Cathy needle turn is a hand appliqué term (I used to do a lot of hand appliqué , actually never have by machine). It is when you use the needle you are holding to tuck (turn) under the fabric edge to get a nice smooth, turned edge as you stitch.
So Cathy are you hand or machine stitching? You had talked about machine with the satin stitch but if you are turning under then are you hand stitching this?
Cathy needle turn is a hand appliqué term (I used to do a lot of hand appliqué , actually never have by machine). It is when you use the needle you are holding to tuck (turn) under the fabric edge to get a nice smooth, turned edge as you stitch.
So Cathy are you hand or machine stitching? You had talked about machine with the satin stitch but if you are turning under then are you hand stitching this?
Last edited by Cogito; 01-01-2015 at 07:02 AM.
#188
The black background blocks are hand stitched. I pressed under the edges first, so it's real easy to do a running stitch to sew them down. This picture is up close, the actual stitches are about 1/16" to 1/8" long
Was is neat with the batiks, when you press just the smidge of the edge, it holds itself like that, so you can trim and snip and then press down. I use a flat iron (no steam vents) to do this. Don't attempt it with steam or you'll scald your fingers! I leave the fabric long for the first pressing as it's much easier to manipulate that way.
Batik even finger presses quite well.
The cream are my test blocks - machine stitched
And the gold will be machine stitched. This is the one I really wanted to do for this QAL
Was is neat with the batiks, when you press just the smidge of the edge, it holds itself like that, so you can trim and snip and then press down. I use a flat iron (no steam vents) to do this. Don't attempt it with steam or you'll scald your fingers! I leave the fabric long for the first pressing as it's much easier to manipulate that way.
Batik even finger presses quite well.
The cream are my test blocks - machine stitched
And the gold will be machine stitched. This is the one I really wanted to do for this QAL
Last edited by Macybaby; 01-01-2015 at 10:08 AM.
#189
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 4,010
kaelynangelfoot, thanks for setting this up. And thanks for making everyone feel welcome. I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the thought of trying to get all 36 blocks done as I'm doing a couple BOMs and some other things. Plus I'm very new to applique. What I've decided to do is pick 12 blocks and just make those. I plan to hand applique. In December, I took a hand applique class and she showed us a couple different ways so will experiment with those to see what works best for me and that I like the best. I have attached a picture of the fabrics I've decided to use. Love seeing what others are doing and how they're doing it.
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