Cleaning and repairing the Shellac clear coat on Vintage sewing machine heads
#681
Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 12
I discovered PB Blaster on this thread and it is now a permanent part of the VSM restoration effort at my house. There are so many resources out there, there is no excuse to let these classic machines go to the dump.
#683
This has gone into my book marks to be recalled at a moments notice. I don't have that many older machine any more but have restored all but the last one I picked up. It is in fair condition but this will be a great help in getting to 100%. Thank you for a great learning tool.
#684
I just finished my sample block. It still needs a bit of squaring up but IMHO looks ok. I decided not to put a circle center on the ones I am making so they will not be confused with ones that were made by an unknown artist.
#685
Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 26
A Small Clarification
I have a machine that I want to French polish. I've read this thread and the other thread started by Glenn on this subject several times, but there is one thing I'm not sure about. Should I let the machine sit for a day or so between each application of shellac?
I picked up a Singer 66 in bad shape to practice on. Glad I did, because I missed the fact the denatured alcohol/boiled linseed oil part of the procedure was to prep the surface rather than to remove the shellac and I took off more of the shellac than I probably should have in my trial run. No matter this is just practice, I proceeded to apply shellac as indicated by Glen and it looked pretty good, not perfect but the marks left by the cloth were very slight and only noticeable when checking it at odd angles. But the marks got worse with additional coats. Not sure if this was because I should have given it more time to dry or if it was because I used more BLO with the later coats. You see I also missed that you need less BLO with each coat.
Any insights or suggestions would be appreciated,
Tammy
I picked up a Singer 66 in bad shape to practice on. Glad I did, because I missed the fact the denatured alcohol/boiled linseed oil part of the procedure was to prep the surface rather than to remove the shellac and I took off more of the shellac than I probably should have in my trial run. No matter this is just practice, I proceeded to apply shellac as indicated by Glen and it looked pretty good, not perfect but the marks left by the cloth were very slight and only noticeable when checking it at odd angles. But the marks got worse with additional coats. Not sure if this was because I should have given it more time to dry or if it was because I used more BLO with the later coats. You see I also missed that you need less BLO with each coat.
Any insights or suggestions would be appreciated,
Tammy
Last edited by ttatummm; 03-26-2020 at 02:36 PM. Reason: spelling
#686
Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 5
Help with the finding the aniline dye?
Help! I'm really struggling to find this. All Lee Valley seems to have is water soluble aniline dye. I can only guess that is not the same but would it work?
#688
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 809
https://tinyurl.com/alcohol-dyes
Patti
#689
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
Not affiliated with off-site link(s)
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 04-26-2020 at 06:19 PM. Reason: fix quote formatting
#690
Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 5
Tiffiny- I did a quick google search and there are a lot of other places they are available, including Amazon!
https://tinyurl.com/alcohol-dyes
Patti
https://tinyurl.com/alcohol-dyes
Patti
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