Open Satin-Stitch Applique
03-05-2011, 04:03 PM
#1
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Location: Texas
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I am going to try to explain with words & pictures how I do machine applique. This method is the one used by a New Mexico quilter - J. Michelle Watts - from Roswell. She makes some beautiful quilts, & once I tried her way, I haven't gone back to any other way.
1. Trace all the pieces needed for the block onto the paper side of your favorite fusible. I like to use WonderUnder. Cut out each piece, leaving a small allowance outside the pencl lines. You will cut it down to size later. If the pieces are big enough, "window" them by cutting out the inside of the piece, leaving about 1/4" of fusible. It might help to sketch around the inside. Pick out the fabrics your blocks.
2. Iron the pieces, fusible side DOWN, onto the wrong side of your fabric.
3. Cut out the fused pieces on the drawn pencil line.
4. Using your pattern draw markings onto your background fabric to indicate where the pieces need to be placed. When you are pleased with how everything looks, pull the backing paper off & iron them down, following mfg., directions for your type of fusible.
5. Using matching thread, set up your machine for a regular zig-zag stitch, only set the width at about 1/8" wide and a short stitch length. You might want to fiddle with a scrap of fabric, stitching short rown until you find a combination you like. I have a Janome 6600 & I use a width of 1.8 max. & length of 0.8 max.
6. The red heart shows one side with contrasting thread & the other side with matching thread.
7. Stitch around the pieces, beginning with the pieces that are on the bottom & work your way up to the top. You don't need to backstitch. I start the heart at the top in the center valley. Stitch the piece down placing the right side of the zig-zag just off the applique piece and let the zag fall on the piece to the left. I stitch over the beginning stitched in the valley about2-3 stitches either zig-zag or zig-zag-zig so that I end up covering the first stitches.
When you come to a narrow pointy part, you will need to make your stitch narrower and maybe shorter. Stitch into the point, pivot and stitch back out, widening the width as you come back out. With practice, you will get the hang of this motion.
An open-toe embroidery foot makes this very easy to see. If you don't have an open-toe foot, consider getting one in the future. It also helps tremendously when paper piecing!
8. When you have reached the starting point, no need to back stitch, but rather pull the block out of machine & clip threads leaving a long enough tail to knot. Pull the top thread down to the back & tie a baker's knot (wrap the thread 2 times into the loop before tightening. I make 2 of these knots. Clip ends to about 1/2".
9. Stitch all pieces this way.
I hope I haven't confused anyone.
1. Trace all the pieces needed for the block onto the paper side of your favorite fusible. I like to use WonderUnder. Cut out each piece, leaving a small allowance outside the pencl lines. You will cut it down to size later. If the pieces are big enough, "window" them by cutting out the inside of the piece, leaving about 1/4" of fusible. It might help to sketch around the inside. Pick out the fabrics your blocks.
2. Iron the pieces, fusible side DOWN, onto the wrong side of your fabric.
3. Cut out the fused pieces on the drawn pencil line.
4. Using your pattern draw markings onto your background fabric to indicate where the pieces need to be placed. When you are pleased with how everything looks, pull the backing paper off & iron them down, following mfg., directions for your type of fusible.
5. Using matching thread, set up your machine for a regular zig-zag stitch, only set the width at about 1/8" wide and a short stitch length. You might want to fiddle with a scrap of fabric, stitching short rown until you find a combination you like. I have a Janome 6600 & I use a width of 1.8 max. & length of 0.8 max.
6. The red heart shows one side with contrasting thread & the other side with matching thread.
7. Stitch around the pieces, beginning with the pieces that are on the bottom & work your way up to the top. You don't need to backstitch. I start the heart at the top in the center valley. Stitch the piece down placing the right side of the zig-zag just off the applique piece and let the zag fall on the piece to the left. I stitch over the beginning stitched in the valley about2-3 stitches either zig-zag or zig-zag-zig so that I end up covering the first stitches.
When you come to a narrow pointy part, you will need to make your stitch narrower and maybe shorter. Stitch into the point, pivot and stitch back out, widening the width as you come back out. With practice, you will get the hang of this motion.
An open-toe embroidery foot makes this very easy to see. If you don't have an open-toe foot, consider getting one in the future. It also helps tremendously when paper piecing!
8. When you have reached the starting point, no need to back stitch, but rather pull the block out of machine & clip threads leaving a long enough tail to knot. Pull the top thread down to the back & tie a baker's knot (wrap the thread 2 times into the loop before tightening. I make 2 of these knots. Clip ends to about 1/2".
9. Stitch all pieces this way.
I hope I haven't confused anyone.
Getting everything together
[ATTACH=CONFIG]148724[/ATTACH]
Iron fusibles to wrong side of fabrics, paper side UP
[ATTACH=CONFIG]148725[/ATTACH]
Cut out the pieces on the pencil lines
[ATTACH=CONFIG]148726[/ATTACH]
Iron pieces to background
[ATTACH=CONFIG]148727[/ATTACH]
Sample with contrasting thread & matching thread
[ATTACH=CONFIG]148867[/ATTACH]
Stitch with needle just off the applique piece on the right and on the applique piece on the left
[ATTACH=CONFIG]149441[/ATTACH]
Out of place - matching thread
[ATTACH=CONFIG]149928[/ATTACH]
Block #9 - back.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]150012[/ATTACH]
Applique finished. Now on to the quilting & embroidery!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]151582[/ATTACH]
03-05-2011, 05:12 PM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 18,726
Nice Tute Kathy...it looks great! You are going to fly through this quilt doing it that way! The one question that I have is...do you get fraying when you wash it? It seems that the satin stitch would reduce it, but I just wonder. Thanks for doing the tute!
03-05-2011, 06:51 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,811
Fraying - no, not really. If it is going to fray, it usually does it while I'm zig-zagging. I have tiny blade curved snips that I use to clip off stray threads. I don't normally make bed quilts with applique - only wall hangings & they don't get washed much - I will toss them in the dryer to suck off the dust, though!
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