? About Machine Applied Binding
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sturbridge, Ma
Posts: 3,992
? About Machine Applied Binding
What makes a good machine applied binding. How do achieve a good machine binding. Ihave a lecture tonight and this subject always is asked. I would appreciate your thoughts.
#2
I use a walking foot, sew to the front, fold over and hand stitch the back. I find that I need the walking foot and mine is just the right width to sew right along the edge of the fabric. I usually cut my binding the width of the fabric not on the bias.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Woburn, MA
Posts: 711
I use a 2 1/2" strip, ironed and folded in half, right sides out. Since I have hand problems, I like to sew the entire binding on with my machine using my walking foot. First I square up the quilt, then I sew the binding on the back of the quilt, sewing 1/3 the distance from the edge. Then I iron the binding out, fold over the sew it on the front of my quilt with my machine. If you use the same color binding as the backing, the thread color will blend perfectly. It so fast and looks pretty darn good. Some one at a workshop told me that if her thread shows in spots where she doesn't want it, she colors in the thread with a magic marker. I have never done that but its good to know in case I need to.
#5
We all have different methods, don't we? I cut my 2.5" strips on the bias, fold in half and press. Then I apply to the front of the quilt using my regular 1/4" foot. Then I take a pair of sharp embroidery scissors and cut out the batting from between the two layers of fabric, fold over and hand-sew to the back.
#7
I do all my binding by machine...sew to the front and SID on the front.
The trick is to have enough binding to catch it to the back. Otherwise I
have to go back and hand-stitch where I missed. Sewing the binding
straight in the first place definitely helps. I cut my starched binding 2.5"
and sew with 3/8" seam allowance. Making a test sample with same fabrics
and batting also helps find any problem before sewing the whole binding to
the quilt. I like to use this little template to mark my corners.
http://www.connectingthreads.com/Too...r__D81892.HTML
I stop one stitch before the mark and my corners look pretty good.
I glue my binding to the back with Elmer's school glue before SID to the front.
The trick is to have enough binding to catch it to the back. Otherwise I
have to go back and hand-stitch where I missed. Sewing the binding
straight in the first place definitely helps. I cut my starched binding 2.5"
and sew with 3/8" seam allowance. Making a test sample with same fabrics
and batting also helps find any problem before sewing the whole binding to
the quilt. I like to use this little template to mark my corners.
http://www.connectingthreads.com/Too...r__D81892.HTML
I stop one stitch before the mark and my corners look pretty good.
I glue my binding to the back with Elmer's school glue before SID to the front.
#8
Power Poster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 10,590
No matter how hard I try, my 100% machine attached bindings never look good to me. So I hand stitch the back. But I do want to try Charismah's flange method. that sounds like I may be somewhat pleased with the results. I've tried Easy Peezy's method and just made a mess of things with the glue and it looked absolutely horrible on the back. Thank goodness the glue all washed out.
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