Free Motion Quilting Issues
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,002
The drag over the edge of the machine/extension table, since the machine isn't recessed into a table, can definitely pull a larger quilt and cause it to fight you. Those suspension systems really seem to help with this.
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 4,394
I recently had a similar problem. I tried everything I could think of. The last thing I tried worked. Is that like the last place you look for something is where you find it? LOL What I did was simply change the thread position from coming off the side of the spool to coming off the end of the spool. Well I’ve heard that makes a difference but had never experienced such a dramatic one!
#13
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,585
There are a couple of things mentioned in this thread that I would like to expand upon.
Regarding thread and needle size: What kind/size thread are you using? You mentioned that you switched from a size 12 to a size 14 needle. I found that when I used a 40 wt thread (King Tut, which is fairly thick), I needed to go up to a size 16 topstitch needle. Topstitch needles have a larger eye and "scarf" or groove in the side of the needle; this protects the thread from a lot of friction as the needle moves in and out of the quilt sandwich. A 16 will also help with any skipping issues because it's thicker and less bendy. (I know you didn't say anything about skipped stitches, I'm just throwing that in for future reference.)
Regarding thread position: Watch carefully to see how the thread comes off the spool or cone - is it sideways? Does the thread twist off the spool straight up? Or does the spool spin? Sometimes the way the thread comes off the spool makes it very susceptible to twisting and knotting, then fraying or breaking as it moves through the mechanisms of the machine.
Regarding thread and needle size: What kind/size thread are you using? You mentioned that you switched from a size 12 to a size 14 needle. I found that when I used a 40 wt thread (King Tut, which is fairly thick), I needed to go up to a size 16 topstitch needle. Topstitch needles have a larger eye and "scarf" or groove in the side of the needle; this protects the thread from a lot of friction as the needle moves in and out of the quilt sandwich. A 16 will also help with any skipping issues because it's thicker and less bendy. (I know you didn't say anything about skipped stitches, I'm just throwing that in for future reference.)
Regarding thread position: Watch carefully to see how the thread comes off the spool or cone - is it sideways? Does the thread twist off the spool straight up? Or does the spool spin? Sometimes the way the thread comes off the spool makes it very susceptible to twisting and knotting, then fraying or breaking as it moves through the mechanisms of the machine.
#15
When I FMQ I use a size 16 needle, take pressure off presser foot, turn stitch dial to zero. I always wear garden gloves with rubber nubs. I run the machine fast and move my hands slow.
Practice a lot works.
Practice a lot works.
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 1,231
Are you using a hopping foot? You shouldn't be having trouble over seams with a hopping foot. As for thread breaking and shredding, I find that newbies tend to try to FMQ way too fast...try slowing down. Keep at it, you'll get there ! I don't think any one of us started out trouble free..bu you will get it with practice.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lexington, MA
Posts: 1,170
I was taught that the position of the spool depends on how the thread is wound on it. As described in this article:
https://madetosew.com/cross-wound-ve...tacked-thread/
https://madetosew.com/cross-wound-ve...tacked-thread/
#18
Thread?
Thank you to everyone who responded. You are all generous with your time and expertise. I don't understand the reference to a suspension system. I have been using 50 weight poly and a 14 needle. In the past, I have used 40 weight and 50 weight cottons as well. Can you tell me a little about the kinds of threads you might recommend? Thanks!
#19
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,002
Watson uses dog grooming arms as a very affordable solution
Here's another thread on PVC suspension systems
There are a few places that sell pre-kitted designs, like Jenoops. They are usually "kinda pricey" because of the cost to ship long PVC bits.
#20
The Brother 1500s can be a bit tricky when doing fmq. I find with mine I have to go much slower and be sure my quilting foot is on the machine securely. It likes to drag if you go to fast. Even though it can max at 1500 stitches per minute I wouldn't go but a fraction of that speed when doing fmq.