Janome 350e prewound bobbin & stabilizer help
#1
Janome 350e prewound bobbin & stabilizer help
We just purchased a Janome 350e Embroidery machine to use in our after school sewing program.
I have never used an embroidery machine; but I understand from reading some of the posts here that the bobbin thread used is very important. The machine came with a spool of #90 Janome thread which is to be used for the bobbin thread.
We would like to purchase prewound bobbins, but the ones we see are 60 weight thread.
Can we use these prewound bobbins or do we need to wind our own using the #90 thread?
Where is a good place to buy the prewound bobbins?
Also, we understand the stabilizer is very important, too.
What brand and weight of stabilizer works the best.
Any comments will be appreciated.
I have never used an embroidery machine; but I understand from reading some of the posts here that the bobbin thread used is very important. The machine came with a spool of #90 Janome thread which is to be used for the bobbin thread.
We would like to purchase prewound bobbins, but the ones we see are 60 weight thread.
Can we use these prewound bobbins or do we need to wind our own using the #90 thread?
Where is a good place to buy the prewound bobbins?
Also, we understand the stabilizer is very important, too.
What brand and weight of stabilizer works the best.
Any comments will be appreciated.
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Tomball (near Houston), Texas
Posts: 172
Hubby bought this machine for me last year. I am using the pre-wound bobbins from the store that sold us the machine, although they are sold at Hobby Lobby and probably JoAnns. They said the pre-wound bobbins were better because they were consistent in their winding (not too tight or too loose). I like the white ones, but the black ones are bad (they break, as if the tension is not right or the thread is rotten). So, I just use the white bobbins and leave the black in my box. You are required to use a stabilizer each and every time. We purchased the Medium Weight Firm Tearaway (roll 14" x 25 yards @ $19.99). There is not a "brand" on it. I love it!!! I use it with everything, but I also have the water-soluable and tricot for the projects where they are needed. Our 8 & 9 year old grand-daughters are able to use this machine very easily, too. Your students should enjoy working on this machine. The small window is sometimes a problem for these old eyes, but it hasn't stopped me.....yet! Congratulations and enjoy!!!
#3
I usually use prewound bobbins from my LQS but I also have a spool if I need to fill bobbins myself. I get my stabilizer at Joanns, I think it might be Sulky brand. During my lesson on my machine, I think they said to use a layer of cutaway and a layer of tearaway both. It's been a few years and I don't use my 350E very much, so I'm no expert.
#4
Power Poster
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 11,276
The type of stablizer depends on the project. There are about one million different types. Wash away, tear away, cut away, different weights, sticky back, iron on, etc. it's a whole topic unto itself.
I get mine at all stitch:
http://www.allstitch.net/department/....cfm?killnav=1
If you scroll to the bottom of the page in the link, there are several articles that explain the differences. Because you are going to run an afterschool pgm, I would pick a first project that will be made with a firm woven fabric, like weavers cloth, or pre made aprons from Sam's club. A medium weight tear away will work well. I would stay away from knits at the beginning. T-Shirts can be tricky.
I get mine at all stitch:
http://www.allstitch.net/department/....cfm?killnav=1
If you scroll to the bottom of the page in the link, there are several articles that explain the differences. Because you are going to run an afterschool pgm, I would pick a first project that will be made with a firm woven fabric, like weavers cloth, or pre made aprons from Sam's club. A medium weight tear away will work well. I would stay away from knits at the beginning. T-Shirts can be tricky.
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: MS
Posts: 2,624
I use pre-wounds all the time and my Brother loves them. I have used several brands but the last ones my dealer sent me were called Exquisite but I've also used Fil-Tec. I also wind my own if I should run out of the pre-wounds. I also use either 60wt or 90wt. 90wt is thinner. I have used the black pre-wounds with no problems.
As to stabilizers, Paper Princess is correct. The fabric and the density of design determine the type of stabilizer you need. Here is another good site to learn about fabric/thread/stabilizers: www.embrlibrary.com I print out the articles and keep them in a 3 ring binder for easy reference.
One other thing that is suggested is to stitch out the design on similar fabric/stabilizer prior to doing the actual item. I know this sounds wasteful but all designs are not created equal and you wouldn't want to ruin the actual item especially if it is a one-of-a-kind purchased item. I save my stitch-outs for later use in some way. Or if it doesn't stitch out well, I make notes on what went wrong and keep the "bad" stitch-outs in plastic protectors in a 3 ring binder. Some times you have to make adjustments in the stabilizer or design itself. Of course, sometimes I "cheat" and if the design is stitching well, I don't complete the whole design. LOL
As to stabilizers, Paper Princess is correct. The fabric and the density of design determine the type of stabilizer you need. Here is another good site to learn about fabric/thread/stabilizers: www.embrlibrary.com I print out the articles and keep them in a 3 ring binder for easy reference.
One other thing that is suggested is to stitch out the design on similar fabric/stabilizer prior to doing the actual item. I know this sounds wasteful but all designs are not created equal and you wouldn't want to ruin the actual item especially if it is a one-of-a-kind purchased item. I save my stitch-outs for later use in some way. Or if it doesn't stitch out well, I make notes on what went wrong and keep the "bad" stitch-outs in plastic protectors in a 3 ring binder. Some times you have to make adjustments in the stabilizer or design itself. Of course, sometimes I "cheat" and if the design is stitching well, I don't complete the whole design. LOL
Last edited by Nanamoms; 08-14-2012 at 05:08 AM.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NE Pa.
Posts: 1,738
I was having trouble with my emb designs and called the shopwhere I bought my Janome emb machine, They told me to use Brother bobbin thread which I purchased a spool of it ($10.) and it has a lot of thread on it. Them I wound my own bobbins and have had not more trouble.
#7
Thank you for the replies.
Nanamoms, I tried this link (www.embrlibrary.com) you posted, but it does not appear to be a working site.
I think we'll get the prewound white bobbins and medium weight stabilizer to start with.
You guys are the greatest!
Nanamoms, I tried this link (www.embrlibrary.com) you posted, but it does not appear to be a working site.
I think we'll get the prewound white bobbins and medium weight stabilizer to start with.
You guys are the greatest!
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: MS
Posts: 2,624
My bad, quiltingdoe, it is www.emblibrary.com Letting my nails grow and I can't typed with them!!
Prewounds and med wt stabilizer is a good way to start!!
Prewounds and med wt stabilizer is a good way to start!!
#9
My bad, quiltingdoe, it is www.emblibrary.com Letting my nails grow and I can't typed with them!!
Prewounds and med wt stabilizer is a good way to start!!
Prewounds and med wt stabilizer is a good way to start!!
Thanks, Nanamoms, for the new link.
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