Quilt top measures
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1
Quilt top measures
My quilts are often flared on the outside edges. How do I measure the length of the quilt top in the middle and on both sides to insure the length is the same on all three places? How to I trim to insure the top is the same length in the middle and on both sides? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I once saw directions on how to do these measures but I can not find it.
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,168
There are a variety of ways to deal with stretch/flare. I'm often sewing a bit tight or scant and so my overall measurements aren't always correct as designed and in those case I really do prefer to fit the border to the existing condition. Other times, I want a strict mathematical answer and sometimes must either ease or stretch a bit of either the border or the quilt. For convenience and having short arms, I typically measure the seams or other points for a straight line about one-two blocks in, not at the edge.
If you google on "how to measure a quilt for borders" I had a number of things come up. This one is similar to how I do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhRzGr93WIo
There are also considerations on squaring your top. While we try for true right angles, sometimes projects come out more slightly kite shaped. I find for good borders you need good corners, and that is what a big square or triangle ruler does well.
If you google on "how to measure a quilt for borders" I had a number of things come up. This one is similar to how I do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhRzGr93WIo
There are also considerations on squaring your top. While we try for true right angles, sometimes projects come out more slightly kite shaped. I find for good borders you need good corners, and that is what a big square or triangle ruler does well.
#3
sounds like you are stretching your fabric on your borders maybe as you sew them on.... I measure the sides, middle and cut my borders to fit. usually the measurements are the same. But since I'm not perfect, it pays to check.
pin, pin, pin and then sew. no stretching as you go along. If your quilt doesn't lay flat or waves as you say, this is your problem.
pin, pin, pin and then sew. no stretching as you go along. If your quilt doesn't lay flat or waves as you say, this is your problem.
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 6,407
My quilts are often flared on the outside edges. How do I measure the length of the quilt top in the middle and on both sides to insure the length is the same on all three places? How to I trim to insure the top is the same length in the middle and on both sides? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I once saw directions on how to do these measures but I can not find it.
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 1,703
All the good quilters out there will tell you to take measurements at the top, middle, and bottom, just as the members above have instructed. However, I have NEVER been able to get accurate measurements. I can take the same measurement multiple times and get different numbers each time. I guess sometimes I stretch it as I measure and sometimes I don't. Regardless, I simply don't measure any more because I don't trust my measurements.
I calculate instead. I ASSUME that my quarter inch seam is accurate and all my squares are the intended size. for example, if my quilt blocks are 10" and I have 5 across and 7 down, then I assume my quilt top is 50x70. Add in your sashing measurements as needed, too, of course. I will cut my border strips to the measurements calculated. then I focus all my efforts on pinning. Lots of pins. to make sure anything is eased in appropriately (because, lets be honest, I likely do NOT have perfect blocks!).
Keep in mind....I have never entered a quilt show and I quilt for fun and function. so, take what I say with that in mind!
In general, practice good quilt handling. often times stretching and distortion happens without us knowing - when you pick it up and show it to your quilt friends, when you are bunching it up to push through the machine, etc etc.
I calculate instead. I ASSUME that my quarter inch seam is accurate and all my squares are the intended size. for example, if my quilt blocks are 10" and I have 5 across and 7 down, then I assume my quilt top is 50x70. Add in your sashing measurements as needed, too, of course. I will cut my border strips to the measurements calculated. then I focus all my efforts on pinning. Lots of pins. to make sure anything is eased in appropriately (because, lets be honest, I likely do NOT have perfect blocks!).
Keep in mind....I have never entered a quilt show and I quilt for fun and function. so, take what I say with that in mind!
In general, practice good quilt handling. often times stretching and distortion happens without us knowing - when you pick it up and show it to your quilt friends, when you are bunching it up to push through the machine, etc etc.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,563
I like how Donna Jordan does it - simple, easy, fast, no measuring, no math, and every time I do it this way the borders turn out perfect.
https://youtu.be/SE5CqpWaReA?t=386
https://youtu.be/SE5CqpWaReA?t=386
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Greater Peoria, IL -- just moved!
Posts: 6,168
Thought I'd talk a bit more about preventing flares and such instead of just the measuring part.
I'm a pinner because I believe in it. I didn't want to be a pinner, I have friends who can do all sorts of things with hardly a pin at all, but for me, pins every couple of inches every seam are the answer. Add to that, that I also press open and so every leading seam has a pin, sometimes there can be a lot of pins on a seam! If it is needed, I will mark center or other points with pins on the right side of the fabric, or pencil marks on the back. Center is easy,just fold in half to find.
Along with that, I am a prewasher and presser. I don't like ironing either, but I believe it is key to my success. If your fabric isn't ready/right and floppy and wrinkled or other issues, it isn't going to get better. When putting on borders, I'm often working at my ironing board as it is one of my larger work surfaces. Typically, if the border fabric is solid that will be pressed on to the board (right side up) and then the top placed, centers matched, and the top lightly pressed into place and then the leading edges of the seams pinned down.
I'm a pinner because I believe in it. I didn't want to be a pinner, I have friends who can do all sorts of things with hardly a pin at all, but for me, pins every couple of inches every seam are the answer. Add to that, that I also press open and so every leading seam has a pin, sometimes there can be a lot of pins on a seam! If it is needed, I will mark center or other points with pins on the right side of the fabric, or pencil marks on the back. Center is easy,just fold in half to find.
Along with that, I am a prewasher and presser. I don't like ironing either, but I believe it is key to my success. If your fabric isn't ready/right and floppy and wrinkled or other issues, it isn't going to get better. When putting on borders, I'm often working at my ironing board as it is one of my larger work surfaces. Typically, if the border fabric is solid that will be pressed on to the board (right side up) and then the top placed, centers matched, and the top lightly pressed into place and then the leading edges of the seams pinned down.
#9
I like how Donna Jordan does it - simple, easy, fast, no measuring, no math, and every time I do it this way the borders turn out perfect.
https://youtu.be/SE5CqpWaReA?t=386
https://youtu.be/SE5CqpWaReA?t=386
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: northern minnesota
Posts: 2,480
The biggest things I do to prevent the dreaded flare is to stay stitch about 1/8 of an inch around the whole inner quilt top before adding the borders (especially if they have a lot of piecing). Then I measure the lengths I need and cut my border to that, pin at both ends, then pin the middle, then add additional pins if needed. (I really don't pin every few inches). Then, I get my trusty old walking foot out and use it to make those long seams. This helps to feed both the top and bottom layers of fabric through at the same speed. If you don't use a walking foot, the layer of fabric on the bottom feeds slightly faster than the top layer as the top layer is basically just resting on the bottom layer and been pulled along by it. When I have not used my walking foot, I have found that although I started with the same length, I may have over an inch difference by the time I get to the bottom.