Row Robin 2012/2013
#291
For our row, I took all my blocks off of posts on Pinterest - if the pattern wasn't already 12.5", I resized it using my super-ninja microsoft excel skills. I can help you with that if you'd like
#292
Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Missouri and Kansas
Posts: 37
Thanks for your offer. I will remember your super nija skills w/ Excel, believe me! I have come with a plan and have been working on it so I'm good. Will keep you posted!
#293
So.....it looks like we have not heard from three (3) folks: MistyMarie, MHobbs and Areinn.
I am hoping to hear something by Monday or I will start filing in the gaps with our ladies in waiting...LOL
I am hoping to hear something by Monday or I will start filing in the gaps with our ladies in waiting...LOL
#295
Hey TheMamaHauser,
Super-ninja MS Excel skills, eh? I'll bit, how is it done? ( I love learning new things!)
TIA,
best,
d
QUOTE=TheMamaHauser;5562545]For our row, I took all my blocks off of posts on Pinterest - if the pattern wasn't already 12.5", I resized it using my super-ninja microsoft excel skills. I can help you with that if you'd like [/QUOTE]
Super-ninja MS Excel skills, eh? I'll bit, how is it done? ( I love learning new things!)
TIA,
best,
d
QUOTE=TheMamaHauser;5562545]For our row, I took all my blocks off of posts on Pinterest - if the pattern wasn't already 12.5", I resized it using my super-ninja microsoft excel skills. I can help you with that if you'd like [/QUOTE]
#296
From there, I look at the pattern to see if it will be easier to recreate using 1" increments or 1/2" increments. This technique works best with patterns that are "grid" designs - say 3x3 blocks within the overall pattern or 4x4, etc. It is the ones that aren't easily divisible (like 5x5 grids) that I tend to use the 1/2" incrementing.
I will then make a square outline of however many rows and columns I need to get to the size of the block = so for a 12.5" block, I will highlight the equivalent of 12" of rows/columns. If I have decided each row/column is 1", then I use a 12x12 grid. If I say that the row/column is 1/2", then I use a 24x24 grid. I have found sticking with either 1" or 1/2" is really ideal (you'll see why later).
From there, I use the border tool to "draw" the pattern. When I know a particular "chunk" is going to be solid, I do a merge-all to make all of the little sub-blocks into one giant block. If I have to draw a diagonal cut across a block (think a shoo-fly block, for example) I will merge the chunk and then use the manual draw-border tool to create that diagonal.
Then, when the entire design is re-created, I use the row/columns to determine what I should be cutting. This is kind of hard to keep straight at first (for me, at least). Basically, I highlight each chunk and I count the number of rows/columns that chunk requires. So, say I have a 12x12 overall grid and I have a chunk that is 3x3. I will make the cutting measurement to be 3.5" x 3.5" to factor in seam allowance.
The part that confuses me (frequently) is when I'm using the 1/2" increments - because when you count how many rows/columns, you divide by 2 and THEN add on the .5" seam allowance.
So, that's the basic breakdown of how I do it. I keep all the blocks I've resized/redesigned/created in one spreadsheet and just keep making new pages each time.
When you first start using this, I suggest making an extra mark at the center points at both the top and the bottom and on the sides (outside the grid) to help you keep track of center. If anyone is interested, I'd be happy to send a copy of my spreadsheet so you don't have to recreate the wheel. It's hard to really explain in words but it's pretty easy to understand when you're looking at it in front of you.
If you want a copy, PM me your email address and I'll send it out tomorrow after I get back from school.
#297
Excel GuRu
I thought it could be done, but I had not tried it. I would actually love to have a copy of your spreadsheet, it would be easy to use yours already set up. AND, I am assuming you will send the workbook so we would have all the blocks you have already created on it. LOL How is that for plagerism!!! [email protected]
Last edited by buslady; 10-05-2012 at 05:56 AM.
#298
You gave a pretty terrific, and lenghty, explanation of how you go about your process. Thank you. Isn't technology wonderful?
best,
d
best,
d
Well, you pull up a new spreadsheet and then you can resize the columns and rows to be equally sized squares (I generally use 50 pixel x 50 pixel).
From there, I look at the pattern to see if it will be easier to recreate using 1" increments or 1/2" increments. This technique works best with patterns that are "grid" designs - say 3x3 blocks within the overall pattern or 4x4, etc. It is the ones that aren't easily divisible (like 5x5 grids) that I tend to use the 1/2" incrementing.
I will then make a square outline of however many rows and columns I need to get to the size of the block = so for a 12.5" block, I will highlight the equivalent of 12" of rows/columns. If I have decided each row/column is 1", then I use a 12x12 grid. If I say that the row/column is 1/2", then I use a 24x24 grid. I have found sticking with either 1" or 1/2" is really ideal (you'll see why later).
From there, I use the border tool to "draw" the pattern. When I know a particular "chunk" is going to be solid, I do a merge-all to make all of the little sub-blocks into one giant block. If I have to draw a diagonal cut across a block (think a shoo-fly block, for example) I will merge the chunk and then use the manual draw-border tool to create that diagonal.
Then, when the entire design is re-created, I use the row/columns to determine what I should be cutting. This is kind of hard to keep straight at first (for me, at least). Basically, I highlight each chunk and I count the number of rows/columns that chunk requires. So, say I have a 12x12 overall grid and I have a chunk that is 3x3. I will make the cutting measurement to be 3.5" x 3.5" to factor in seam allowance.
The part that confuses me (frequently) is when I'm using the 1/2" increments - because when you count how many rows/columns, you divide by 2 and THEN add on the .5" seam allowance.
So, that's the basic breakdown of how I do it. I keep all the blocks I've resized/redesigned/created in one spreadsheet and just keep making new pages each time.
When you first start using this, I suggest making an extra mark at the center points at both the top and the bottom and on the sides (outside the grid) to help you keep track of center. If anyone is interested, I'd be happy to send a copy of my spreadsheet so you don't have to recreate the wheel. It's hard to really explain in words but it's pretty easy to understand when you're looking at it in front of you.
If you want a copy, PM me your email address and I'll send it out tomorrow after I get back from school.
From there, I look at the pattern to see if it will be easier to recreate using 1" increments or 1/2" increments. This technique works best with patterns that are "grid" designs - say 3x3 blocks within the overall pattern or 4x4, etc. It is the ones that aren't easily divisible (like 5x5 grids) that I tend to use the 1/2" incrementing.
I will then make a square outline of however many rows and columns I need to get to the size of the block = so for a 12.5" block, I will highlight the equivalent of 12" of rows/columns. If I have decided each row/column is 1", then I use a 12x12 grid. If I say that the row/column is 1/2", then I use a 24x24 grid. I have found sticking with either 1" or 1/2" is really ideal (you'll see why later).
From there, I use the border tool to "draw" the pattern. When I know a particular "chunk" is going to be solid, I do a merge-all to make all of the little sub-blocks into one giant block. If I have to draw a diagonal cut across a block (think a shoo-fly block, for example) I will merge the chunk and then use the manual draw-border tool to create that diagonal.
Then, when the entire design is re-created, I use the row/columns to determine what I should be cutting. This is kind of hard to keep straight at first (for me, at least). Basically, I highlight each chunk and I count the number of rows/columns that chunk requires. So, say I have a 12x12 overall grid and I have a chunk that is 3x3. I will make the cutting measurement to be 3.5" x 3.5" to factor in seam allowance.
The part that confuses me (frequently) is when I'm using the 1/2" increments - because when you count how many rows/columns, you divide by 2 and THEN add on the .5" seam allowance.
So, that's the basic breakdown of how I do it. I keep all the blocks I've resized/redesigned/created in one spreadsheet and just keep making new pages each time.
When you first start using this, I suggest making an extra mark at the center points at both the top and the bottom and on the sides (outside the grid) to help you keep track of center. If anyone is interested, I'd be happy to send a copy of my spreadsheet so you don't have to recreate the wheel. It's hard to really explain in words but it's pretty easy to understand when you're looking at it in front of you.
If you want a copy, PM me your email address and I'll send it out tomorrow after I get back from school.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JudyG
Member Swaps and Round/Row Robins
520
10-24-2011 04:56 AM