Brother 1351-A
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tennessee, UC area
Posts: 1,584
Brother 1351-A
[ATTACH=CONFIG]581147[/ATTACH]
It's so shiny new looking, as if it's been stored away unused. Picked up at moving sale across the street for $5. I've searched for a manual, but best I can find is a Youtube video showing how to thread. It sews beautiful stitches--only straight and reverse, and the feed dogs will drop. I guess that's enough to know. I would like to know where the oiling points are, tho.
It's so shiny new looking, as if it's been stored away unused. Picked up at moving sale across the street for $5. I've searched for a manual, but best I can find is a Youtube video showing how to thread. It sews beautiful stitches--only straight and reverse, and the feed dogs will drop. I guess that's enough to know. I would like to know where the oiling points are, tho.
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,893
I think you may need Cari's help. She's the resident Brother expert.
I suspect that the model number may have more letters or numbers than you have. I've looked through a couple of Brother Machine manual lists and did not find a 1350. It's also not in the Yahoo Japanese machine group's files.
Bkay
I suspect that the model number may have more letters or numbers than you have. I've looked through a couple of Brother Machine manual lists and did not find a 1350. It's also not in the Yahoo Japanese machine group's files.
Bkay
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
You can safely assume all the holes on top are oil points, there are a few in connection with the bobbin winder, and sometimes there's one for the axle holding the hand wheel and stop motion screw. Sometimes the hand wheel needs to come off for oiling, especially machines comming out of long term storage. If there's a lid in the back, investigate parts there, all joints, gears, hinges, metal parts moving against each other needs a few drops of oil (assuming it's very dry). The same from behind the face plate and under the base; have the stitch lenth lever on maxium length, turn the hand wheel and oil end of rods. I'm sure you are onto it already. These models are often very close, and by searchin up model 15 clones you might find exactly your model under various names.
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Western NY
Posts: 57
Here's a link to a generic manual for a class 15 straight stitch machine: http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_mach...ion-manual.pdf.
That's a great-looking machine, by the way.
That's a great-looking machine, by the way.
#7
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
That's a real beauty! I don't have this model(yet!) but I do have a similar Brother straight stitch machine. An HA1 manual might work, I'm not sure if this one has the same type of upper tension assembly or the one that's just a hair different in the threading of the upper tension. But it looks like you got that covered. Mickey pretty much nailed it on the oiling. I don't think I can add anything useful.
Cari
Cari
#9
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
Cari
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tennessee, UC area
Posts: 1,584
You can safely assume all the holes on top are oil points, there are a few in connection with the bobbin winder, and sometimes there's one for the axle holding the hand wheel and stop motion screw. Sometimes the hand wheel needs to come off for oiling, especially machines comming out of long term storage. If there's a lid in the back, investigate parts there, all joints, gears, hinges, metal parts moving against each other needs a few drops of oil (assuming it's very dry). The same from behind the face plate and under the base; have the stitch lenth lever on maxium length, turn the hand wheel and oil end of rods. I'm sure you are onto it already. These models are often very close, and by searchin up model 15 clones you might find exactly your model under various names.
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