White 1563--sticky foot pedal, or motor issue?
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 911
I've been working pic's to show you whats going on, it's to late LOL therean easy fix, take less time than the drive to ye ol repair person ..
the slot
the screw driver in the slot
tweak and bingo..
some do have screws
ok inside, there maybe mounting screws on the corners or this one is under the wiper arm.. it's easier to remove the block from the housing ...
you see springs and the reviets, that wiper must touch each reviet as it pasts over ,, each one contorls a different speed, clean those and under the wiper ...
next at each reveit and on both side you'll see a hook that attaches the spring, remove the springs end and clean those, should a spring be screwed up on the end strecth it to fit and cut off the old end. if it's burnt in half you can use any spring thats even close to that size,, worst case cut the weak section of spring out twist there end together and install,,, put it all back together less the cover ,, hold upside down plugged in and power up the motor.
look for glowing at the hooks, sparks. SMOKE and do this a few minutes to feel for heat on the housing ,,it should not even get warm you get any of those, you still have a dirty contact at the hooks,,,
by doing this you'll get the picture on how these pedals work ,, should that block be broken glue it back together ...
don't worry your not going to get shocked,,,, I would not spill beer in it or stick my tounge on the brass contact,,, if you have a multi meter that will do Ac current you can use that to test it
you will be taking it apart and back together about 3 x's to get it right ..
these are two different pedals ,, this one shows how the reviets get so woren they will have to be silver solder and filed smooth,, the reviet closest to the wiper is all but gone, the next two are very bad,, this pedal works on the top half of it's speed control.
the other pic's are all the same pedal, it worked much like yours, the problem was at teh hooks plus someone in the past did there fix and streched the hell of there springs all at the end
yes spring lenght matters in a perfect world.... 90% of the time you are going to get some humming at a slow start up.. play with it and it will work ......................... better LOL
the slot
the screw driver in the slot
tweak and bingo..
some do have screws
ok inside, there maybe mounting screws on the corners or this one is under the wiper arm.. it's easier to remove the block from the housing ...
you see springs and the reviets, that wiper must touch each reviet as it pasts over ,, each one contorls a different speed, clean those and under the wiper ...
next at each reveit and on both side you'll see a hook that attaches the spring, remove the springs end and clean those, should a spring be screwed up on the end strecth it to fit and cut off the old end. if it's burnt in half you can use any spring thats even close to that size,, worst case cut the weak section of spring out twist there end together and install,,, put it all back together less the cover ,, hold upside down plugged in and power up the motor.
look for glowing at the hooks, sparks. SMOKE and do this a few minutes to feel for heat on the housing ,,it should not even get warm you get any of those, you still have a dirty contact at the hooks,,,
by doing this you'll get the picture on how these pedals work ,, should that block be broken glue it back together ...
don't worry your not going to get shocked,,,, I would not spill beer in it or stick my tounge on the brass contact,,, if you have a multi meter that will do Ac current you can use that to test it
you will be taking it apart and back together about 3 x's to get it right ..
these are two different pedals ,, this one shows how the reviets get so woren they will have to be silver solder and filed smooth,, the reviet closest to the wiper is all but gone, the next two are very bad,, this pedal works on the top half of it's speed control.
the other pic's are all the same pedal, it worked much like yours, the problem was at teh hooks plus someone in the past did there fix and streched the hell of there springs all at the end
yes spring lenght matters in a perfect world.... 90% of the time you are going to get some humming at a slow start up.. play with it and it will work ......................... better LOL
Last edited by xxxxxxxxxx; 06-17-2012 at 06:56 PM.
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 1,775
Thanks so much for the pictures and the directions on how to do this. In the last picture everything looks so clean. What do you use to clean the brass rivets? Also I notice that the rivets in the two upper corners are missing in the last pic. Where did they go?
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 911
I use a 800 grit wet/dry sand paper, if there super black and green then a heavy paper then polish with the fine,, use no oil.. 400 to 800 paper you can find at most any building hardware store , thats the black type paper , also I use that to clean and polish the machine heads yep right over the decals,, but kept it WET.. Thats known as color sanding same as done on custom paint on fine cars.. thats why they shine so much ..
#25
I need a foot pedal as mine is missing on machine I purchased. And no cams. Where can I get these. ? I also have same question. I see the original pedal is same turquoise color . Where ones to purchase are black and range in prices
#26
Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 23
If you got it from a thrift store, go back and look around. Sometimes thrift stores sell the accessories separately putting them in a glass case. Sometimes the pedal gets separated and is with electronics, or they took the machine out of a table and the pedal is still in the table. Otherwise, you can check with thrift stores and see what they have, or ask the seller...
You can buy a pedal from sew classic or maybe a local sewing machine repairman. The question will be the type of power going to the motor, if a kenmore type plug or a special plug box. Because you want to make sure your motor works before you buy, as the pedal and motor cost more separately.
Cams easiest on an auction site, but you need to know what they look like as sellers often have no.clue.
You can buy a pedal from sew classic or maybe a local sewing machine repairman. The question will be the type of power going to the motor, if a kenmore type plug or a special plug box. Because you want to make sure your motor works before you buy, as the pedal and motor cost more separately.
Cams easiest on an auction site, but you need to know what they look like as sellers often have no.clue.
Last edited by annf; 01-26-2016 at 07:00 PM. Reason: Evil autocorrect
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Spring Hill, Tennesee
Posts: 497
It is probably the foot controller like xxxxxxxxx said. He called it a "wiper", because a brass arm moves across contacts fastened to Nichrome wires. The longer the circuit, the faster it runs. There may be broken wires. I have one just like that. It can't be repaired by most. Too expensive for what you're left with. The new solid state controllers are so much better and under $20 at Sew-Classic.com. I am replacing all of mine. They won't get hot or potentially cause a fire, shock or other. There is a do-it-your-self tutorial on their website. They are also 1/3 the weight of the old, clunky, ones.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Spring Hill, Tennesee
Posts: 497
The only cam you probably will want then is the zig zag, also available at Sew-Classic.com. You can always ad cams later, if you decide to venture out. They are readily available in sets on Ebay at fairly reasonable cost, or advertise on QB's "wanted" section.
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