manicmike

Hi Zozee. These machines are so solid that they almost never need adjusting, so seeing that you've never got it working, I need to ask a really fundamental question. Please don't feel offended by this: I'm not calling you stupid.
What is its serial number? Threading the wrong way is what all of us would suspect first (which is obvious by the responses) so I'm wanting to check the exact model beyond any doubt. Right to left threading is rare and is the case only with a few Singer models.
You could also post a picture of your lovely machine.

singerguy

its flat side to the right. And thread is left to right.

manicmike

Incorrect. Please read the whole thread

singerguy

darn. my mistake. all this time i was thinking it is a 66. my apologies. thanks manicmike.

manicmike

No worries. I'd actually thought you'd assumed (as I did) that all 15s are the same. Every single one I've ever had has been left to right, but I've never had a 15-88 to -91. All other models are left-right like the 66 (and 99, 27, 28 etc etc) or front to back (206, 306, 319, 320, 400 series and more).
It's one of those things we learn by experience but there's no easily found definitive list. Here's what I have so far:
Singer models that thread R --> L: 15-88, 15-89, 15-90, 15-91, 201, 221, 222
My new (!) Improved Family or 15-1 is left to right.

miriam

I made a new thread:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post6807705

manicmike

Just occurred to me what clever sewing types we are, actually making threads

Thanks Miriam. Just linked to it from the resources thread.

miriam

Thanks. It seems like a lot of people struggle with which way that needle goes and which way to thread it. I wasn't sleeping anyway.

singerguy

another reason might be a dull needle. make sure that you're using a new needle.

if not try this (will require a little more work) saw this on another forum. might be helpful.

remove the bobbin case and bobbin., turn the machine so you can see the needle as it enters the area where you removed the bobbin case. (for clarity, this area is commonly called the hook and race area) as you turn the handwheel, you will see a curved or semi-circular piece turning towards the needle. This part, called the hook will have a point on it which should pass behind the needle approx. 1.5 to 3.0 mm above the eye of the needle. If this is not the case then either the needle-bar or the hook are out of timing. This applies to all sewing machines of any make or model. This can be a simple repair if the needle-bar is too high or too low, but more difficult if the hook is incorrectly timed.

manicmike

Have to say I never considered this because I've never heard of a 15s hook timing go off.
They're so solid I think you'd have to push a block of solid steel under the needlebar while running it at full speed.
Not to say that someone hasn't done it, but it would be a first for me!