1930 German Singer
#22
It's not like the original though. Mine is in English
#23
#24
The two needles are almost identical, the only difference being that the 15x1 has a longer tip after the thread hole. It's this tip that hits the bobbin case during ZZ (this has been discussed quite a bit on this forum).
Last edited by manicmike; 11-17-2014 at 06:33 PM.
#25
Thanks very much! I did find the manual online. It's been raining so hard here that we haven't been able to get the machine out of the car. Thanks, again!
#26
Found the site with Wittenberg serial numbers again: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/sin...er_1letter.htm
#27
Found the site with Wittenberg serial numbers again: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/sin...er_1letter.htm
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tippy-top of a ridge in WV
Posts: 6,355
Anyone know where I can find a Featherweight manual? After using my old one for about 6 yrs and never a problem, I took it to a guild sew-in last Sat. and the only thing different I did was to change the top thread spool. It absolutely would not sew right, keeps bunching up on the bottom thread. I checked the bobbin, changed the needle checked the threading path. No good. Came home and got out a newer FW, checked everything against the newer one, all the same. Newer one sewed like a champ. What on earth happened? I had just used her three days before the sew-in. I sew crazy foundation blocks on her when the mood strikes. I am totally at a loss to figure this one out.
#29
Anyone know where I can find a Featherweight manual? After using my old one for about 6 yrs and never a problem, I took it to a guild sew-in last Sat. and the only thing different I did was to change the top thread spool. It absolutely would not sew right, keeps bunching up on the bottom thread. I checked the bobbin, changed the needle checked the threading path.
I had the same thing happen with the thread on my 201 the other day and it was just that the top tension was too loose. Put it up to 8 and it was just fine. When I'm feeling ambitious, I'll take out the bobbin case and lower the bobbin tension. I don't like having the top tension so high - doesn't leave much room for adjustment.
#30
Update on Singer 206
I've put in about 7 hours on this machine today.
First, I'm thankful that you encouraged me to buy this. Here's the original ad, which is still up: http://catskills.craigslist.org/atq/4727888381.html. The only reason I went to see it was because I couldn't figure out the parts it showed on the back and just was curious.
Second, I kept thinking as I cleaned this 84 year old machine that it's a good thing WWII wasn't waged with sewing machines - not sure the Allies would have won.
I still have questions. It's a 220 v motor, and needs to be rewired anyway, so looking for advice. Find a motor from the U.S. and just store the original? Put in a 220 line for it? Other ideas? Oh, and although it's set up for a knee lever, the lever is missing. Hmm, that's another question - if I put on a 110 v motor, would I need to change the controller?
The finish on this is spectacular. I used cotton and oil, no polish or wax at all, except on the edge of the wheel - used Simachrome on that. None of my other machines ever had this kind of shine.
Oh, and I reassembled the tension with everything in the right order and it works. It's still hard to turn the wheel by hand, but it does stitch.
Here's the original CL photo and one taken today. Yay!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]499775[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]499776[/ATTACH]
I've put in about 7 hours on this machine today.
First, I'm thankful that you encouraged me to buy this. Here's the original ad, which is still up: http://catskills.craigslist.org/atq/4727888381.html. The only reason I went to see it was because I couldn't figure out the parts it showed on the back and just was curious.
Second, I kept thinking as I cleaned this 84 year old machine that it's a good thing WWII wasn't waged with sewing machines - not sure the Allies would have won.
I still have questions. It's a 220 v motor, and needs to be rewired anyway, so looking for advice. Find a motor from the U.S. and just store the original? Put in a 220 line for it? Other ideas? Oh, and although it's set up for a knee lever, the lever is missing. Hmm, that's another question - if I put on a 110 v motor, would I need to change the controller?
The finish on this is spectacular. I used cotton and oil, no polish or wax at all, except on the edge of the wheel - used Simachrome on that. None of my other machines ever had this kind of shine.
Oh, and I reassembled the tension with everything in the right order and it works. It's still hard to turn the wheel by hand, but it does stitch.
Here's the original CL photo and one taken today. Yay!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]499775[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]499776[/ATTACH]
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