201 tension problems
03-18-2014, 10:14 AM
#51
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
This is my mistake, I should have started you at the beginning of "timing". From my page here:
http://www.archaicarcane.com/excuse-...have-the-time/
Timing is not really about that mark on the needlebar. It's a helpful reference only. In fact many machines don't even have them. All of the Singer's I've seen do though.
When we talk about the hook point, that's the sharp point that moves around in the bobbin case. THIS is the most important part of timing. The hook is the magic behind a sewing machine making a stitch.
The problem with most service manuals it that they assume a certain amount of previous understanding. Like a service Manual for a car, it might not detail all the steps and it certainly doesn't cover the why because it's assumed that the person using the service manual has previous training. I want to give you the training that will make that manual make sense.
OK, Step 1: take off the throat plate, remove the presser foot.
While you do that, I'm going to hobble downstairs and try to take a couple of photos for you.
Before I forget though, I must say thank you SO MUCH for the clear photos!! I've been receiving an obscene number of blurry photos that I've been trying to interpret lately in preparation for the class I'm giving next month. Some of them, I haven't been sure they were sewing machines!
http://www.archaicarcane.com/excuse-...have-the-time/
- In order for the stitch to be formed correctly, the needle must provide the thread “in time” for the hook to grab it.
- Or put another way: the hook must be in the right position “in time” to grab the thread when the needle is down.
- Additionally, the feed dogs need to be “in time” with this whole process, in order to not pull on the fabric while the needle is still inside it.
When we talk about the hook point, that's the sharp point that moves around in the bobbin case. THIS is the most important part of timing. The hook is the magic behind a sewing machine making a stitch.
The problem with most service manuals it that they assume a certain amount of previous understanding. Like a service Manual for a car, it might not detail all the steps and it certainly doesn't cover the why because it's assumed that the person using the service manual has previous training. I want to give you the training that will make that manual make sense.
OK, Step 1: take off the throat plate, remove the presser foot.
While you do that, I'm going to hobble downstairs and try to take a couple of photos for you.
Before I forget though, I must say thank you SO MUCH for the clear photos!! I've been receiving an obscene number of blurry photos that I've been trying to interpret lately in preparation for the class I'm giving next month. Some of them, I haven't been sure they were sewing machines!
03-18-2014, 12:10 PM
#54
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
Yeah, the throat plate on this one sort of sucks. The screws are in exactly the wrong spot. I'm drafting your photo filled reply right now. Uh... I guess the shark thing... I know they bite me from time to time.
Uh... I guess the shark thing... I know they bite me from time to time.
03-18-2014, 12:24 PM
#55
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
OK first: Tension
I will post an expanded version of this on my blog in the net day or so, but here's the quick and dirty:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467846[/ATTACH]
This is where the spring should be sitting.
Currently, if you were to push that spring off the thread catch at 10 -11 o'clock and past the ledge at 9'oclock and past that pesky screw that sticks out... I don't think your spring would drop to about this position:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467847[/ATTACH]
This is where it should sit before final assembly when you push it up to that ledge at 9'oclock. That spring being up as high as it is will cause really weird tension issues, and -could- cause skipped stitches.
Also, a good rule of thumb for the setting of the tension: As a baseline, most of my machines have the knurled knob flush with the post at about 3. If yours isn't, push the numbered dial in, and turn the knurled knob left or right until it's about there. This should give you a ballpark starting point.
Do this after you set the takeup spring correctly.
K, now timing
At the point you show in your photo, the needle will be at its lowest position, or very very close to it.
This is where the hook will be:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467851[/ATTACH]
As you turn the handwheel toward you, the needle will start to rise from here, roughly 3/32" and coincidentally
will bring that second line on the needlebar into place beside the indicator. At the same time, the tip of the hook will be pointing to the center of the needle, and the eye of the needle will be about 1/64" below the hook.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467852[/ATTACH]
Here's what it looks like with the bobbin retainer removed. Red Arrow - Hook Tip, Blue Arrow - Eye of the needle. The hook tip did move a tiny bit when I removed the retainer, it should be a tiny smidge to the left in line with the middle of the needle, like in the photo above:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467853[/ATTACH]
There's also a video uploading and processing that will be here eventually, if you feel like listening to me babble (more) about it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lT98wbDLVco
I will post an expanded version of this on my blog in the net day or so, but here's the quick and dirty:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467846[/ATTACH]
This is where the spring should be sitting.
Currently, if you were to push that spring off the thread catch at 10 -11 o'clock and past the ledge at 9'oclock and past that pesky screw that sticks out... I don't think your spring would drop to about this position:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467847[/ATTACH]
This is where it should sit before final assembly when you push it up to that ledge at 9'oclock. That spring being up as high as it is will cause really weird tension issues, and -could- cause skipped stitches.
Also, a good rule of thumb for the setting of the tension: As a baseline, most of my machines have the knurled knob flush with the post at about 3. If yours isn't, push the numbered dial in, and turn the knurled knob left or right until it's about there. This should give you a ballpark starting point.
Do this after you set the takeup spring correctly.
K, now timing
At the point you show in your photo, the needle will be at its lowest position, or very very close to it.
This is where the hook will be:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467851[/ATTACH]
As you turn the handwheel toward you, the needle will start to rise from here, roughly 3/32" and coincidentally
will bring that second line on the needlebar into place beside the indicator. At the same time, the tip of the hook will be pointing to the center of the needle, and the eye of the needle will be about 1/64" below the hook.[ATTACH=CONFIG]467852[/ATTACH]
Here's what it looks like with the bobbin retainer removed. Red Arrow - Hook Tip, Blue Arrow - Eye of the needle. The hook tip did move a tiny bit when I removed the retainer, it should be a tiny smidge to the left in line with the middle of the needle, like in the photo above:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]467853[/ATTACH]
There's also a video uploading and processing that will be here eventually, if you feel like listening to me babble (more) about it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lT98wbDLVco
03-18-2014, 12:31 PM
#56
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,079
I'll look at all this in a while. My kids are home now and homework crazy time has started. I have fog brain today too just normal stuff. Everyone should pull up a chair and watch, we're going to be a fun pair.
03-18-2014, 12:38 PM
#57
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
Ahh! Shark fin on Rain's blog. OK, that's a positioning finger for the bobbin case. The hook is a little different, see my other post above.
I'm just hoping that opiod haze isn't making me spout alphabet soup!
I'm just hoping that opiod haze isn't making me spout alphabet soup!
03-18-2014, 12:51 PM
#59
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Not Here
Posts: 3,817
Thanks Miriam! This is great prep for my class next month.
I should mention that the reason the machine didn't make a stitch in the video is that the thread wasn't "prepared" right - normally when you draw the bobbin thread up through the needle plate, that will position it correctly, and the needle thread wasn't strictly controlled properly like it would have been with the needle plate in place. There was a little too much party and not enough work going on in that bobbin area
I should mention that the reason the machine didn't make a stitch in the video is that the thread wasn't "prepared" right - normally when you draw the bobbin thread up through the needle plate, that will position it correctly, and the needle thread wasn't strictly controlled properly like it would have been with the needle plate in place. There was a little too much party and not enough work going on in that bobbin area
03-18-2014, 12:56 PM
#60
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
flawhoopi
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
6
12-22-2013 11:29 PM
Carol34446
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
1
09-16-2013 10:53 AM
