Anyone use transmission fluid?
#1
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Location: NY, USA. Originally Birmingham, UK
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Hi, new member here, loving all the great info!
I have recently acquired three vintage sewing machines;
Kenmore 158.840 (aka model 84)
Gimbels-branded Japanese zigzag
Singer 347
I bought the Kenmore and the Gimbels from a thrift store for $10 and $15 respecively. I bought the Gimbels for the cabinet, and modified it to house the Kenmore.
A few days later, I found the Singer (in cabinet) at the side of the road on garbage night. I screeched to a halt and dumped it in the back of my station wagon![Big Grin](https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/biggrin.png)
Anyway, my post is about transmission fluid as a lubricant.
Transmission fluid is a light-weight mineral oil with additives.
The additives that I am interested in are the anti-oxidants, the friction modifiers and the detergents.
Regular sewing machine oil is just plain mineral oil, just like the base oil of the transmission fluid.
Regular mineral oil oxidises over time, forming a varnish-like film that gums up mechanisms.
The antioxidant additives in transmission fluid are formulated specifically to prevent this from happening.
The detergent package in ATF is designed to remove gunk and varnish from steel and keep it in solution.
The friction modifiers provide additional boundary lubrication, preventing metal-on-metal contact, ie they enhance the wear-reducing properties of the oil.
In my opinion, this makes ATF the perfect sewing machine lubricant.
I used it generously on all three of my machines.
Before application of ATF, the Kenmore moved, but was so stiff that the belt was slipping. The other two were locked up solid.
After a day or two of sitting after application of ATF, all three machines turned effortlessly and ran quietly.
Swabbing the lubricated areas with q-tips revealed that the ATF had dissolved the years of grime and had turned black as a result.
Over the next few days, I ran the machines for a few seconds, swabbed off all of the black gunk that I could reach, then reapplied ATF.
The oil now swabs off clean, and the machines run beautifully.
I believe that sewing machine oil is the cause of these frozen old machines, and will never use it on mine.
The only disadvantage of ATF is that it is red, but I was careful to wipe it away from surfaces that could come into contact with the fabric, and have not so far noticed any red marks on fabric that I have sewn.
The other alternative is Tri-Flow, but I have reservations about that.
I am concerned that the solid PTFE could accumulate over time, and could cause problems in years to come.
I have an unpleasant feeling that forums in the future will be full of posts asking how to clean old Tri-Flow off vintage machines!
I have recently acquired three vintage sewing machines;
Kenmore 158.840 (aka model 84)
Gimbels-branded Japanese zigzag
Singer 347
I bought the Kenmore and the Gimbels from a thrift store for $10 and $15 respecively. I bought the Gimbels for the cabinet, and modified it to house the Kenmore.
A few days later, I found the Singer (in cabinet) at the side of the road on garbage night. I screeched to a halt and dumped it in the back of my station wagon
![Big Grin](https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/biggrin.png)
Anyway, my post is about transmission fluid as a lubricant.
Transmission fluid is a light-weight mineral oil with additives.
The additives that I am interested in are the anti-oxidants, the friction modifiers and the detergents.
Regular sewing machine oil is just plain mineral oil, just like the base oil of the transmission fluid.
Regular mineral oil oxidises over time, forming a varnish-like film that gums up mechanisms.
The antioxidant additives in transmission fluid are formulated specifically to prevent this from happening.
The detergent package in ATF is designed to remove gunk and varnish from steel and keep it in solution.
The friction modifiers provide additional boundary lubrication, preventing metal-on-metal contact, ie they enhance the wear-reducing properties of the oil.
In my opinion, this makes ATF the perfect sewing machine lubricant.
I used it generously on all three of my machines.
Before application of ATF, the Kenmore moved, but was so stiff that the belt was slipping. The other two were locked up solid.
After a day or two of sitting after application of ATF, all three machines turned effortlessly and ran quietly.
Swabbing the lubricated areas with q-tips revealed that the ATF had dissolved the years of grime and had turned black as a result.
Over the next few days, I ran the machines for a few seconds, swabbed off all of the black gunk that I could reach, then reapplied ATF.
The oil now swabs off clean, and the machines run beautifully.
I believe that sewing machine oil is the cause of these frozen old machines, and will never use it on mine.
The only disadvantage of ATF is that it is red, but I was careful to wipe it away from surfaces that could come into contact with the fabric, and have not so far noticed any red marks on fabric that I have sewn.
The other alternative is Tri-Flow, but I have reservations about that.
I am concerned that the solid PTFE could accumulate over time, and could cause problems in years to come.
I have an unpleasant feeling that forums in the future will be full of posts asking how to clean old Tri-Flow off vintage machines!
Last edited by Jamesbeat; 06-05-2014 at 09:20 AM.
#2
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Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
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ATF is not something that I would make use of in general. It's effects on decals is not nice. It might be useful as a cleaning solvent.
OLD oil is bad, on that we can agree. However, unless your intent is to clean and long term store without use, I see no issues with SM Oil. It is the dried oil and oil/gunk in the nooks and crannies which is the issue. Dried Oil (Varnish) is sticky hence the "stuck" machines.
I cannot see how PTFE(Teflon) "residue" will be an issue in times to come. Unlike Varnish the Teflon, even when dry, is a lubricant. Alcohol works great for removing the PTFE FYI.
I do have an old mostly worthless stuck machine that I will try the ATF on to see what I can learn from that.
Thanks for the alternate view
OLD oil is bad, on that we can agree. However, unless your intent is to clean and long term store without use, I see no issues with SM Oil. It is the dried oil and oil/gunk in the nooks and crannies which is the issue. Dried Oil (Varnish) is sticky hence the "stuck" machines.
I cannot see how PTFE(Teflon) "residue" will be an issue in times to come. Unlike Varnish the Teflon, even when dry, is a lubricant. Alcohol works great for removing the PTFE FYI.
I do have an old mostly worthless stuck machine that I will try the ATF on to see what I can learn from that.
Thanks for the alternate view
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: NY, USA. Originally Birmingham, UK
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Yes, that is a good point about decals (and Japanned or shellac finishes) on older machines.
None of my machines have any of those things, so not a problem for me.
I have wiped it over all external surfaces on my machines to clean them, and it didn't damage the paint or plastic parts.
The trick seems to be time. On your stuck machine, I'd advise liberally lubing the moving parts with ATF and then leaving it to soak for a day or two.
Might take a couple of tries, but I bet it would work.
Adding acetone to ATF makes the best penetrating lube I have ever used, but the acetone might not be a good idea on a sewing machine because of the risk of damaging the finish.
None of my machines have any of those things, so not a problem for me.
I have wiped it over all external surfaces on my machines to clean them, and it didn't damage the paint or plastic parts.
The trick seems to be time. On your stuck machine, I'd advise liberally lubing the moving parts with ATF and then leaving it to soak for a day or two.
Might take a couple of tries, but I bet it would work.
Adding acetone to ATF makes the best penetrating lube I have ever used, but the acetone might not be a good idea on a sewing machine because of the risk of damaging the finish.
#5
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Kriol is some AMAZING stuff....
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Maybe test it on an inconspicuous area first.
I read an article where the ATF/acetone mix beat Kroil and several other penetrants hands down, but of course I can't find it now!
Edit: Found it!
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182271
Last edited by Jamesbeat; 06-05-2014 at 12:21 PM.
#7
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Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
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I've read that the ATF/acetone mix is about the best penetrating oil out there too but I do have reservations about it's effects on the japanned machines and decals. I'd try it on a junker machine first before using it on something I cared about.
Rodney
Rodney
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ATF is great in transmissions where heat, friction, and hydraulics are in need of a quality oil. The thing is, sewing machines are not transmissions and do not function like transmissions.
The clear oil used as sewing machine oil is designed to work in sewing machines and does that very well. Any machine that sits for any lengthy period of time should be oiled before use as the oil, any type, will run off or evaporate. Some faster than others, but it does dry out.
I have used ATF as a cleaner in really stubborn machines, but when finished I cleaned it out and re-oiled the machine with Tri-Flow and never looked back.
I make suggestions as to what oils / greases to use based on my experience, but I know people will use what ever they want. I suggest Tri-Flow.
Joe
The clear oil used as sewing machine oil is designed to work in sewing machines and does that very well. Any machine that sits for any lengthy period of time should be oiled before use as the oil, any type, will run off or evaporate. Some faster than others, but it does dry out.
I have used ATF as a cleaner in really stubborn machines, but when finished I cleaned it out and re-oiled the machine with Tri-Flow and never looked back.
I make suggestions as to what oils / greases to use based on my experience, but I know people will use what ever they want. I suggest Tri-Flow.
Joe
#9
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Rodney,
Keep the acetone away from the older machines. Acetone will destroy the shellac, remember it's alcohol based and acetone is a stronger solvent than alcohol.
I've used that combination and it does work, but it's not really as good as the legends say it is.
Joe
Keep the acetone away from the older machines. Acetone will destroy the shellac, remember it's alcohol based and acetone is a stronger solvent than alcohol.
I've used that combination and it does work, but it's not really as good as the legends say it is.
Joe
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