Binding Foot for thick layers?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
Binding Foot for thick layers?
Hi again everyone! First, thanks so much for all the help with my Singer 301 which I received with a broken part. She's now set up in her cabinet and running beautifully!
I'm now playing gleefully with the attachments (she came with two boxes of them - part of why I bid on this particular machine).
I quilt, but also make musical instrument accessories to sell. The most dreaded part of any instrument case is attaching the bias binding to the internal seams at the very end. It's a NIGHTMARE! I've tried doing it the 2-step way and the 1-step. Luckily, it's a bit forgiving because once the case (which is semi-rigid) is flipped right-side out again, these seams are a bit recessed and hidden (what with all that stabilized fabric, foam, etc... in the gusset and main panels). But, I'm a perfectionist so I'd like to get it perfect!
My question is about the vintage bias binding foot that came with my machine (and was standard for all of these machines, I believe). I haven't been able to figure out a way to use it for my purposes yet as the layers that I have to fold the binding tape around are VERY thick. The two main layers of fabric (the main panel and the gusset) are stabilized with the absolute heaviest craft stabilizer/interfacing so that it's cardboard-thick. The lining is Kona cotton interfaced with light fusible, so not too thick, but still - two layers of that.
Is there some kind of trick, by chance, to get these through the binder so that I can use that attachment? Or, if not, any ideas on another attachment (such as a hemmer- I have 10 of them!) that might work in a pinch? Obviously another foot wouldn't feed the bias tape through, but anything that could just help to hold everything flush to the right would be fantastic! My biggest issue is with the slippery tape sliding off and, before I know it, I end up sewing the bias binding tape to itself - no raw seams in the middle - and have to rip it out. So frustrating but so common because of the many curves in these cases (especially the ukulele cases - so small and curvy!).
Any tips at all (not just related to the vintage attachments) would be much appreciated!
I'm now playing gleefully with the attachments (she came with two boxes of them - part of why I bid on this particular machine).
I quilt, but also make musical instrument accessories to sell. The most dreaded part of any instrument case is attaching the bias binding to the internal seams at the very end. It's a NIGHTMARE! I've tried doing it the 2-step way and the 1-step. Luckily, it's a bit forgiving because once the case (which is semi-rigid) is flipped right-side out again, these seams are a bit recessed and hidden (what with all that stabilized fabric, foam, etc... in the gusset and main panels). But, I'm a perfectionist so I'd like to get it perfect!
My question is about the vintage bias binding foot that came with my machine (and was standard for all of these machines, I believe). I haven't been able to figure out a way to use it for my purposes yet as the layers that I have to fold the binding tape around are VERY thick. The two main layers of fabric (the main panel and the gusset) are stabilized with the absolute heaviest craft stabilizer/interfacing so that it's cardboard-thick. The lining is Kona cotton interfaced with light fusible, so not too thick, but still - two layers of that.
Is there some kind of trick, by chance, to get these through the binder so that I can use that attachment? Or, if not, any ideas on another attachment (such as a hemmer- I have 10 of them!) that might work in a pinch? Obviously another foot wouldn't feed the bias tape through, but anything that could just help to hold everything flush to the right would be fantastic! My biggest issue is with the slippery tape sliding off and, before I know it, I end up sewing the bias binding tape to itself - no raw seams in the middle - and have to rip it out. So frustrating but so common because of the many curves in these cases (especially the ukulele cases - so small and curvy!).
Any tips at all (not just related to the vintage attachments) would be much appreciated!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 459
I bought this for my vintage Bernina:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAPAN-SUISEI...item5af2bbd732
As long as there is two hole right to the needle, it will fit.
It`s not cheap, but it`s very high quality and well made: you can keep it attached and move it away when you don't need it. I have attached "utility" quilt binding with it, biais tape on garnement, etc. Love, love this tool.
I have tried the "binding foot" that was coming with my Bernina 730; I was curious to see if it would work. Nope. Wasn't able to do anything with it :-)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAPAN-SUISEI...item5af2bbd732
As long as there is two hole right to the needle, it will fit.
It`s not cheap, but it`s very high quality and well made: you can keep it attached and move it away when you don't need it. I have attached "utility" quilt binding with it, biais tape on garnement, etc. Love, love this tool.
I have tried the "binding foot" that was coming with my Bernina 730; I was curious to see if it would work. Nope. Wasn't able to do anything with it :-)
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
I bought this for my vintage Bernina:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAPAN-SUISEI...item5af2bbd732
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAPAN-SUISEI...item5af2bbd732
Thank you!!! :-)
#4
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24mm-BIAS-BI...item27c2934088
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 459
I did the same research and yes, it's the one. As you can see from the picture, there is two screws on the left that allow the adjustment of how near of the needle you want the binding tool to arrive. It should be ok for a slant shank. But you could ask the seller directly (bought several notions from him, he is nice).
For me also it was so worth it... I hated to put binding so much that I was always looking for another way to finish many project. Now, I'm putting binding everywhere :-)
For me also it was so worth it... I hated to put binding so much that I was always looking for another way to finish many project. Now, I'm putting binding everywhere :-)
#6
Like profannie says, this attachment attaches to the BED of the machine, not the foot. So you have to make sure you have screw holes in your bed (like where the seam guide would attach.)
My husband has been learning how to sew, and making gun and accessory cases - and he is also dealing with putting binding on layers and curves. This might be something that would be a good tool for him too.
My husband has been learning how to sew, and making gun and accessory cases - and he is also dealing with putting binding on layers and curves. This might be something that would be a good tool for him too.
#7
Here is another attachment. I have a similar one made in China. It works. This one looks like it would work better.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24mm-BIAS-BI...item27c2934088
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24mm-BIAS-BI...item27c2934088
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 459
Ron's attachement is cheaper but seems to work the same way; the main difference is mine have an articulated "arm" that allow to put the binding tool away if you want to sew. It`s convenient if you are doing several sewing tasks with the same sewing machine and don't want to screw/unscrew it each time. I must admit I'm very lazy ;-)
The result if very nice; waaaay better of what I can achieve when I'm trying to bind the old fashion way.
The result if very nice; waaaay better of what I can achieve when I'm trying to bind the old fashion way.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
You folks are great!
Thanks everyone- so much! And now I see what you mean about the attachment going on the bed of the machine- that's great (particularly since I see that I do indeed have those two screw holes!).
So, no worries about slant shank, low shank, high shank, etc...
Can't wait to try one of these! And Macybaby- I'm sure your husband is suffering as much as me in that case! It's a bear to get the binding on there, especially where the layers get even thicker (where straps are attached or the zipper from pockets, etc...). My 301 really powers through the layers though so now it's more an issue of maneuvering and keeping everything in position since pins are impossible right where they would be most useful!
So, no worries about slant shank, low shank, high shank, etc...
Can't wait to try one of these! And Macybaby- I'm sure your husband is suffering as much as me in that case! It's a bear to get the binding on there, especially where the layers get even thicker (where straps are attached or the zipper from pockets, etc...). My 301 really powers through the layers though so now it's more an issue of maneuvering and keeping everything in position since pins are impossible right where they would be most useful!
Like profannie says, this attachment attaches to the BED of the machine, not the foot. So you have to make sure you have screw holes in your bed (like where the seam guide would attach.)
My husband has been learning how to sew, and making gun and accessory cases - and he is also dealing with putting binding on layers and curves. This might be something that would be a good tool for him too.
My husband has been learning how to sew, and making gun and accessory cases - and he is also dealing with putting binding on layers and curves. This might be something that would be a good tool for him too.
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