Cleaning rusty FW bobbin case
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Hi everyone,
Just after posting about needing a bobbin case for my 1938 Featherweight, I took a chance and bought a vintage case (eBay) that comes with the bobbin case base and the gib (broken). The price was right -- $30. I just need the bobbin case. It's the same number as the one that I swap between my two Featherweights. My question is how to clean some small rust spots off the case... WD-40? Something else? I'm hoping that it's functional after some cleaning, but I don't know how to clean the bobbin case and I'm afraid to take it apart completely... there are some tiny little parts in there.
Help?
Ila
Just after posting about needing a bobbin case for my 1938 Featherweight, I took a chance and bought a vintage case (eBay) that comes with the bobbin case base and the gib (broken). The price was right -- $30. I just need the bobbin case. It's the same number as the one that I swap between my two Featherweights. My question is how to clean some small rust spots off the case... WD-40? Something else? I'm hoping that it's functional after some cleaning, but I don't know how to clean the bobbin case and I'm afraid to take it apart completely... there are some tiny little parts in there.
Help?
Ila
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
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Were it me, I'd disassemble it, soak it in Evapo-Rust for a bit, then use the fine wire brush on my Dremel tool or 4/O steel wool on the rusty spots.
That would clean it under the tension spring as well. You never know what kind of junk is under the spring.
A good oiling then a wipe down, reassemble it and it should be ready to adjust the tension.
Glad you got a bobbin case for such a reasonable price.
Joe
That would clean it under the tension spring as well. You never know what kind of junk is under the spring.
A good oiling then a wipe down, reassemble it and it should be ready to adjust the tension.
Glad you got a bobbin case for such a reasonable price.
Joe
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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Wow, Joe, you lost me at "disassemble it." I'm too scared that the little spring will go flying! I don't have any Evapo-Rust... where do I get that? Do you live anywhere near Denver? ![Smile](https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/smile.png)
I'll see what it looks like when it gets here and see how it works... maybe the machine will sew fine and the rust is just ornamental. Then I can try some Evapo-Rust without disassembling it. A girl can hope, right?
Ila
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I'll see what it looks like when it gets here and see how it works... maybe the machine will sew fine and the rust is just ornamental. Then I can try some Evapo-Rust without disassembling it. A girl can hope, right?
Ila
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
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"fear is the mind killer, it is the little death..."
Go for it! It is not that bad, really really. If you decide to try, you have a whole site full of folks willing to help you through it. if you can take and post a picture, we can help you through most anything.
Go for it! It is not that bad, really really. If you decide to try, you have a whole site full of folks willing to help you through it. if you can take and post a picture, we can help you through most anything.
#6
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
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Ila,
I'm in Springfield, IL. Just a bit too far for a visit.
The tension spring is not under any major pressure, but the tiny little screws can be very tight. One thing to do is get a magnifying hood so you can see better what you're doing. Then put the case and tools inside a large zip lock bag and take it apart in there.
The reason to remove the tension spring is that link, thread bits, dirt, rust and what not can accumulate under there and that will mess up the tension.
I get my Evapo-Rust at O'Reilys auto parts store. But you don't have to have that. You might be able to clean the case with steel wool and sewing machine oil.
Then again, it just might work fine the way it is. I always try new (used) parts before I do anything to them just because.
Joe
I'm in Springfield, IL. Just a bit too far for a visit.
The tension spring is not under any major pressure, but the tiny little screws can be very tight. One thing to do is get a magnifying hood so you can see better what you're doing. Then put the case and tools inside a large zip lock bag and take it apart in there.
The reason to remove the tension spring is that link, thread bits, dirt, rust and what not can accumulate under there and that will mess up the tension.
I get my Evapo-Rust at O'Reilys auto parts store. But you don't have to have that. You might be able to clean the case with steel wool and sewing machine oil.
Then again, it just might work fine the way it is. I always try new (used) parts before I do anything to them just because.
Joe
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: The Deep South near Cajun Country, USA
Posts: 5,429
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I just bought a Singer Treadle today and am learning so much from all you experts. We unload it from the truck tomorrow and I will know what the Serial # is. I know that it is a 27 or 28 because of the metal slide plates covering the bullet shaped bobbin holder. I know there is rust looking spots and it needs to be repainted and new decals. I can't wait to get pictures and share with everyone.
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
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The earlier 27s and 28s don't have a motor mount boss for the hand crank. I'm still trying to figure out what I can come up with to make one of my 27s work with a hand crank without drilling into the machine. I'm almost thinking I'll have to try casting something.
Rodney
Rodney
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