Wanabee Quiltin

I vote for anything really bright and colorful.

J Miller

I think a deep dark metallic burgundy would be nice.

Joe

Sewnoma

I am overly fond of the bright cobalt blues a lot of cars are these days. My car is that color, and I even dye a shock of my hair that color too. LOL

SunlitenSmiles

that was my thought also....striking

greywuuf

a blank Slate...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]518604[/ATTACH]

lmc8

Oooo... Greywuuf, I have the same issue with the chrome parts on my White Rotary FR which is currently dismantled and has been de-grunged; the silvering is currently dull grey and pitted in sporadic spots. If you would be kind enough to post pics and narration to guide me through your gun blueing or color case hardening process, I'd follow right behind you. I'm also planning on using Rustoleum spray paint on the cast iron. My intention is to eventually use this machine on a home-made long-arm quilting frame that I have the instructions and supplies for and which I will post a separate thread about when I get around to it this summer.

greywuuf

lmc8, that sounds very ambitious. I have yet to decide exactly what finish I will use. gun blueing is either a chemical ( cold blue) or an oxidation ( rust) process or a comination ( hot salt method) it is messy and usually involves caustic chemicals. The OLD method is "Slow rust blueing" which involves a high humidity box and a LONG time, slowly putting a fine layer of rust on the metal and "carding" it off with rough fabric and finally Boiling in water (when the surface is thick enough) to convert the red oxide rust into a black form of the oxide .

Color case hardening involves packing the pieces in Bone meal ( to eliminate oxygen ) and heating them in a controlled fire ( heat treat oven or coal forge or even a camp fire.. risky due to inconsistent result ) to impart a tortise shell effect and a thin layer of high cabon steel. So fairly ambitious undertaking on my part as well.... but all still cleaner and safer than chrome plating.

Dan

lmc8

Hmm, I looked both processes up on YouTube... Here's what I found...
COLD BLUEING: produces a consistent gun-metal black color
* A Gun Blueing kit from Birchwood Casey, seams easy enough, similar to wood staining.
* A supposed more-resilient method uses a layer of Express Browning #2 stain under multiple layers of Oxpho-Blue.
* A heat/oil method, heats the suspended object with a propane torch until it turns blue, than is dipped in engine oil.
COLOR CASE HARDENING: produces an inconsistent flame-like texture
* Requires more specialized tools: a nested cast iron box set w/ a removable carry handle and stiff suspension wire, packing sand(granular coal), a 13,000-degree oven source, an aerated quench bath, and a clear coat applied.
* Also found gel patinas that don't require heat, either a textured copper color, or a multi-colored flame-gel by Steel F/X (textured blues, greens, purples, oranges); both applied similar to wood stains.

I'm considering... either browning/bluing or copper petina for my metal piece parts, and Rustoleum orange for my cast iron.

greywuuf

lmc8, I will not be using cold blue. all of my experiences have proven to me that it is not durable, especially for use on high contact area's such as knobs and handles. also the "Paint on" type agents are a touch up product and when used on large flat areas end up looking like " touch up" jobs.

Rodney

I tried one version of rust bluing on an antique hand plane I was working on. I don't remember the exact recipe but I think it was hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and salt. It gave a nice grey/blue color but the part I blued had some fine pits when it was done. I wasn't completely pleased due to the pits. If you use this method test it on something you don't care about, preferably with the same metal content, first. The part I blued was cast iron, steel may not pit as badly.

I think the case hardening will produce a very striking effect and it sounds like a fun process.
Rodney