Do you have a checklist for when you buy a used machine?
#11
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
For me it's all about "is it a model I want, and for the price is it one I want to keep or will I send it to another home when I'm done with it?" Missing parts or work needed aren't necessarily a no-go for me, it depends on the machine and the asking price. Out of all the machines I've gotten in the last 7 years, only a couple couldn't be repaired. I won't part out a machine if it can be fixed even if it takes time to find the parts.
If it's a machine for my own collection I use the pitter patter guage. Does it make my heart go pitter patter? If it does and I can afford it I'll buy it. If it's a machine that's gonna be re homed, the price has to be right compared to what it needs.
Cari
If it's a machine for my own collection I use the pitter patter guage. Does it make my heart go pitter patter? If it does and I can afford it I'll buy it. If it's a machine that's gonna be re homed, the price has to be right compared to what it needs.
Cari
Last edited by Cari-in-Oly; 08-06-2017 at 02:12 PM.
#12
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
What I take a chance on is stuck machines, messed up tension, not working, needle won't moove,..., things like that. More often than not it all moves again with cleaning, oiling and basic sorting out. Stuck screws I rather avvoid, but as long as there's a chance they free up with oil and a bit of patience and effort, I take a chance on it. At the right price it's not a big risk. That's how I bought my Elna Supermatic; main problem was hard packed dust under the bobbin case, needle in the wrong way, and half the bobbins were class 15. I didn't know this until I came home and spent a bit of time with it. Most of the all metal machines in reasonably good cosmetic condition are lightly used and likely only need a bit of TLC to run again.
Last edited by Mickey2; 08-06-2017 at 03:14 PM.
#13
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
I agree with you Mickey. I've been given a few machines because they "didn't work". One was just a loose wire in the controller, two had so much lint packed in under the needle plate the feed dogs could no longer move, another had the wrong bobbin in it. Taking a chance on a non working machine is sometimes not much of a gamble.
Cari
Cari
#14
Checklist? What is a checklist? I didn't know rabbit holes had those:-) LOL
I have based my purchases on the "I see, I want" system of buying vintage machines. So far it has worked too well for me, 6 VSM in about 2 months. Every time I turned around there was something I wanted. I have been very fortunate to aquire working machines in good to fine condition with lots of attachments and decent enough cabinets.
I have based my purchases on the "I see, I want" system of buying vintage machines. So far it has worked too well for me, 6 VSM in about 2 months. Every time I turned around there was something I wanted. I have been very fortunate to aquire working machines in good to fine condition with lots of attachments and decent enough cabinets.
#16
Super Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Round Rock,Texas
Posts: 6,135
I use older machines, mostly treadles and hand crank. I know how to get some of them cleaned up and sewing again. Singers are the ones I like to work on, however I've also worked on a few other brands.
My rules:
1. Must use a modern 15x1 needle
2. Have bobbin case/shuttle and a few bobbins
3. presser foot
4. be in reasonably good condition, not missing parts, no major rust.
My rules:
1. Must use a modern 15x1 needle
2. Have bobbin case/shuttle and a few bobbins
3. presser foot
4. be in reasonably good condition, not missing parts, no major rust.
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 255
Hi there, I look for the manual, foot petal, and if am able to touch I turn the handle to see if the needle bar moves easy or hard up and down. If the owner who is selling it allow for test, plug into electric and your able to at least tap the foot petal. If I have all of this then yes, I would purchase and yes, I would take it to the shop for cleaning and maintenance. If the unit is electronic like many new models not sure I would still do the above, unless you know how to work the used machine make sure it have the manual as you cannot find many manuals any longer.
#18
My new addition to the list is must not have plastic pattern cams or pattern cam gears (excluding the composite gear in the singer 301 and similar). 6 of my current out of commission machines have plastic gears and 5 of them are cracked. The Bernina 731 gear was inexpensive to buy but a challenge to replace and it still sounds bad. I also balk at more than $25, but have broken that rule several times. I decided I will never find a round bobbin hand crank for that price so I paid $100. Other than that, I have cleaned up very rusty (but free) machines, rewired bad wiring of $10 machines, and freed up frozen $25 machines, so none of those conditions are deal breakers if the price is right. I am especially tempted by colorful machines! I have enough black straight stitch only machines. Unless it's a singer 201 for less than $50
#19
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
I'm not very strict on plastic gears,because my favorite zigzagger, (Bernina 730) has one or two; it's nice, smooth and among the speedy ones in the domestic category. The cam gear is a bit of work to replace though. These machines should run very nicely, if not they need more attension. They are very well behaved, no-fuzz machines.
My Elna Supermatic has a couple of plastic gears too, as well as my shiny green Phoenix free arm zigzagger. For some models it's well worth replacing worn gears, they last and stand up to the use these machines can handle.
My Elna Supermatic has a couple of plastic gears too, as well as my shiny green Phoenix free arm zigzagger. For some models it's well worth replacing worn gears, they last and stand up to the use these machines can handle.
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M.I.Late
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12-26-2011 10:39 AM