DOMESTIC (174740) help please with information about this one...i need to know all...
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fletcher NC(cool, green mountains)
Posts: 646
DOMESTIC (174740) help please with information about this one...i need to know all...
I just acquired this pretty lady and I really need to find out whatever I can about her..........some of you are SO knowledgeable about the Iron Ladies, I know someone can help me..........the serial # is 174740....I went to ISACS but they don't really have much info on it...........she runs but very slowly, so I think she needs a good cleanout...I am going to be taking her to my local shop, to a guy who loves these old ones....
Last edited by 4dogs; 10-13-2015 at 02:26 PM. Reason: where are the photos ??
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fletcher NC(cool, green mountains)
Posts: 646
DOMESTIC (174740) help please with information about this one...i need to know all...
trying again to put the photos on here....it keeps telling me that the file upload failed..?????
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
When you can't find the correct user manual you go by intuition. You unscrew all lids and plates (needle plate, shuttle plates, face plate, and the bit in the front), and clean up as much dust, treads, fluff, old oil and grime as you can. Then oil all hinges, gears, every part that moves where metal touches metal. Lift up the machine and look under the base, there's lots of parts that need oil and cleaing. Where there are small holes in body, the bobbin winder and in the metal (gears and hinges), they are most likely oiling points. Behind the face plate all parts need oil, where the presser bar and needle bar goes through the cast iron body and perhaps steel shafts. Oil repetedly, lift up presser bar and turn the hand wheel now and then. Keep it up for a few days, it can take a few days for oil to reach the inner most nooks and crannies and flush out old sticky oil and grime.
The knob above the bobbin winder is the stitch length adjuster, turn it in and out to its' extreme positions while you oil the threading. You can with advantage oil generously until parts run smoother. Before you start put a rag or paper towels in the botton of the case to pick up any oil dripping down, it likely will. After a bit of use brown oil and grime might seep out of joints and you have to do a second round of wiping of and oiling. Eventually the oil will stay clear and clean, and you can get more relaxed with the oiling part.
You can with advantage polish up the shiny metal parts with something like Autosol or Quick-Glo, or similar. It's often important to oil, clean and polish up the bobbin winder of this type throughly. The long bobbins need the thread to run very smoothly on the mechanism to wind smoothly.
You can carefully clean it with microfiber cloth and regular sewing machin oil, it's the most common advice. I have used a slighly damp microfiber cloth with out any damage to either decals or paint, not everybody trust this method though. Be carefull with the decals, and take care for them not to rub off. They usually can take a gentle cleaning and polishing, but if they are damaged and brittle they might rub off. Yours looks quite good though, a bit of wear to them, but that's to be expected. Take your time and gently go over the machine with circular movements, all dirt and grime will come off. You probably have to use a few cloths. I tend to use a small pile of cotton swabs too. I polish my machines with hope that it leaves a protective film peventing further wear and tear to the finish.
If you do this, the repair guy will have a much easier job when he tends to missing motor belts and replacing electrical wires.
You machine looks very nice, not too far from a Singer model 127. This video is for a Singer, but I think it's similar enought to be helpful. You might need to improvise a bit along the way, but the general way about it should be there. Do you have both the sliding covers for the shuttle or is it missing?
Edit, I found a video on a Domestic too, this guy has a bit of information as well as a demostration.
The knob above the bobbin winder is the stitch length adjuster, turn it in and out to its' extreme positions while you oil the threading. You can with advantage oil generously until parts run smoother. Before you start put a rag or paper towels in the botton of the case to pick up any oil dripping down, it likely will. After a bit of use brown oil and grime might seep out of joints and you have to do a second round of wiping of and oiling. Eventually the oil will stay clear and clean, and you can get more relaxed with the oiling part.
You can with advantage polish up the shiny metal parts with something like Autosol or Quick-Glo, or similar. It's often important to oil, clean and polish up the bobbin winder of this type throughly. The long bobbins need the thread to run very smoothly on the mechanism to wind smoothly.
You can carefully clean it with microfiber cloth and regular sewing machin oil, it's the most common advice. I have used a slighly damp microfiber cloth with out any damage to either decals or paint, not everybody trust this method though. Be carefull with the decals, and take care for them not to rub off. They usually can take a gentle cleaning and polishing, but if they are damaged and brittle they might rub off. Yours looks quite good though, a bit of wear to them, but that's to be expected. Take your time and gently go over the machine with circular movements, all dirt and grime will come off. You probably have to use a few cloths. I tend to use a small pile of cotton swabs too. I polish my machines with hope that it leaves a protective film peventing further wear and tear to the finish.
If you do this, the repair guy will have a much easier job when he tends to missing motor belts and replacing electrical wires.
You machine looks very nice, not too far from a Singer model 127. This video is for a Singer, but I think it's similar enought to be helpful. You might need to improvise a bit along the way, but the general way about it should be there. Do you have both the sliding covers for the shuttle or is it missing?
Edit, I found a video on a Domestic too, this guy has a bit of information as well as a demostration.
Last edited by Mickey2; 10-13-2015 at 03:31 PM.
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
Here's a manual on the Singer 27. The info on ismacs should be helpful too, the "Franklin Long Shuttle" looks similar enough to yours. I hope at least some of what I posted is of help.
I wish I could edit and tidy up my post a bit better, a bit late apparently. In section four I mean cleaning and polishing the the body and surface in general.
I wish I could edit and tidy up my post a bit better, a bit late apparently. In section four I mean cleaning and polishing the the body and surface in general.
Last edited by Mickey2; 10-13-2015 at 03:59 PM.
#5
The Franklin is basically the same machine (Domestic made them both) The nice part- it takes the singer style shuttle (not the same as earlier domestic machines)
I'm pretty sure this came out mid to late 20's, but I do not know how long it continued.
I'm pretty sure this came out mid to late 20's, but I do not know how long it continued.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millville, NJ
Posts: 1,835
Not quite a Singer 27 copy but very similar. Same 15x1 Singer needles, shuttle, and bobbins. Perhaps even a Singer Slide plate would fit or made to fit without much difficulty. A few well placed drops of oil and cleaning should speed things up.
Good Luck
Jon
Good Luck
Jon
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