Domestic Rotary 153mg - Timing issue after a deep clean
#1
Domestic Rotary 153mg - Timing issue after a deep clean
Help needed. I gave Louis a deep clean and now I cannot get the timing correct. Every time I think I have it right & try to turn the wheel, 3 things can happen:
1. Won't turn if head is on securely,
2. Loosen the 2 big screws, wheel turns stiffly but there's a clicking sound, OR
3. Turns smoothly if I loosen the 2 large screws on the head. One in top in front & the other in back. But the head moves around so I end up breaking my needle.
I don't want to give up on him bc he's still running strong. I've looked up any possible helpful videos but none that will help with my flop.
1. Won't turn if head is on securely,
2. Loosen the 2 big screws, wheel turns stiffly but there's a clicking sound, OR
3. Turns smoothly if I loosen the 2 large screws on the head. One in top in front & the other in back. But the head moves around so I end up breaking my needle.
I don't want to give up on him bc he's still running strong. I've looked up any possible helpful videos but none that will help with my flop.
#2
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,076
From what you say, I'm imagining the hook needs to move a bit. How much space is between the needle and the hook? There should only be about 1 thread's distance between them, when the point of the hook is right behind the needle.
#3
There's clearance between the needle and the presser bar. It's the inside metal joint bar that connects the needle bar to the disc that I feel I can't get it timed exactly right. The clicking happens at a specific point each full rotation which makes me believe it's catching/hitting the side.
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,076
I'm having a hard time understanding. Is the take-up lever hitting the machine? Or, is the clicking happening when the feed dogs come up and hit the presser foot? Either one will cause a clicking sound or binding feeling.
Are the "2 big screws" inside the "head?" Or on the front and back of the machine. Looking at pictures of the machine online, and still feeling very confused.
I understand the the end of the machine with the needle bar comes off, and you have to get it back on just right. Is that where you're having trouble?
Are the "2 big screws" inside the "head?" Or on the front and back of the machine. Looking at pictures of the machine online, and still feeling very confused.
I understand the the end of the machine with the needle bar comes off, and you have to get it back on just right. Is that where you're having trouble?
#5
Here are the images. It's the timing bar that hits the inside wall (presser lift bar) at every full rotation.
1. Did I attached/assembled back on correctly?
2. 2 screws are located at the front head assembly.
3. Picture shows the current position of both pressure bar & needle bar.
Hope these make more sense. I appreciate your help with this very much.
1. Did I attached/assembled back on correctly?
2. 2 screws are located at the front head assembly.
3. Picture shows the current position of both pressure bar & needle bar.
Hope these make more sense. I appreciate your help with this very much.
Spoiler
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: South of St Louis
Posts: 822
I opened up one of my Kenmore 117s, the connecting rod from the main upper shaft to the needle bar does not appear omnidirectional. Based on how you have that connecting rod in your picture with the rod circled in red, turn it around, keeping the dimple next to the 800 up and towards the machine.
When you tighten the two screws holding the face plate on, you have to have a needle in and presser foot on, there is some room to move these before tightening the two screws and you want to have them positioned correctly.
When you tighten the two screws holding the face plate on, you have to have a needle in and presser foot on, there is some room to move these before tightening the two screws and you want to have them positioned correctly.