ArchaicArcane

Yes, the screw is covering a motor brush - a small piece of carbon fits in that tube, then a spring holds tension on it to hold it against the commutator in the motor (the two of these parts rubbing together are what "spark" on an electric motor when it runs sometimes) The brush cover screw (the plastic one you saw) holds the spring and brush in, and creates the pressure needed to hold the brush to the commutator.

Be careful with that screw cap too. It's extremely easy to over tighten and break it. It's an expensive screw too (for what it is) I've had to replace about 5 of them on machines I've had come through here, and they can be a real treat to get out when they're broken.

Mdaniels

Okay--thank you. And what is the motor brush screw. I'm asking because the screw top broke off, leaving the plastic shaft in the motor, flush with the hole.

This is bad, no?

ArchaicArcane

http://shop.sew-classic.com/Carbon-B...1-2-SCE514.htm

The motor brush screw is the cap or screw we've been talking about. Like in the link I've just posted. The originals were bakelite, I'm not sure what the new ones are. Probably plastic. They feel different.

Yes, it's bad. That means it was over tightened by a lot. The basic rule with most things that an owner will touch on a sewing machine is:

If you can't get it out, you can't change the brushes when they wear down. The motor will stop working when that happens. It doesn't need to be replaced today, but it's better to do it now when it's on your mind, than when it needs to come out and you don't have the new cap.

The easiest way to get that cap out now is if you can get lucky and grab anything on that screw that protrudes with a pair of pliers. Otherwise, an "easy out" used very gently might do it... I've seen people use a sharp pocket knife to get a grip in the middle of the screw, but it takes a really gentle hand to not make things worse with this method.

Sheluma

I was confused at first by the term "brush", because it doesn't have bristles. It's a solid carbon "stick" attached to a spring. They last for years. If you remove a brush, when you put it back make sure it is in the same orientation as it was before. New brushes have squared ends, and they get worn by the commutator into a concave shape that makes full contact with the commutator. If you put it back in a different position it will take a while for it to get worn into the proper concave shape. I don't *think* it's a huge deal, but if one brush is making full contact and the other is not, I'm not sure what the effect will be.

I'm wondering if you should wait until you bring the machine back to the shop and let them deal with the broken brush screw. From what I've read on this forum, some shops are good and some aren't. I don't want to be a downer, but I'm a bit concerned about your shop because they sold you a machine that wasn't ready to sew. It could have been an accident, and maybe they're a fine shop. If they're not a fine shop, then it might be better to fix any problems yourself. You'll be learning to service the machine yourself eventually, anyway. But if they are a good shop, then you might as well let them replace the brush screw because it sounds tricky (I've never done it and Tammi knows her stuff). You'll be going back to them anyway for the proper tray, SS foot and thumbscrew, and to diagnose the slowness problem.

Sheluma

These scans are from an old Singer motor manual. The FW motor looks slightly different, and the grease tubes are in a different position, but functionally it's the same as the one in these pictures.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]432669[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]432670[/ATTACH]

Mdaniels

I appreciate everyone's patience with my questions--I, too, was confused by the term brushes. I would very much like to take care of this myself--however, I agree that I may wait and take it into the shop. I do not think I can get this out on my own and I hate to leave it like this.

Dang it. Thanks everyone.

ArchaicArcane

There seems to be a lot of that - brushes that don't have bristles, pulleys that don't look like you'd expect, all sorts of things. I usually have to stop and "think" of the word brushes before I can write it or tell someone about it, because my brain refuses to believe that it's a brush. That said, I guess one could say even without the bristles, it still "brushes" the commutator...?

You can use it with the broken cap, nothing will happen. It becomes a maintenance issue down the road.

The slowness issue should be addressed before use, but there's a good chance that's just a too tight belt. If you take the belt right off the hand wheel, give it a turn, does it feel free moving?

If yes, practice putting the belt on loosely.
If no, I think I would be taking it back to the shop and telling them you'll pick it up when it's up to the standard that you paid for.

Sheluma

Yes! That's how I'll think of it from now on. My Willcox and Gibbs has thumb screws for the brush caps instead of a slot. I think it's a better design because it's much harder to over-tighten them. That motor is so old it doesn't have the amps printed on it.

Great advice!

Mdaniels

Thank you again. I have her running now. I am not sure exactly how fast she should go, but I am going to search for a video of one sewing. She isn't as speedy as my 401, but she is little and I assume the motor is not as powerful. The bobbin and upper thread are catching and the stitch is nice.

Question: can Tri Flow be used to oil these? I use Tri Flow for my 401, both the oil and the grease. In the desk that came with my 401 is a about a half of an original can of Singer oil. I can use that if needed, too.

i will take her into the shop and ask them to fix the screw I broke that accesses the motor brush. I don't want to break anything else. She is in such very good condition otherwise, I feel like so stupid for doing that. I'm kind of afraid to use her now. Lesson learned.

Mary Ann

ArchaicArcane

No, she won't run as fast as a 401. .40A vs .80A I think? Nor will she pierce as much. The belt should looks loose. It's got to be just tight enough to not slip otherwise it will put too much load on the motor, make the motor hot and burn it out.

Yes, you can use TriFlow oil and gears anywhere on the machine that you would use oil or grease usually EXCEPT in the motor! The grease tubes in the motor need to have either the brown or clear Singer lube or Vaseline. There's a "new" formula out there that's White, and the general conscenus is that it shouldn't be used. I haven't seen it yet. All my supplier has is the brown stuff. I think you're not in Canada, so I don't have a good source for you. If you were in Canada, I would offer to help you out.

In fact, if you give her a Tri-Flow spa treatment, she'll love you for it.

The oil in the singer can is fine as long as it's still clear and smells like oil. If it's turning brown or smells rancid, it's no longer good. But if you have TriFLow I would use that first every time.

Believe it or not, that cap and the screw that holds the spool pin plate are the only real parts that I find "fragile" on the featherweight. Otherwise, she's a tough old gal. It happens to all of us. In my case, I had a bobbin winder self destruct in my hands. Oh I was mad at myself.