oldsewnsew

dearr mrs sewnsew (no relation) a good mechanical connection is desirable, as weil as the solder. Believe it or no, most solder doesn't conduct as well as copper to copper. The solder keeps things from coming undone and helps prevent corrosion and oxidization out of the joint. twisted together in a neat inline manner so the heat shrink can go over is what you are looking for usually. Twisted bare conductors under a wire nut is best left to house wiring and large appliances. Also there are some heatshrinks that are more resistant to wear. look at buyheatshrink.com for explanation of what types are available. Myself, i like using vintage style cotton over pvc insulated, twisted wire and replace all the old stuff.

Mrs. SewNSew

Thanks Jim. That makes sense. Haha..yeah same name..no relation. heehee

grant15clone

You are welcome Mrs. SewNSew. Unless you are using it to swing on or pull cars out of a ditch, you don't need to twist the wires. You can see more wiring tips on my page. The link is below.
~G~

J Miller

Grant,

Lousy dial up, your pics wouldn't open completely. Too big and too many on one page.


OK, I have a question for you. When using heat shrink I have found it very difficult to get it to bend. Heat shrink is stiff enough with one layer, how do you get two and three to bend?

Joe

oldsewnsew

that's one of the reasons why they make more than one type of heatshrink. I can't locate stuff locally that I'm happy with, that's why I rewire as much of it as possible, and just heatshrink, liquid tape the junctions. But to each his own... That link I posted above shows one type that is like a braided heat shrinkable covering. Now that might duplicate the appearance of some of the vintage gear and be a little more bend-y to boot.

Mrs. SewNSew

I am working on a motor very similar to the one you showed today. I have re-wired it 3 times, but I am a beginner and am still working on developing my skills. I was concerned since I was running out of lead into the wrappings whether I would be able to twist my wires together. I pre-twisted the wire I wanted to bring in so it had a spiral to it and then was able to get a decent connection to solder. This is a test motor to practice a few things prior to working on my Singer 15-125. So far, so good.

I took photos prior to taking it apart and when I match the same distance the belt pulley? was originally there is about 1/8 play in the shaft back and forth. The brushes are still in contact with the armature either way, but is that normal? I am not sure if there is a standard tiny amount or whether it all relates more to getting the positioning right for the belt on the machine.

oldsewnsew

I see the braid at heatshrink.com is expandable, not heat shrink. I wind up using a short piece of heat shrink on the end to keep from unraveling

oldsewnsew

a small amt of endplay seems pretty comon. You csn put in .35" Izf shims yo take out some, but not all unless you're reslly dure of brush armature alignment. U can check it w flashlight thru vent holes.

Cogito

Awesome tute! Thanks is an understatement!

grant15clone

Joe, There are two main types available to me. The kind I use is more of a rubber product. There is a plastic type that does not bend well and is harder to work with.
~G~