Fixing a Singer 101-3 - Parts and Questions!
#11
cords that work with the 201 are very common and easy to get. When Singer first started with electric machines, they tried a few different types before going with that style which they kept for - oh, 20-30 years or longer. And made so many, many machines that used it that it's still readily available after market.
This style came out around 1929 or so. Before that, they used the male/female connections, the cord split and had one on each end. If you tip your machine back, you may find that those wires in the cabinet go into the machine and connect to the machine that way.
One of the earliest styles of cords has a light bulb end on the "plug in the wall" end, from before outlets were the norm. So to run the machine, you screwed that end into a light bulb fixture. I really want to find one of those for my collection! Then I'll get a vintage light bulb wall fixture to use with it (though I'll put that on a cord).
This style came out around 1929 or so. Before that, they used the male/female connections, the cord split and had one on each end. If you tip your machine back, you may find that those wires in the cabinet go into the machine and connect to the machine that way.
One of the earliest styles of cords has a light bulb end on the "plug in the wall" end, from before outlets were the norm. So to run the machine, you screwed that end into a light bulb fixture. I really want to find one of those for my collection! Then I'll get a vintage light bulb wall fixture to use with it (though I'll put that on a cord).
#12
I have had a horrible time trying to find pictures on my photobucket account the last few days - I know I have pictures of the bottom sides of both styles 101 - but can not find them (also can't find the pics of my Minnesota and treadle table, and a few others . . .)
Anyway - this is a rewired plug showing the old style "ends" that connect to the machine. This one is for a 128 but is the same as what is with my 101.
I did find this picture - showing the built in control box. Notice the two copper pegs extending for the box with all the round airholes? that is where the "cord" plugs into the machine. That is the "foot pedal" for this machine. The knee lever is just a lever, and pushes into the end of the machine to activate that control.
Anyway - this is a rewired plug showing the old style "ends" that connect to the machine. This one is for a 128 but is the same as what is with my 101.
I did find this picture - showing the built in control box. Notice the two copper pegs extending for the box with all the round airholes? that is where the "cord" plugs into the machine. That is the "foot pedal" for this machine. The knee lever is just a lever, and pushes into the end of the machine to activate that control.
Last edited by Macybaby; 04-01-2015 at 03:50 AM.
#13
Anyway - this is a rewired plug showing the old style "ends" that connect to the machine. This one is for a 128 but is the same as what is with my 101.
I did find this picture - showing the built in control box. Notice the two copper pegs extending for the box with all the round airholes? that is where the "cord" plugs into the machine. That is the "foot pedal" for this machine. The knee lever is just a lever, and pushes into the end of the machine to activate that control.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515668[/ATTACH]
It has three holes in it. It looks like it will fit something like this below for a 201:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515670[/ATTACH]
I will have to pick up one with a foot pedal and see if it works. If not I'll get a basic one and learn to use the knee pedal. Thanks!
Ahhhhh. ::flails::
Last edited by serae; 04-02-2015 at 07:05 AM.
#14
Yup- that is the cord you want. What you have in the cabinet is the typical end that gets mounted on the machines - yours is just mounted lower down.
Be aware, depending on how it's wired above the connection block, you may not be able to use a the foot pedal connected to the cord without rerouting the other.
This is because the incoming HOT wire above the connection goes into the knee pedal. So even when you press the pedal on the cord - it STILL needs to pass through the knee control before the circuit is completed for the motor to run. In effect, you'll need to push BOTH pedals at the same time.
It's an easy fix - you just have to take the wire going to the knee pedal and move it so it goes directly to the connecting block.
BTW - all the connecting block is - is a plug between the two cords. It's the way the outgoing wires are connected that makes the difference. With the early models, the foot pedal was hard wired to the back of that connector, instead of being part of the plug and on the "front" side of the connector.
Be aware, depending on how it's wired above the connection block, you may not be able to use a the foot pedal connected to the cord without rerouting the other.
This is because the incoming HOT wire above the connection goes into the knee pedal. So even when you press the pedal on the cord - it STILL needs to pass through the knee control before the circuit is completed for the motor to run. In effect, you'll need to push BOTH pedals at the same time.
It's an easy fix - you just have to take the wire going to the knee pedal and move it so it goes directly to the connecting block.
BTW - all the connecting block is - is a plug between the two cords. It's the way the outgoing wires are connected that makes the difference. With the early models, the foot pedal was hard wired to the back of that connector, instead of being part of the plug and on the "front" side of the connector.
#15
Brilliant, ok now I think I can work with this. I have bunnies who sometimes chew through cords so I have some experience with soldering wires. I think for now I will get the basic cord and see if I can work with the knee pedal. I need to make sure this machine works well before I start putting more money into it. After that I will consider rewiring it to a foot pedal and get on the task of finding the hemmer attachments to it.
Thank you! I have a few projects I need to get done this summer. I am sure you will see me again!
Thank you! I have a few projects I need to get done this summer. I am sure you will see me again!
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Would that make it some sort of albino?
My 101 has a connector block that uses Chicago plugs for the power cord in about the same location as serae's connector block. My guess is the original connectors or cord was damaged somehow and that block was wired in as a replacement. It looks like both the machine and controller are wired into the block.
Serae, I think you show the correct replacement cord.
Here's a link to Sew-Classic's cord.
http://shop.sew-classic.com/Cord-Sin...ORE-SCE122.htm
Rodney
My 101 has a connector block that uses Chicago plugs for the power cord in about the same location as serae's connector block. My guess is the original connectors or cord was damaged somehow and that block was wired in as a replacement. It looks like both the machine and controller are wired into the block.
Serae, I think you show the correct replacement cord.
Here's a link to Sew-Classic's cord.
http://shop.sew-classic.com/Cord-Sin...ORE-SCE122.htm
Rodney
#18
Rodney- white rabbits with red eyes are not albino - it's a normal coloring for them. it's actually recessives, so a white rabbit with red eyes does have a color under the white (maybe spots too) but you can't see it.
Color genetics in rabbits is pretty fun to research.
Color genetics in rabbits is pretty fun to research.
#19
Well then I know exactly what to order then! I won't fuss with rewiring until I know the machine is in good order.
Lame noobie question: Is there a specific oil I should be using or can I use any general Singer machine oil?
A rabbit singer! Ah nice.
On the white rabbit note, there are a few breeds of rabbits what are white (or mostly white) with red eyes. Californians and Americans, Florida Whites, some variations of Angoras and Satins, New Zealands, Himalayans...just to name a few! I'm active with the House Rabbit Society. One of my projects I have in mind is s make some cute sleep shorts with a flannel bunny fabric I have for a half dozen of my rabbit friends.
Shameless bunny plug:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515712[/ATTACH]
Lame noobie question: Is there a specific oil I should be using or can I use any general Singer machine oil?
A rabbit singer! Ah nice.
On the white rabbit note, there are a few breeds of rabbits what are white (or mostly white) with red eyes. Californians and Americans, Florida Whites, some variations of Angoras and Satins, New Zealands, Himalayans...just to name a few! I'm active with the House Rabbit Society. One of my projects I have in mind is s make some cute sleep shorts with a flannel bunny fabric I have for a half dozen of my rabbit friends.
Shameless bunny plug:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515712[/ATTACH]
#20
I don't have rabbits anymore (in fact, the shed we tore down for the Machine Shed is where I had them).
I raised them in a modified colony setup - here are some New Zeland REW. I learned first hand what "breed like rabbits" meant.
I raised them in a modified colony setup - here are some New Zeland REW. I learned first hand what "breed like rabbits" meant.
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