HELP needed for 185J Bobbin Winder issue
#1
HELP needed for 185J Bobbin Winder issue
I am trying to get this little sewing machine to wind a bobbin. If I release the winder, it powers up just fine. Everything is moving as normal. However (just new belt and new bobbin tire on) If I engage the winder it slows the motor way down and barely moves, let alone winds the bobbin. Any ideas on what I can try next?
Thanks!
Jody
Thanks!
Jody
#2
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
#4
Sheluma, I think that may be at least part of the problem. I am not sure how to remove it. I looked at the videos that Mariam recommended and that may be needed as well, but couldnt find how to remove/clean the bobbin winder. I tried to clean what I can see.
#5
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
There should be a little hole between where the bobbin goes and the tire. Put a little Tri-flow in that hole. Then work it back and forth to make it turn. If it still doesn't turn you may have to heat it.
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
I am trying to get this little sewing machine to wind a bobbin. If I release the winder, it powers up just fine. Everything is moving as normal. However (just new belt and new bobbin tire on) If I engage the winder it slows the motor way down and barely moves, let alone winds the bobbin. Any ideas on what I can try next?
Thanks!
Jody
Thanks!
Jody
First, the belt could be too tight. That alone will slow down the machine as the belt puts a load on it. Then add the load from the bobbin tire and the machine will slow to a crawl.
Second, sometimes the new bobbin tires are larger than the old ones. So they put a real big load on the machine and slow it down. This happens because the old tires shrink, or just wear. And sometimes the new ones are just bigger. There are usually adjustments in the bobbin winding assembly to take care of this.
On some machines that do not have adjustments I've used a file and removed just enough rubber from the bobbin wider tire so it will work with out putting too much load on the motor.
Joe
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 476
I think Joe's got really good advice, especially since you just changed the belt. There should be just enough tension to make the wheel turn. Any more puts extra stress on the motor. The Singer manual shows the oiling point for the winder -- I guess it's just where the spindle meets the winder. On some machines there is a little hole, but there may not be one here.
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#8
Miriam, I checked the bobbin winder on my 15-91 and it really moves freely when I spin it manually. The 185 definitely does NOT...you mentioned using heat...can you give me a few more details? I pulled the fly wheel off with Rains help on the videos and it seems ok inside. Thanks!
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 476
Put some tri-flow or sewing machine oil between the post/spindle and the winder housing (sorry I don't have the technical terms for those parts). Since you don't seem to have an oil hole there, put the oil as close as you can get it. If you have a syringe with a needle that would be helpful but isn't necessary. If the machine is not in a cab, you could tilt it a bit and that might let gravity help the oil flow into that crevice. Then just keep rotating the winder to help the oil move around and do its job. Don't get oil on the belt or the bobbin tire because oil degrades rubber. A lot of people use a hair dryer to speed things up, but I personally haven't tried that. I also use WD-40 or liquid wrench in situations like this, but others might disagree. (Be careful not to get either of those on rubber parts, either).
Did you check the belt tension? Because even if it's not causing your problem, it's important that it's not too tight. Rain's video is about what to do when the needle still moves after you turn the stop-motion knob. Are you having that problem too?
Did you check the belt tension? Because even if it's not causing your problem, it's important that it's not too tight. Rain's video is about what to do when the needle still moves after you turn the stop-motion knob. Are you having that problem too?
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 476
I'm sure you've figured this out, but here's the spot. This picture leads me to believe that there is no oil hole so you have to oil the crevice and keep turning the spindle to get it to flow inside. It may take some time. I don't necessarily recommend this because others might yell at me, but I would probably squirt wd40 in there, AFTER wrapping the area and the nozzle/straw in a thick rag to prevent the wd40 from going anywhere else besides that crevice. In addition to degrading rubber, WD40 might harm the clear coat or paint (not sure, it hasn't happened to me yet, but I'm careful not to get it on paint). Others also say it leaves a residue --- I don't know. After WD 40, then oil. But the oil alone should do it. I don't like the smell of WD40, but I sometimes use it because I'm impatient.
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