I Might Have Found My First Treadle - a 15-90.
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
The cabinet can be disassembled into several pieces. I've carried a treadle in a little ZX2 (think early 2000s "sporty" Escort), in 3 pieces (top, legs and head). If I'd had more time, I could have broken it down into 7 pieces, but the shop was closing and I was parked inside their gated lot.
Most Singer cabinets will break down into several pieces.
You did well on the machine for sure though.
Most Singer cabinets will break down into several pieces.
You did well on the machine for sure though.
although the machine is frozen, i gave it a good oil bath this morning. i will see how it goes later.
#22
I did see some rust in various spots, but I think that the hated Tri-Flow would take care of 95 - 99% of any issues with "frozen" parts on that machine. Realistically speaking, most Singers are "loose" compared to a lot of the other brands and it's really easy to free them up.
Unless you're driving a Smart car, I think you should be just fine, as long as you take a couple of good screwdrivers with you.
Unless you're driving a Smart car, I think you should be just fine, as long as you take a couple of good screwdrivers with you.
#23
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
I did see some rust in various spots, but I think that the hated Tri-Flow would take care of 95 - 99% of any issues with "frozen" parts on that machine. Realistically speaking, most Singers are "loose" compared to a lot of the other brands and it's really easy to free them up.
Unless you're driving a Smart car, I think you should be just fine, as long as you take a couple of good screwdrivers with you.
Unless you're driving a Smart car, I think you should be just fine, as long as you take a couple of good screwdrivers with you.
there's rust all over the machine. even the bobbin case is rusty. and the mistake i did was to borrow a plier and forced open the back cover plate. sure enough the locking screw (hand tight screw) flew all over because i broke it in half. the other half is sitting deep down there. no idea how to take it out. lesson learned again. thanks bud.
#24
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Remove the broken screw by securing the SM on a drill press, and slowly, with lubricant, drilling out the screw. You may need to level it or use a dremel to grind a little divot to work like a centerdrill. Ideally you could user an "easy out" to back out the remainder of the screw.
In the future remember to go easy, patience, coax things-don't force it.
In the future remember to go easy, patience, coax things-don't force it.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
Remove the broken screw by securing the SM on a drill press, and slowly, with lubricant, drilling out the screw. You may need to level it or use a dremel to grind a little divot to work like a centerdrill. Ideally you could user an "easy out" to back out the remainder of the screw.
In the future remember to go easy, patience, coax things-don't force it.
In the future remember to go easy, patience, coax things-don't force it.
Last edited by vmaniqui; 01-17-2014 at 07:58 PM.
#26
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
The screw may be harder than the surrounding metal, causing it to drift off center. Grind it as flat as possible, then get a cone point stone for your dremel to drill a starter divot. Then, with lubricant, proceed to drill carefully with a good quality 1/16" bit or maybe a little bigger. You just want to avoid chewing up the threads. Or if you do, you can then learn about heli-coil inserts. (thread repair inserts, and not cheap and good luck locating one to exactly replace Singer on standard screw threads)
#29
It may be possible to buy a heli-coil for this, but they're not cheap, or easy to find that small.
Sometimes, if the threads are just the tiniest bit munged, you can clean them up with the tap, as long as you can thread it in the first bit, to make sure you go in the same way instead of just mashing the rest out of the way. DH cleans up threads that way on lots of things DFIL has touched.
Ooops. That last part maybe should have been my inside voice.
I love when that happens!! I had that happen when I had to drill out the bolt for my side stand on my KTM. I thought I was in for hours. It was about 10 minutes.
#30
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Put some oil on it and walk away from that part of the machine for several days to give the oil a chance to penetrate. If you need specialty hardware try McMaster-Carr online. I use them. They have a huge selection, prices are competitive and they're great to work with.
Drilling anything that small with a hand-held drill is tricky at best. Find a friend with a drill press and use a new (sharp) drill bit. Try to either grind or center punch the screw to start the bit in the center. The cast-iron machine is going to be softer than the broken screw and your bit will want to wander. If you're lucky the screw will thread out like CD said. Worst case is you mess up the hole and end up drilling and tapping it for a larger non-original screw.
Even with needing a little extra work $30 was a great deal for that machine. I never see model 15s of any series that cheap here.
Rodney
Drilling anything that small with a hand-held drill is tricky at best. Find a friend with a drill press and use a new (sharp) drill bit. Try to either grind or center punch the screw to start the bit in the center. The cast-iron machine is going to be softer than the broken screw and your bit will want to wander. If you're lucky the screw will thread out like CD said. Worst case is you mess up the hole and end up drilling and tapping it for a larger non-original screw.
Even with needing a little extra work $30 was a great deal for that machine. I never see model 15s of any series that cheap here.
Rodney