I need to pick someone's brain - Atlas Machine
06-30-2013, 12:40 PM
#1
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I need to pick someone's brain - Atlas Machine
I broke my new SInger and now need to use this old machine a friend gave me with no manual. My Google and Bing searches only bring up the Pink Atlas.
Problem is, I am sure it needs oil, I have no idea how to thread it properly. It is an Atlas Model 326 made in Korea for Southern Sewing Machine Dist, Kenner, Louisiana.
Here are a couple pics, I know it is a clone of something and am hoping some recognizes it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]421896[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]421897[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]421898[/ATTACH]
Problem is, I am sure it needs oil, I have no idea how to thread it properly. It is an Atlas Model 326 made in Korea for Southern Sewing Machine Dist, Kenner, Louisiana.
Here are a couple pics, I know it is a clone of something and am hoping some recognizes it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]421896[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]421897[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]421898[/ATTACH]
06-30-2013, 07:43 PM
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Tracy,
Just some basic instructions because I don't have one of those machines to look over.
Oil: Remove the top. It's held on either by screws or spring clips.
Oil everything that moves or looks like it should move. ( I suggest using Tri-Flow oil. )
There will be oil holes at the front and rear of the main shaft and maybe the middle.
If there are metal gears use either Singer gear lube or Tri-Flow grease on them, no oil.
If plastic gears, well, some should not be lubed, some should, and I have no way of knowing which is which so I take the chance and lightly grease them with Tri-Flow grease. So far, so good. Use no oil on plastic gears.
Open the face plate, same as above, oil everything that moves or should move.
Underneath the bed same as above.
Pay attention to all the little holes on the machine. If they don't have threads, they're most likely oil holes - - oil 'em.
Don't be timid with the oil. Any excess can be wiped off.
Threading:
Make sure the presser foot is up.
From the spool across to the rear thread guide, then across to the front thread guide.
Then down to the right side of the top tension. Make sure you have the thread between the disks.
Around the bottom and up the left side, under the hook, then back to the left under the thread check spring. ( The hook and spring might be different, I can't tell from your pic, you'll figure it out.)
From the spring up to the thread take up lever and through the TU lever from right to left.
Down through all the thread guides to the needle. The needle looks as if it would go in flat to the right, so you thread it left to right. ( You can use a small mirror to check the needle orientation ).
This machine looks like it has a left homing needle when set on straight stitch, so be watchful of what presser feet you use.
Hope this helps some.
Joe
Just some basic instructions because I don't have one of those machines to look over.
Oil: Remove the top. It's held on either by screws or spring clips.
Oil everything that moves or looks like it should move. ( I suggest using Tri-Flow oil. )
There will be oil holes at the front and rear of the main shaft and maybe the middle.
If there are metal gears use either Singer gear lube or Tri-Flow grease on them, no oil.
If plastic gears, well, some should not be lubed, some should, and I have no way of knowing which is which so I take the chance and lightly grease them with Tri-Flow grease. So far, so good. Use no oil on plastic gears.
Open the face plate, same as above, oil everything that moves or should move.
Underneath the bed same as above.
Pay attention to all the little holes on the machine. If they don't have threads, they're most likely oil holes - - oil 'em.
Don't be timid with the oil. Any excess can be wiped off.
Threading:
Make sure the presser foot is up.
From the spool across to the rear thread guide, then across to the front thread guide.
Then down to the right side of the top tension. Make sure you have the thread between the disks.
Around the bottom and up the left side, under the hook, then back to the left under the thread check spring. ( The hook and spring might be different, I can't tell from your pic, you'll figure it out.)
From the spring up to the thread take up lever and through the TU lever from right to left.
Down through all the thread guides to the needle. The needle looks as if it would go in flat to the right, so you thread it left to right. ( You can use a small mirror to check the needle orientation ).
This machine looks like it has a left homing needle when set on straight stitch, so be watchful of what presser feet you use.
Hope this helps some.
Joe
07-01-2013, 03:27 AM
#3
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07-01-2013, 04:41 AM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Thank you, this is very helpful. What I have noticed is that there are 2 thread guides on the top of the machine and each of them has two holes, one closed hole and one slotted hole. That is the part that has me baffled. I have tried threading them closed through open hole and vice versa, but the thread never stays in the slotted hole anyway! I have a grip on the generic fundamentals of threading the older machines, winding the bobbins, etc. So far I have been able to sew with it having intermittent tension problems, for instance, inch or so tight on top then on bottom, most notable when slowing down the stitching. The foot pedal is a bit tight, or maybe sensitive? Gently press and machine takes off!
I appreciate everyone's input. For sure this is a sturdy little machine. Makes me sick how much I paid for my Singer last year and mostly plastic!
I appreciate everyone's input. For sure this is a sturdy little machine. Makes me sick how much I paid for my Singer last year and mostly plastic!
07-01-2013, 02:06 PM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,506
Tracy, I would imagine you will need to take apart the tension and put it back together. It may have a set screw holding the big knob on. Then very carefully take it apart - photo or take note of positions, etc. Take a Qtip and clean the check spring with rubbing alcohol. Then clean each piece as you put it back. The old oil, lint and grime mess up a tension. Some manuals tell how they go but I'm thinking that generic doesn't. It is a kind of thing you have to kind of get a feel for it. Tammi has blog posts about tensions: http://www.archaicarcane.com/fragile...-equal-stress/ & http://www.archaicarcane.com/bobbin-...obbin-tension/ she has other info on her blog as well.
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