twinkie

Good thing you found the bobbin case because it is expensive to replace it.

Raine54RN

Go online and go to featherweight Rx the gentleman that posts the site can help you get started. There is a book and video you can buy and literally take the machine apart. It really isn't hard, he is very explicit. Also if you don't understand he has offered to walk me through stuff. You can get some parts from him but there are other sometimes less expensive sources. I've had my FW a short time literally weeks, but Ive found it easy to work on. I don't work for him . When I wrote to this board about caring for my machine it was suggested to learn myself. Many owners do, and it's difficult to find someone that does work on them I have found. It will be a labor of love, but I bet you can do it!

cherylrom

Melissa,

http://www.featherweight221.com/fwrx/index.html

Dave McCallum is absolutely wonderful and well know for restoring Featherweights. He will answer questions on the phone (yes, a real person on a real phone) and spend time with you. He has written a book and made a very professional DVD - right now free shipping too. From experience I can tell you this is the best money you will spend for your FW. My FW was like your mother's - after some hours of elbow grease and encouragement from Dave, I absolutely love my FW, and I did it all myself. I did not know about anyone else, and with the above info from Dave, I would not hesitate to sell mine for $900!!! and know I was selling a good product. That's how much I love my "Miss Kay"! Treat yourself in memory of your mother. She would be so proud of you!

papagrandma12

I agree with cherylrom. I used Dave McCallum's book and DVD to restore my 1930's featherweight, Irma. I had a problem with the finish on my machine, emailed Dave and he called me to help me solve my problem. His book and video also help you to restore the case. I use my featherweight all the time.

mpeters1200

So fast forward 6 months and I'm finally getting off my bootie to fix up this machine. It helps that I reorganized my sewing room and on purpose put mom's machine where it will constantly be in the way. Keeps it at the forefront of my mind.

I've watched all of Muv's videos. Gosh, those are amazing! A couple questions though, is metal polish something only available in the UK? Is it something I can get at the hardware store to polish up the metal on the machine? Also, does it matter what color the sewing machine oil is. What I use on the rest of my machines are clear, but the guy who runs the vintage machine shop in town only uses yellow.

I got her out last night and showed her to my girlfriend. She couldn't believe after all these years it's not rusty or tough to move nor does it get stuck anywhere. All the parts that should move do.

I'm getting closer!

pennycandy

Try the hardware store for metal polish. My dh has some Nevr-Dull that I used on my 66 that worked very well. I'm not sure where he purchased it. It may have been at Walmart or an auto parts place.

http://www.nevrdull.com/

Sheluma

"Regular" good-quality sewing machine oil is clear. It's a first choice to clean the finish, and to remove gunk. It is the most gentle cleaner, so try it before anything else. You can also use it to oil the machine once you're done with the cleaning, but tri-flow is better. About the yellow oil, I'm not sure what that is -- maybe synthetic? Possibly dyed so that you can tell the difference? I would ask that guy. Or maybe someone here knows?

I'm really curious (or nosy) -- where was the bobbin case??

The job is not hard, but set aside some time and just try to remove as much gunk from the machine as possible. About cleaning the paint and polishing the metal -- these things are cosmetic and don't affect the running of the machine, so I like to do them last. Be careful not to use alcohol on the paint because it dissolves the clear coat. The clear coat protects the remaining decals. So far I've only used oil on the paint. I've seen some people use castile soap or dishwashing liquid on decals, while others say water-based cleaners are bad. It's very confusing. One thing everyone agrees on is that you should test a cleaner in an inconspicuous spot first. But since the FW doesn't have showy decals, maybe oil will work just fine. It is the safest thing. Use soft cotton rags or cotton balls for cleaning the paint. Microfiber rags are not good because they are somewhat abrasive.

One last thing -- be careful not to get oil on the wires. Rain has a good tutorial for oiling the FW, but he missed one spot on the underside, on the left. Actually he probably didn't miss it in real life, but it's hiding from the camera. Put a small drop of oil in each spot where metal rubs against metal. Turn the hand wheel and look for these spots. You can do it without the tutorial, but the tutorial is nice, especially for the warning about the spots near the wires. For lubing the gears you can use Singer lube, petroleum jelly, or tri-flow lube.
Rain's oiling tutorial:
http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/07/ho...sing.html#more

Rain also has a favorite metal polish --- I forget what it is, but you can search his blog.

I think your mom's machine is in great shape considering that she made all your clothes. (Pics are in another thread.) The FW was also our family machine. My mom didn't make many garments on it, but she did make me a beautiful fancy dress when I was 13. She used it mainly for altering and mending, and I learned to sew on it and made a bunch of things. When I was a teenager I abused it by sewing denim and leather. It is not nearly in as nice shape as yours. Your mom took good care of it!

mpeters1200

That's a fantastic tute and just what I was looking for oiling of the machine. Thank you!