Candace

I know you're trying to be humorous, but serger thread is not thread I'd use for an heirloom quilt or really any project that would need 4 or 5 layers of strength. All thread is not created the same. It's like using finishing nails instead of screws on a deck project.

Hopefully it's not serger thread, Joe. I hear about people using cheap, serger thread in their quilts and it makes me cringe. Compare it to a Maxilock type thread(runs about a buck a large cone on sale, so that should give you an idea of quality;>) and see if it's the same kind of thread.

Sure, businesses will use Maxilock because i's CHEAP. Means they make more money. Will it hold up for 10, 15 years? Doubtful and I wouldn't hire any longarmer who uses it. Really it comes down to is the thread a good quality. If it is use it..

From Superior Threads site:
Serger thread plays a critical role in our sewing world today. It is different than regular sewing machine thread and serves a different purpose most of the time. It is important that if you are using a serger thread, that you use a quality thread to maximize its potential. Serger thread is fine and thin. It differs from most traditional sewing machine thread in that way. The reason is because of the many tension discs, thread guides and loops or holes that the thread must pass through in order to have an overlock or serger stitch accomplished. It is therefore critical that the serger thread be mercerized which means that it has been tightly bound and had any loose fibers singed off. This makes it smooth, slightly shiny and free of lint and loose fibers.
serger threadsSerger thread must also have a small amount of elasticity to it in order to glide easily through the serger without causing tension problems. The thread for your serger should also be crosswound which means that it sill come off of the spool without any difficulty or tightness. If there are pauses or pulling in any way, your stitches will be uneven.
Last of all, it is critical that you find a thread for your serger that matches the fabric color that you will be using it for. It is tacky and unsightly to have an item sewn and serged with the wrong color thread. Your sewing projects will be of a higher quality if you stick to quality thread and matching color. Serger thread can be found in many places and will continually provide a good, even stitch if quality is adhered to first. Be sure that your serger is meant for the type of thread you put through it by checking the user’s manual for details.

J Miller

Pictures of the goodies from the first GW box today:
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Two Singer boxes with lots of feet. Two low shank feet and a bunch of slant shank feet. Some are genuine Singer, some are unmarked. But all fit our 401.
A couple sets of needle plates, not sure what they fit but are Singer and some parts for a T&S 756.

A Kenmore Button box with the button holler and the drive unit for a free arm machine. Plus a few Kenmore LS feet and a manual.
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The knife I mentioned above is on the middle box.

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A fancy HighZoot Singer button hole foot, the likes of I've never seen before.

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A Dritz accessory that I think is a button hole foot of some sort. I've never seen one before so I'm only guessing.
The two wire like things on the back side unlatch from the right side then pivot on the hinge pin on the left. No idea how that would work or what it will do.

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And 60,000 yards of pretty blue thread. Of course my Vise President of Materials Acquisition, Pollyanna, had to inspect them. She says they're good to go.


BOX NO. 2 came several hours later.
This will be a small lesson on how to acquire the good properly made vintage bobbins for our older machines.

The items were well packed in a box about 50% too big, but nothing was broken.
The info at GW did not show the bottle, but the bobbins came in it.
This is the GW link: { http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions...-19256387.html }
Go look at the pics and study them. This is how you learn to recognize vintage bobbins. There are two basic bunches with a couple non Singer types.
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The Bottle is an old vintage/antique Borden's Malted Milk bottle made by Anchor Hocking. Nice old bottle.
The bobbins are mostly vintage Class 66 with 4 non Singer Bobbins.
Here's a closer view of the bobbins:
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The two bobbins on the far left are shaped kind of like 66s and marked USA on the rims, but they are not Singer bobbins.
The two bobbins to the right are Elna bobbins marked GERMANY.
The large group of 32 are vintage Singer three piece Class 66 bobbins.
The small group of 14 to the right are much older three piece Singer bobbins with only one hole on each side.

If you study the bobbins in this pic and other pics closely you can teach yourself how to recognize the difference between the new imported stuff and the original Singer bobbins. One tip off is the new stuff is much shinier, it just looks a bit cheaper.

All in all a good goodies day.


Joe

J Miller

Candace,

I compared the thread we got today to a cone of Maxi-Lock serger thread. Both made by the same company, that's rare. Here's what the labels inside the cone read:

Maxi-Lock cone:

Manufacturer: American & Efrid Inc. Mt. Holly, N.C. 28120
Thread material: 100% Polyester

MAXI-LOCK

3000 YDS
Size: TEX 27
B in a circle Poppy Red

Blue thread cone:

Manufacturer: American & Efrid Inc. Mt. Holly, N.C. 28120
Thread material: POLY WRAP POLY

PERMA CORE

6000 YDS
Size: TEX 40
A in a circle Blue 16


So, what ever this blue thread is, it's heavier and of a different construction than the normal serger thread we have.
From the chart I have been able to find, it's about equivalent to size 40 thread.

Joe

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joe on the thread take some time and read this, I'm sure you know of Bonnie Hunter.

http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2009/...-thoughts.html

as I've said I drove a big truck for 15 yrs, doing this I sent days in most every type manufactring plant you can think of, you wait, for them to load your trailer, this may take a full day. so you walk around watching.. what an eye opener as to who make what and which labels go on the product..

as you just said, so many items are the very same thing, just sports a different label and sold at different prices via that label.

take thread. no there no different it all comes off the same mega huge roll that was hipped in from china. as in a 2 1/2 ton roll. x amount goes to maxilock x amount goes to superior or bottom line or coats so on.

paper products same thing . canned food is about the worst for this.

Candace

Joe, I think you lucked out with the thread and it's not the spun poly cr*p. If it's wrapped poly, it's a better thread. Bottom line thread is 100% nicer than Maxilock, so I really can't take Bonnie's comments on thread as gospel. Spun poly is different than wrapped poly. And I would never spend hundreds of dollars on a longarmer who's using Maxilock. Of course, I can't see myself paying to have a quilt quilted anyway. LOL.

Rodney

Nice haul Joe!
Rodney

J Miller

We went to the makers web site and learned quite a bit. I could be wrong but what I gathered from reading the specs on this thread is that it's pretty much equivalent to normal sewing thread. OK with sergers but also meant for regular machines. I hope I got that right.

Anyway, well give it a try sometime soon.

Joe

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Thats what it is joe,,,,, also might check the reviews on it. I've done a good 12 kings with it never an issues, but I do a little different sewing method than most do.. each seam ends up being is sewn 3 x's, then it's quilted.

It's just like any other hobby you can always buy big,better more costly.

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so whats the knife ? can't really see it. I got a tiny pocket knife out of a machine, holds a great edge, now it's the very best seam ripper even.. 2" blade, ivory looking handle , imperial brand, made in Prov Ri . I'm sure you have seen these,

J Miller

10X,


I don't think it's a top of line fancy knife, but it's sharp and really handy. And rather than Chinese junk, it's Japanese whatever. It will make a dandy seam ripper for sure.

Here's a couple better pics:
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Now, about that bronzy colored Dritz gadget, got any ideas what it is?

Joe