SteveH

CD, is there a reason why a patcher would not be good for that?

Glenn

Rodney glad to see you are back in the shop. Let us see the bases and top you are making. And CD you have more talent than I when it comes to sewing like this patch. Nice work.

Skip

Rodney

The bases I'm building are pretty similar to the tute I did a while back, actually a little simpler. They're just functional. I got a little bit of scrap birch plywood that I was able to build a couple to fit full size Singers and Japanese machines with.
I'll post pics of the Streamliner and it's case when I'm done.
Rodney

Sewnoma

I need to learn some woodworking basics and get over my nervousness around power saws - I need a few bases too and they don't look THAT hard to build. I've seen some really nice ones for sale online but a handmade nice wooden base sells for more than I paid for the machine in the first place! I'm sure I can build SOMETHING functional - probably not nearly as pretty, but paint hides a lot...

miriam

CD I've never see a foot like that.

ThayerRags

My patcher with flatbed attachment would work nearly as well, and would have been my second choice of machines for this back patch. I have used a patcher for feather-tip embroidered patches on sleeves and over pockets in the past. There are two things that the roller foot does better than the patcher on a back patch. The foot of the patcher can sometimes block vision of the edge satin stitch that needs to be followed, and the feed becomes a challenge for precise needle placement too. Manipulation of the omni-directional feed is critical, and while I’m getting better at it, there are still times when I have to stop, raise the presser bar (hand lever), and re-position to get the needle where it’s needed.

The roller foot and knee lever of the 31-15 gives me better control of needle placement, since it’s much easier to vary the stitch length to fit the path of the stitch line. Uniform stitch length works against you when following a stitch line like this. The patcher will feed the same stitch length every stitch, and many times, that makes the stitch cut across a sharp turn instead of following the turn, both inside and outside turns. By setting the rolling presser foot of the 31-15 to a fairly loose pressure, it’s easier to move the jacket by hand (against the normal feed) to adjust the stitch length to bend around the turn. Think of it as nearly darning instead of sewing. Over-riding the feed when needed is important.

The small roller foot is a Simanco #12264.

CD in Oklahoma

Rodney

Probably the most important tool is a good tablesaw. They just make things so much easier and safer than a handheld power saw. A basic base is very simple to build. Accurate measuring and cutting are most important. Sounds familiar doesn't it? It's a hobby in itself but most of my woodworking tools are vintage too. Like sewing machines, the quality tends to be better on the older stuff.
Rodney

Mornigstar

Wow, what a long thread. I am working on a light blue leather jacket repair on my sleeve so should have gone to that Kemore 158 9411 that I finally got working as I think it may sew through the leather ok. Otherwise I will be on here asking info on sewing leather.

Rodney

Get some leather needles. They're shaped to cut through the leather.
Rodney

elnan

And, well you might be asking for info to sew leather. Since holes punched in leather don't close in like cloth, most people who repair seams in leather will try to put their needle holes exactly in the holes left from the original stitching. CD was sewing a decal on the back of a leather jacket, covering new ground. If you repair the seam and don't intend to use the original needle holes, I suggest folding a piece of twill tape over the seam and sewing through that. Remember too, that a special type of glue is often used in leather garments. Instead of back-tacking, I'd leave enough thread to tie off. CD is the expert on sewing leather, ask him.