The Machine That I Fiddled With Today
08-21-2014, 08:00 AM
#451
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Wi
Posts: 9,232
If you didn't show us the repair we would never know.
I've been messing with my daughter's Singer 99k again-the one I bent the needlebar and broke the linkage on. I have an older 99 here that I robbed the needlebar parts from to finish her machine. It turns out that needlebar was very slightly bent too, just enough to cause some binding in the bore. I took it out again, hit it with a hammer gently to try to straighten it some then chucked it in my daughter's wood lathe and sanded the bar a bit with some 400 grit sandpaper, not a lot, just enough to polish it a bit. I put it back in and while not perfect, the fit is much better than before. It seems either I got lucky or the timing just falls into place on these machines. It's stitching pretty well with no adjustments.
There are one or two things left to do but the machine is pretty much finished. I lost the screw for the bobbin winder guide on the machine's bed and my older machine uses a different setup so I couldn't rob that one. I also need to pop a new bobbin winder tire on. I have one, I just need to find it.
The daughter is at camp this week so she hasn't seen the machine yet.
Here's the (nearly) completed machine:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]488312[/ATTACH]
It's the machine I made the mahogany case for. I also did some work replacing the badly damaged clear coat. That repair shows. It's not perfectly smooth like the original but at least the decals are protected.
Rodney
I've been messing with my daughter's Singer 99k again-the one I bent the needlebar and broke the linkage on. I have an older 99 here that I robbed the needlebar parts from to finish her machine. It turns out that needlebar was very slightly bent too, just enough to cause some binding in the bore. I took it out again, hit it with a hammer gently to try to straighten it some then chucked it in my daughter's wood lathe and sanded the bar a bit with some 400 grit sandpaper, not a lot, just enough to polish it a bit. I put it back in and while not perfect, the fit is much better than before. It seems either I got lucky or the timing just falls into place on these machines. It's stitching pretty well with no adjustments.
There are one or two things left to do but the machine is pretty much finished. I lost the screw for the bobbin winder guide on the machine's bed and my older machine uses a different setup so I couldn't rob that one. I also need to pop a new bobbin winder tire on. I have one, I just need to find it.
The daughter is at camp this week so she hasn't seen the machine yet.
Here's the (nearly) completed machine:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]488312[/ATTACH]
It's the machine I made the mahogany case for. I also did some work replacing the badly damaged clear coat. That repair shows. It's not perfectly smooth like the original but at least the decals are protected.
Rodney
08-24-2014, 12:41 PM
#452
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
The machine hinge screw holes on the Singer Treadle that I got at auction yesterday have been stripped out, larger screws inserted, and one of them is now even stripped out. I want to go back to the normal screw size.
If I haven’t said it before, I really do suck at cabinetry work. I just never got into woodwork much, and it simply doesn’t appeal to me. With that said, I am trying a solution to the stripped-out screw holes on this cabinet that is new to me, and possibly everyone else too. Formerly, I would have broken a couple of pieces of toothpick off into the hole and tried to jam the screw in with them, but that doesn’t always remain a tight connection, especially if the screw is moved for any reason. So, with limited resources here in my Bike Shop, I decided to fill the holes and re-drill them later.
First, I stuck a piece of masking tape to the underside of each screw hole. Then, since I didn’t have any wood powder, I mixed a small amount of Carpenter’s Yellow Wood Glue and ground walnut shells in a paper cup. The walnut shells are what the wife uses to fill her pincushions that she makes. The shells are about the consistency of large-ground salad pepper. Then, I filled each hole with the mixture by sort of “tamping it in” with a small flat toothpick. I didn’t overfill the holes, so that I can still see the center of the hole to drill them out once the wood glue has had time to cure.
I’ll let you know how it comes out in a couple of days....
CD in Oklahoma
If I haven’t said it before, I really do suck at cabinetry work. I just never got into woodwork much, and it simply doesn’t appeal to me. With that said, I am trying a solution to the stripped-out screw holes on this cabinet that is new to me, and possibly everyone else too. Formerly, I would have broken a couple of pieces of toothpick off into the hole and tried to jam the screw in with them, but that doesn’t always remain a tight connection, especially if the screw is moved for any reason. So, with limited resources here in my Bike Shop, I decided to fill the holes and re-drill them later.
First, I stuck a piece of masking tape to the underside of each screw hole. Then, since I didn’t have any wood powder, I mixed a small amount of Carpenter’s Yellow Wood Glue and ground walnut shells in a paper cup. The walnut shells are what the wife uses to fill her pincushions that she makes. The shells are about the consistency of large-ground salad pepper. Then, I filled each hole with the mixture by sort of “tamping it in” with a small flat toothpick. I didn’t overfill the holes, so that I can still see the center of the hole to drill them out once the wood glue has had time to cure.
I’ll let you know how it comes out in a couple of days....
CD in Oklahoma
08-24-2014, 01:25 PM
#453
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
CD, the best way to repair a damage screw hole is to drill out the hole and place a hard wood dowel glued in place cut flush with the top. Let cure for 24 hours pre drill and screw down and it will hold.I usually use a 3/8" dowel for this.
08-24-2014, 01:32 PM
#454
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Your method sounds good to me CD. Sawdust would work too.
I think for what you described your repair will work far better than the toothpick solution and will be plenty strong enough.
Glenn's method is the strongest way though.It may be trickier to use Glenn's method in the recesses that are cut out for the lollipop hinges. If your repair doesn't hold it's not a big deal to change it.
Rodney
EDIT Removed the repeat due to Glenn types faster than me.
I think for what you described your repair will work far better than the toothpick solution and will be plenty strong enough.
Glenn's method is the strongest way though.It may be trickier to use Glenn's method in the recesses that are cut out for the lollipop hinges. If your repair doesn't hold it's not a big deal to change it.
Rodney
EDIT Removed the repeat due to Glenn types faster than me.
Last edited by Rodney; 08-24-2014 at 01:37 PM.
08-24-2014, 02:22 PM
#455
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
As Rodney said before Edit if you make the plug going the same as the grain it will hold better but since the tops of sewing machine is laminated veneer you should have no problem with a hard wood dowel.
08-24-2014, 02:34 PM
#456
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
Thanks guys. I didn’t drill out the holes, and with the oil that migrates on these machines, my concern is that the wood glue won’t adhere to the sides of the wallowed-out hole, causing my plug to spin out on my drill bit when I re-drill. I hadn’t thought of drilling and putting in a dowel. That sounds like a better repair than my idea and I like it. Next time....
I’ll go with what I have started, and see how it goes.....
CD in Oklahoma
I’ll go with what I have started, and see how it goes.....
CD in Oklahoma
08-24-2014, 03:40 PM
#457
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,609
the oil will not penetrate thru maybe only top layer of the laminate with glue between the laminate and the hinges for the machines is a solid wood and will only migrate the top 1/16' or so. You will not have problems with the glue.
08-24-2014, 06:33 PM
#458
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Mendocino County CA
Posts: 1,976
I have a repair drying today too. I used a smaller dowel shaved down just enough to add glue and force it into the holes. The box that came with my Necchi clone can't possibly be the original box. It fit poorly and I've had to add more wood to the inside to make it fit snugly and make some better supports for the machine.
I'm not a huge fan of woodwork either CD.
I'm not a huge fan of woodwork either CD.
08-26-2014, 06:01 PM
#460
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Fabquilter which machine did you mean? If you mean my daughter's little 99 I just finished then Thank you. I got lazy though. I should have spent a little more time blocksanding it again and added another coat or two of Shellac until it was perfectly smooth. If you find Glenn's tutorial on repairing the shellac clear coat, his way will give better results with less work when done properly. I'm too heavy handed and don't seem to have the knack for it or I would have done it his way.
Rodney
Rodney
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