great white

My missus is talking about buying a Serger/thread overlocker.

I've got a general disdain for anything new in sewing machines, but don't know a lot about Sergers. But the ones I can find used all seem to be around mid 80's. Hardly the same quality as my 50's-late 60's sewing machines.

I know a guy who has a Singer 14u64a he's willing to let go at what seems a very good price when compared to the general used market for Sergers. An 80's model from what I can gather. It will be a long distance private purchase, so I have to take his word on condition.

Absolutely no price comparison at all when comparing to the price of a new one.

Basically, skip the ex-large pizza, salad and drinks for Friday night take out and we can pay for it.

As far as servicing, timing and repairs go I have no problems getting in there. As long as I can get parts as needed that is. Even then, I can usually build/repair parts that aren't available any more.

I would appreciate any opinions or advice anyone can offer on these models like: hard to find needles? they work like crap? Problems or wear common to the model? What it can and can't due because it's older? Best machine I ever owned? works great? I can't do "x" with it? etc...

I've already figured out it doesn't have "differential feed" like the newer models. Not sure if that matters or not because I have no idea what it means or is for.

I'm thinking it will mainly end up being used for edge binding on tablecloths, blankets, drapes, fleece dog coats, etc. We don't make clothes for ourselves.

We do repair our clothes though. Not sure if would be any good for that. At least, more so than our current straight stitch machines.

Any opinions or comparisons to similar Singer machines would probably also be helpful. IE: Singer 14u34, etc.

NJ Quilter

Can't speak to Singer models. I did buy a used serger from CL a couple of years ago. Did a fair amount of researching beforehand for features. 4 thread or more is better. Differential feed IS important as it allows for more varieties of overcasting stitches, rolled hems (think napkin edges), etc. The model I bought is a brother - sorry don't recall model number specifically but is probably about the same vintage. Parts don't seem to be an issue nor are needles - they take regular machine needles typically. Threading paths are the most difficult things to understand so I would highly recommend making sure you get the manual as well. I bought an online copy that was many generations old so the thread path is almost impossible to read. The thread diagram on the inside cover of the machine is also pretty unreadable due to some water damage. BUT the machine does sew very well. I got it for a good price. Worth the service fee to have the tension discs re-set, the threading done correctly, etc. Also ended up finding a class for about $30 that was invaluable. Lots of books included and the best piece of advice - write down your starting settings before doing ANYTHING. Then, with each project, write down your tension settings for each path as well cuz you'll never remember them from one time to the next.

Good luck!

Tartan

Some people didn't use their old sergers because they were hard to thread. If possible, buy an automatic threading serger.

Candace

Exactly as Tartan said. The older sergers can be a big pain to thread. I have a 10 year old Janome Compulock and even it is a big chore to thread. The newer ones are automatic and air threaded. I love my vintage machines, but if they were as difficult to use as some of the old sergers, I'd never use them.

Macybaby

I have a Viking 530 bought in 1980 and it's still going strong.

Mine is a four thread, though I use it more often as a three thread as I use it mostly for finishing raw edges than seaming. I remove the inner needle when using it as a three thread also.

Mine is not automatically threading. I cut the threads off from the spool, tie on the new thread and pull them through. I do have to cut and thread the one that goes through the needle, as the knot won't pull through that. But I pull it all the way to the needle.

I'd have to take out the book to actually thread the machine.

BTW - a long, bent tip tweezers is a valuable tool for threading a serge. It's not difficult as to where thread goes - but in getting your fingers in the right spot to grab the end and pull it through.

Candace

I do the same as you, but that doesn't help when a thread breaks or if you need to switch from 3 to 4 to 5 threads on occasion. It's still a royal pain to thread an old serger.

great white

Not really worried about difficulty threading.

The reliability, usefulness and function of the machine is more my concern.

Sure, it looks a bit more involved under the needle plate than a normal sewing machine, but not too bad either. Time and practice makes all things easier.

To spend 50 bucks instead of several hundred we'll learn to deal with it just fine.

I can't see us using it for much more than edge binding anyways. Mostly cold weather dog clothing, towels and the like.

barny

I have an old serger and it is really a pain to thread, takes me at least an hour. But it sews great and I use it to finish pant hems, etc, or tablecloths.

great white

Are we all talking about just threading the machine or threading and setting the tensions correctly?

Running the thread doesn't seem like a big deal from what I've been able to see in pictures. A touch more complex for sure, but certainly not challenging.

I can see setting the thread tensions correctly being a royal "pain" though....

Rodney

I don't own one yet but will be watching this thread to learn about what to look for with them. I see them fairly cheap on Shopgoodwill occasionally and am curious about them.
Rodney