My New Project - Refinishing my Antique Singer Cabinets
12-04-2013, 12:30 PM
#12
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
I never said I would not apply a finish - I just won't use Poly (short for polyurethane) on them. I have a very strong dislike for Polyshades - but I know some like it. To me it's the lazy man's way, and it does an OK job at staining and finishing, but not a good job of either. It looks pretty good in pictures over the internet . . .
For old stuff, I really like Minwax's Antique Oil - and I hand apply at least 4 coats. 6-7 is often better. Gives a deep luster without the "plastic" look of polyurethane. I've used Antique Oil on most of the wood stained trim in my house, but its' 130 years old and I wanted an older look to the finishes. It's held up very well, and you can easily apply another coat to freshen it up as it will soften and blend with the existing finish. For a harder surface, I'll use General Finishes Salad Bowl. I used that on my baking center countertops and table, and loved the way it turned out - and it's very durable.
Polyurethane layers do not combine - each layer is separate - just sand through from one to the lower and see what kind of rings you can get! I find Poly rather unforgiving and a pain to work with - except you can get a durable finish with only one or two coats.
For old stuff, I really like Minwax's Antique Oil - and I hand apply at least 4 coats. 6-7 is often better. Gives a deep luster without the "plastic" look of polyurethane. I've used Antique Oil on most of the wood stained trim in my house, but its' 130 years old and I wanted an older look to the finishes. It's held up very well, and you can easily apply another coat to freshen it up as it will soften and blend with the existing finish. For a harder surface, I'll use General Finishes Salad Bowl. I used that on my baking center countertops and table, and loved the way it turned out - and it's very durable.
Polyurethane layers do not combine - each layer is separate - just sand through from one to the lower and see what kind of rings you can get! I find Poly rather unforgiving and a pain to work with - except you can get a durable finish with only one or two coats.
12-04-2013, 01:21 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 8,146
no, plain stain will do nothing to seal the wood, just changes color. Having said that, you can get products that are stain/sealer or perservative for things like decks and exterior surfaces. You can also seal it with products such as tung or mineral oil
With a bit more work on your part, you can end up with a beautiful cabinet.
The antique oil is more durable and easy enough to apply, about the easiest of anything I've used. It just take several coats. You spread it on with a cloth, let it sit five minutes and then buff it until it's not tacky anymore. Let dry 24 hours and apply again - each coat will deepen the luster as you are creating a smooth finish.
I've only gotten around to three sewing cabinet so far. And I've got one in pieces down in the basement. Most of my experience comes from doing all the woodwork and cabinetry in our house -though we have painted cabinets in the master bath and kitchen, and unfinished cedar in the second bath.
The best advantage I have is a shop full of higher end woodworking tools. I have a great Festool finish sander - it is the one that comes with a vacuum unit so I can use it in the house.
Here is the one I started this spring and haven't gotten back to yet - other than to bring it inside now that it's too cold to work in the shed.
I've got some veneer repair to do -and I know that is what's holding me up right now. I have all the tools so no reason to not get to it
This is has some beautiful wood grain - should be very nice when complete
Maybe following along with your progress will get me motivated.
This cabinet is sealed with Antique Oil, it gives it a deep, soft glow.
These two I put GF Salad Bowl finish on. It's a much more forgiving product to use than polyurethane, but also takes about 4 coats to get a decent sheen.
I think you'll be much happier with your results if you take the time up front to do a nice job. For me, putting on the finish is enough work that it is silly to do only a half job getting to that point. It's a lot harder to make things look nicer after you've stained and applied the finish.
I also understand fully how sometimes your "give a darn" just isn't where it should be LOL!!
With a bit more work on your part, you can end up with a beautiful cabinet.
The antique oil is more durable and easy enough to apply, about the easiest of anything I've used. It just take several coats. You spread it on with a cloth, let it sit five minutes and then buff it until it's not tacky anymore. Let dry 24 hours and apply again - each coat will deepen the luster as you are creating a smooth finish.
I've only gotten around to three sewing cabinet so far. And I've got one in pieces down in the basement. Most of my experience comes from doing all the woodwork and cabinetry in our house -though we have painted cabinets in the master bath and kitchen, and unfinished cedar in the second bath.
The best advantage I have is a shop full of higher end woodworking tools. I have a great Festool finish sander - it is the one that comes with a vacuum unit so I can use it in the house.
Here is the one I started this spring and haven't gotten back to yet - other than to bring it inside now that it's too cold to work in the shed.
I've got some veneer repair to do -and I know that is what's holding me up right now. I have all the tools so no reason to not get to it
This is has some beautiful wood grain - should be very nice when complete
Maybe following along with your progress will get me motivated.
This cabinet is sealed with Antique Oil, it gives it a deep, soft glow.
These two I put GF Salad Bowl finish on. It's a much more forgiving product to use than polyurethane, but also takes about 4 coats to get a decent sheen.
I think you'll be much happier with your results if you take the time up front to do a nice job. For me, putting on the finish is enough work that it is silly to do only a half job getting to that point. It's a lot harder to make things look nicer after you've stained and applied the finish.
I also understand fully how sometimes your "give a darn" just isn't where it should be LOL!!
Last edited by Macybaby; 12-04-2013 at 01:27 PM.
12-06-2013, 03:40 PM
#14
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
an update: i think i am done stripping varnish and paint on my 16-188 and 201-2 cabinets and really to embark on the staining/painting process. on the first picture, that's my 16-188 that i orbit sanded the sides and paint stripped the varnish. it's now all clean and white. on my 201-2, i tried and checked if i could disassemble the cabinets but it looks like too much work and i might end up with the same result if i let is un-disassembled and just paint.
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