new home for a New Home
#41
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Even though I use Google docs, I can't get that page to display comfortable for my tired old eyes. Maybe on my bigger laptop. I'm making my own spreadsheet based on the machines I own and packages I own, and I'll add that info to it. I didn't see that chart listed very many of the Boye #'s, seemed to focus on Singers? I scored quite a few of those Eldredge NOS needles (70!) But it's good to remember that Boye #21's will work.
#42
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millville, NJ
Posts: 1,835
Jim,
Boye has some incorrect information on Davis needles and shuttles so there's probably a few mistakes on National, White, and New Home as well. The only reason I mention Boye needles is because this is what I most frequently see for sale. 70 Eldredge needles and your not going to use any???? Cheating the 15x1, eh?
Jon
Boye has some incorrect information on Davis needles and shuttles so there's probably a few mistakes on National, White, and New Home as well. The only reason I mention Boye needles is because this is what I most frequently see for sale. 70 Eldredge needles and your not going to use any???? Cheating the 15x1, eh?
Jon
#44
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 594
Be still my heart, I'm such a sucker for greyhounds. My Grandma had a Damascus Grand treadle which my sister uses as an end table (don't ask). But it's always a treat to see a Damascus Grand as well as Greyhounds. Most of this post has been about needles (excellent) but what type of foot fits the New Home with the top screw style? I'm looking for a darning foot for my LLC Type J.
Last edited by GreyQ; 04-29-2014 at 05:46 AM.
#45
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
My newest ebay just went back. Shipping broke the deck in front of the needle and bent it behind. Will be looking for another...was looking forward to this one..sigh...
The before pic is (was actually) the gold one in the original post.
The before pic is (was actually) the gold one in the original post.
Last edited by oldsewnsew; 04-29-2014 at 09:28 AM.
#46
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
Jim,
I'm so sorry to hear that. So scary waiting for a machine to arrive and then find damage. The next one will be perfect!
I'm so sorry to hear that. So scary waiting for a machine to arrive and then find damage. The next one will be perfect!
#47
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Hope so. So far GW has had a better success rate than EB. Unless i confine it to toys. Of course there are EBers who ship a lot of SMs & know what they're doing,& charge accordingly.
#48
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
and a couple more New Homes find a new home!
I replaced the NH that got pretty broken up in shipping, and probably paid too much, but it DID come with a pkg of 10 of the correct needles, as well as a couple extra bobbins and a manual, and a pretty nice case. Took just a bit of twiddling to get it stitching properly.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]475127[/ATTACH] and last but not least the New Home version of the Wilcox & Gibbs chainstitch, haven't decided whether to motorize with a vintage motor, or make up a hand crank that would drive a belt. [ATTACH=CONFIG]475128[/ATTACH] In the background you can see the New Home Midget. I'm looking forward to playing with the chain stitcher. I think I have pretty well filled in a collection of New Homes. My newest is an XL-II which is my only modern free arm machine. The free arm has already proven itself handy.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]475129[/ATTACH]Now if I could just find another shuttle for one of the Midget/Little Workers! Rarer than hen's teeth. I can and will make some bobbins for it.
and then there's this [ATTACH=CONFIG]475130[/ATTACH]one, and [ATTACH=CONFIG]475131[/ATTACH] the one that started the whole New Home thing.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]475127[/ATTACH] and last but not least the New Home version of the Wilcox & Gibbs chainstitch, haven't decided whether to motorize with a vintage motor, or make up a hand crank that would drive a belt. [ATTACH=CONFIG]475128[/ATTACH] In the background you can see the New Home Midget. I'm looking forward to playing with the chain stitcher. I think I have pretty well filled in a collection of New Homes. My newest is an XL-II which is my only modern free arm machine. The free arm has already proven itself handy.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]475129[/ATTACH]Now if I could just find another shuttle for one of the Midget/Little Workers! Rarer than hen's teeth. I can and will make some bobbins for it.
and then there's this [ATTACH=CONFIG]475130[/ATTACH]one, and [ATTACH=CONFIG]475131[/ATTACH] the one that started the whole New Home thing.
#49
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 15
New Home Model LLC CC1221 needle specifications in the original manual.
Hi,
I restore vintage sewing machines. I have a scarce machine that according to ISMACS was made in 1889.
The problem is that it has World War II wrinkle finish paint and that means it's 1940s or 1950s.
The bobbin race cover has a patent number on it and it says the patent was filed in 1934.
So, this machine could not be made any earlier than 1932, when the theoretically first commercial machine could have been sold.
According to New Home, this green New Home machine does not exist. Really?
The serial number is about 884000 and has a model LLC riveted plate. Underneath in the casting it says 'LLB, 201-2 and on the next line is a 2'.
So, what is this machine's model number? A Model LLC made in the USA.
I want to address the needles for this machine. Attached are images of current Singer type needles with a length of 38.78 mm or 1.527 inches (15x1) along with the recommended needle.
The original LLC manual in paper form says that the LLC takes a New Home CC1221.
The New Home manual has a photograph of the actual size and shows a needle that is 35.98 mm long, with a length to the top of eye of 30.40 mm, the 'timing length'. The eye opening is 3.99 mm (!), and the tip length is 1.62 mm. Yes, that's a 4 mm eye hole in the manual and on factory printed paper.
The height of the Singer needle from the top of the eye to the point the hook that is behind the needle is a whopping 3 to 3.5 mm as purchased this used New Home LLC.
It should be only 1.8 mm to 2.4 mm to grab the thread with the hook, IMO.
What's the difference in the longer Singer needle to the shorter New Home image length? 2.8 mm.
So a new SINGER needle is 2.8 mm too long. There are three ways to convert this machine to Singer standard needles.
1. You can raise the needle bar by 2.8 mm. If the thread guide screw prevents that, then you have to go option 2 or 3.
2. Cut 2.8 mm off the top of a new Singer needle. That's not ideal but it is a solution.
3. Run without a thread guide screw or guide. Rig some other thread guide that doesn't interfere with raising the needle bar 2.8 mm.
What needle is close to this New Home needle? A Boye 2-1/2 at 35.7 mm total length or the New Home #CC1221.
So the correct distance to raise the needle bar or shorten a Singer needle is 2.8 mm.
The feed dog should not be moving the fabric while the needle is still in the fabric. The needle should be a few millimeters minimum above the fabric before the fabric is ever moving or the feed dog timing is off.
On a Singer 478, the needle is 6-7 mm above the fabric when the top of the feed dog is flush up front with the top of the needle plate and the needle is rising.
When the needle is at the back, moving down, and the dog just starts to move down; the needle height is 3.5 to 4 mm above the needle plate top surface. When the feed dog top is flush in back with the needle plate top, the fabric is not moving forward or backwards. The needle eye hole is half way 'into' the the top of the needle plate hole but of course it is in the fabric by then, when present.
The supply house guy on youtube ignores and glosses over the dog timing as no big deal when changing timing gears. It is.
The dog does not start down when the needle just starts to go down. The dog does not start up when the needle just starts up. Your results might vary but a 478 and eight other machines say the dog moves close to that stated above.
JMO.
HTH,
Stefan
I restore vintage sewing machines. I have a scarce machine that according to ISMACS was made in 1889.
The problem is that it has World War II wrinkle finish paint and that means it's 1940s or 1950s.
The bobbin race cover has a patent number on it and it says the patent was filed in 1934.
So, this machine could not be made any earlier than 1932, when the theoretically first commercial machine could have been sold.
According to New Home, this green New Home machine does not exist. Really?
The serial number is about 884000 and has a model LLC riveted plate. Underneath in the casting it says 'LLB, 201-2 and on the next line is a 2'.
So, what is this machine's model number? A Model LLC made in the USA.
I want to address the needles for this machine. Attached are images of current Singer type needles with a length of 38.78 mm or 1.527 inches (15x1) along with the recommended needle.
The original LLC manual in paper form says that the LLC takes a New Home CC1221.
The New Home manual has a photograph of the actual size and shows a needle that is 35.98 mm long, with a length to the top of eye of 30.40 mm, the 'timing length'. The eye opening is 3.99 mm (!), and the tip length is 1.62 mm. Yes, that's a 4 mm eye hole in the manual and on factory printed paper.
The height of the Singer needle from the top of the eye to the point the hook that is behind the needle is a whopping 3 to 3.5 mm as purchased this used New Home LLC.
It should be only 1.8 mm to 2.4 mm to grab the thread with the hook, IMO.
What's the difference in the longer Singer needle to the shorter New Home image length? 2.8 mm.
So a new SINGER needle is 2.8 mm too long. There are three ways to convert this machine to Singer standard needles.
1. You can raise the needle bar by 2.8 mm. If the thread guide screw prevents that, then you have to go option 2 or 3.
2. Cut 2.8 mm off the top of a new Singer needle. That's not ideal but it is a solution.
3. Run without a thread guide screw or guide. Rig some other thread guide that doesn't interfere with raising the needle bar 2.8 mm.
What needle is close to this New Home needle? A Boye 2-1/2 at 35.7 mm total length or the New Home #CC1221.
So the correct distance to raise the needle bar or shorten a Singer needle is 2.8 mm.
The feed dog should not be moving the fabric while the needle is still in the fabric. The needle should be a few millimeters minimum above the fabric before the fabric is ever moving or the feed dog timing is off.
On a Singer 478, the needle is 6-7 mm above the fabric when the top of the feed dog is flush up front with the top of the needle plate and the needle is rising.
When the needle is at the back, moving down, and the dog just starts to move down; the needle height is 3.5 to 4 mm above the needle plate top surface. When the feed dog top is flush in back with the needle plate top, the fabric is not moving forward or backwards. The needle eye hole is half way 'into' the the top of the needle plate hole but of course it is in the fabric by then, when present.
The supply house guy on youtube ignores and glosses over the dog timing as no big deal when changing timing gears. It is.
The dog does not start down when the needle just starts to go down. The dog does not start up when the needle just starts up. Your results might vary but a 478 and eight other machines say the dog moves close to that stated above.
JMO.
HTH,
Stefan
#50
Hi,
I restore vintage sewing machines. I have a scarce machine that according to ISMACS was made in 1889.
The problem is that it has World War II wrinkle finish paint and that means it's 1940s or 1950s.
The bobbin race cover has a patent number on it and it says the patent was filed in 1934.
So, this machine could not be made any earlier than 1932, when the theoretically first commercial machine could have been sold.
According to New Home, this green New Home machine does not exist. Really?
The serial number is about 884000 and has a model LLC riveted plate. Underneath in the casting it says 'LLB, 201-2 and on the next line is a 2'.
So, what is this machine's model number? A Model LLC made in the USA.
...
Stefan
I restore vintage sewing machines. I have a scarce machine that according to ISMACS was made in 1889.
The problem is that it has World War II wrinkle finish paint and that means it's 1940s or 1950s.
The bobbin race cover has a patent number on it and it says the patent was filed in 1934.
So, this machine could not be made any earlier than 1932, when the theoretically first commercial machine could have been sold.
According to New Home, this green New Home machine does not exist. Really?
The serial number is about 884000 and has a model LLC riveted plate. Underneath in the casting it says 'LLB, 201-2 and on the next line is a 2'.
So, what is this machine's model number? A Model LLC made in the USA.
...
Stefan
I can't help with needle issue, but hopefully I can clear up the serial number and approximate manufacture date. The ISMACS New Home serial numbers are only for the machines manufactured in Orange Massachusetts prior to 1930. They later moved to Rockford Illinois. Your machine would have been in the early 1950s. If you look at the last page of https://www.janome.com/siteassets/su...anufacture.pdf you will find that the LLB and LLC were made 1951-1953;
Some pictures of similar machines can be seen at Crinkle finish and other ugly finish machine thread Unfortunately CD is no longer active here. Many of us miss him. He is knowledgeable, helpful and has a neat sense of humor. It looks like the other person that had another green machine only posted that one day.
Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
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