Pfaff 130 Questions
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 1
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Hi all,
I recently picked up a Pfaff 130-6 that I've been working on restoring. I finished getting the 50010 attachment in good working order, but I have a couple questions now that I'm working on the body of the machine itself.
First, I'm worried about rust re-establishing itself in places I've already derusted. I've just been introducing oil (I'm using tri-flow) and wiping most of it off, should this be sufficient for preventing future rust assuming I keep the machine in a dry place?
Second, several of the silver(chrome?)-coated parts of the machine (throat and slide plates, front cover plate, 50010 A and B selector levers) have their finish cracking all over and showing rust underneath. How do I refinish this silvery color? I think I'm going to have to repaint the body because much of the paint is cracked, I was going to use spray primer, paint and clear coat, but I have no idea how to refinish these metallic pieces. I can add photos once I get to a computer.
Lastly, the zig-zag dial is really hard to turn, way too hard for the 50010 spring and much harder than many of the videos I've seen of 130s. Is solving this just a case of taking out the innards and soaking them in kerosene? I've tried degreasing and oiling what I could get to by just removing the dial, but it doesn't appear to have done much. I think I'm going to have to take out the insides to de-rust them anyway, should this free up the dial too?
Thanks for the help!
I recently picked up a Pfaff 130-6 that I've been working on restoring. I finished getting the 50010 attachment in good working order, but I have a couple questions now that I'm working on the body of the machine itself.
First, I'm worried about rust re-establishing itself in places I've already derusted. I've just been introducing oil (I'm using tri-flow) and wiping most of it off, should this be sufficient for preventing future rust assuming I keep the machine in a dry place?
Second, several of the silver(chrome?)-coated parts of the machine (throat and slide plates, front cover plate, 50010 A and B selector levers) have their finish cracking all over and showing rust underneath. How do I refinish this silvery color? I think I'm going to have to repaint the body because much of the paint is cracked, I was going to use spray primer, paint and clear coat, but I have no idea how to refinish these metallic pieces. I can add photos once I get to a computer.
Lastly, the zig-zag dial is really hard to turn, way too hard for the 50010 spring and much harder than many of the videos I've seen of 130s. Is solving this just a case of taking out the innards and soaking them in kerosene? I've tried degreasing and oiling what I could get to by just removing the dial, but it doesn't appear to have done much. I think I'm going to have to take out the insides to de-rust them anyway, should this free up the dial too?
Thanks for the help!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: South of St Louis
Posts: 830
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Other people on this board use Evapo-Rust, I have not yet tried it. If you search the board for it you should find at least one before/after pictures of someone's Singer 66 which was in terrible shape. You could clean up the chrome parts with the same and maybe use chrome spray paint to refinish them? I don't know of any alternatives other than chrome plating, but I haven't researched it either.
I would try kerosene sparingly, if you have a small bottle with a long spout to put it where you want it.
I would try kerosene sparingly, if you have a small bottle with a long spout to put it where you want it.
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,963
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I think some manage to rechrome parts in their' own garage, but it's more common to find a work shop specializing in it. You have to get a bit inventive and search up guys who restore vintage cars and things like that to find the right people. The only problem is the price, and you really need the quality type rechroming to get the right results. That said, you can get far with polishing waxes like Quick-Glo, it leaves a wax coating that prevents rust from returning too quickly.
As long as you store the machine in a dry, heated room you should not need to worry about rust reappearing. When you start using the machine and keep up frequent oiling and cleaning, rust tend to wear off completely, at least on the internal steel parts. A thin coating of oil is very protective.
For subborn nobs and sluggish turning parts, you should get far with persistant oiling, test running and more cleaning and oiling. For the 130 there's lots of help and info to find on the web, like this video.
As long as you store the machine in a dry, heated room you should not need to worry about rust reappearing. When you start using the machine and keep up frequent oiling and cleaning, rust tend to wear off completely, at least on the internal steel parts. A thin coating of oil is very protective.
For subborn nobs and sluggish turning parts, you should get far with persistant oiling, test running and more cleaning and oiling. For the 130 there's lots of help and info to find on the web, like this video.