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-   -   Redeye that won't budge (https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/redeye-wont-budge-t195989.html)

J Miller 07-30-2012 04:54 AM

Basically, don't be timid about the oil, Evapo-Rust, kerosene, or what ever. Be careful of getting any of it on the exterior, but flood the seized up parts and make sure they are soaked.

If you haven't already pull the hand wheel off and float the shaft at the machine with oil too.

As for "painting" on the Evapo-Rust I've tried that with rusted hand wheels. My experience was it just ran off and dried up. For that stuff to work you need to immerse the part and let it soak.

Joe

SuziQuilterDay 07-30-2012 08:21 AM


Originally Posted by miriam (Post 5404394)
Is it not moving because it is rusted or because of dried up oil? If it is rust you need to paint on some evap-o-rust if it is dried on oil the Triflow will do the job - be patient - I've seen it work instantly and I've see it take a week or two.

My local repair man suggested I use Triflow when I asked about my "frozen" FW I'd asked how I could save $$ before bringing it to him. He told me Triflow would be safe for the paint. It was and I had sprayed quite a bit all over. I let it stand overnight and sprayed again with out touching anything. Less than 36 hours after starting I was plugged in and ready to sew. A small spray can only cost me $ 6.29 (6 oz) and it'll last me a long time (unless my DH takes it)

miriam 07-30-2012 10:01 AM


Originally Posted by SuziQuilterDay (Post 5405720)
My local repair man suggested I use Triflow when I asked about my "frozen" FW I'd asked how I could save $$ before bringing it to him. He told me Triflow would be safe for the paint. It was and I had sprayed quite a bit all over. I let it stand overnight and sprayed again with out touching anything. Less than 36 hours after starting I was plugged in and ready to sew. A small spray can only cost me $ 6.29 (6 oz) and it'll last me a long time (unless my DH takes it)

One drop goes a long ways with Triflow then you don't have it all over the place - I buy the kind you drop on and it works great.

J Miller 07-30-2012 10:09 AM

First bottle of T-F oil came from Sew-Classic. Second, much bigger bottle came from the bicycle shop that's right next door to my LSMG. Very convenient that is. :D

Joe

miriam 07-30-2012 10:19 AM

If you look around on line you can find some deals on Triflow.

Needles 07-30-2012 07:19 PM

There is something on the market called Blaster. DH uses it every now and then on car parts that are supposed to move and don't. Or screws that won't be removed by any screwdriver. Lets it set 24 hours. That's the hardest part, we all know, the waiting. Actually, one time he did it three days in a row, it FINALLY let loose.

miriam 07-31-2012 02:04 AM


Originally Posted by Needles (Post 5407259)
There is something on the market called Blaster. DH uses it every now and then on car parts that are supposed to move and don't. Or screws that won't be removed by any screwdriver. Lets it set 24 hours. That's the hardest part, we all know, the waiting. Actually, one time he did it three days in a row, it FINALLY let loose.

Careful with anything that strong unless you already plan to repaint the machine. Also it is a chemical and you need to be cautious to use it outside - take care of yourself, too - ask me how I know this...

Bitzy One 08-01-2012 03:43 AM

I got some kerosene yesterday, my local ACE Hardware has TriFlow (4 oz) for $8. I did pull the hand wheel off at the beginning, just like taking the face plate off, oiling off the bobbin plate, etc. I got all moving except for the needle bar which is hung up I believe inside the back round cover at that big joint. Also, the bobbin won't move due to slight rust. It's rusty all through, but not terrible rust. Should I paint the bobbin case with the kerosene too?? I know it won't hurt the inside of the black major joint that's stuck. Will kerosene eat up the chrome? Just the outside is where I need to be careful? I DO NOT plan on painting this machine, I bought it cause its pretty.

"Float the shaft" - do you mean just saturate the part up inside next to the wheel? Also, I think the whole problem lies in the inside upper right big joint that won't move, so once it comes loose, I hope that takes care of the bobbin rotating. Tonite I'm taking it outside to paint the parts with kerosene. The smell is awful!

J Miller 08-01-2012 04:04 AM

Yes, I mean saturate it. If you have the back plate and face plate off you can access everything there is on a 66.
Lay it on it's front and saturate that rod connection and the fork next to it.
The same with the bobbin area. If it's that rusty it will take time.

Start wiggling everything from the needle bar back. If it wiggles it's most likely not stuck so move on till you find something that doesn't wiggle.
My 99K was rusted up tight, but 99% of the problem was in the bobbin area. You'll have to take everything that comes out, out so you can clean, so take it out now.
The hook has a big shaft that can rust tight. Attached to it is an arm that pivots on a BIG bolt. That can rust up tight. That arm was what hung my 99K up for so long.

Get the Tri-Flow, Liquid Wrench, kerosene, or what ever you are using in there and keep the area wet until you get it free.

Joe

quiltingweb 08-01-2012 05:06 AM

I had a machine that was locked up. By process of elimination, I figured out which piece it was. I removed that piece and soaked it in PB Blaster...bit by bit, I was able to finally move and then remove the bushings that were causing the trouble. I was warned it would remove varnish, so I was careful with it...I sprayed some in a narrow little jar and just let it soak.

I found both the PB Blaster and Tri-flo at Fleet Farm to my surprise. Very inexpensive.


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