Question about Vintage Needles
#1
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Question about Vintage Needles
I have a vintage Bell machine that I posted about and it came with 2 needles. http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...e-t239008.html The manual says any 15x1 size 14 needles work, but I think new needles have changed so this is not true. I spent several hours testing out all types of Schmetz needles and every needle I use makes the machine skip a stitch every so often. Maybe every 14- 20 stitches. The original needle works just fine. But , I only have two of them. The original needle has a flat top on the shank, unlike the newer needles that have a cone on the top. I've tried lowering the needles a smidge and a skipped stitch still happens occasionally.
Is there still a type of needle or manufacturer that makes the flat top type needles? I really don't want to mess with filing them down. Especially if they're still not going to work. I need 15x1, size 14 with the flat top. Can anyone post a link to them or know of a source? I've only looked at Schmetz and Organ and haven't found any:<
Is there still a type of needle or manufacturer that makes the flat top type needles? I really don't want to mess with filing them down. Especially if they're still not going to work. I need 15x1, size 14 with the flat top. Can anyone post a link to them or know of a source? I've only looked at Schmetz and Organ and haven't found any:<
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2014
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I'm not sure if this will help you out or not, but did you check the needle data base on ISMACS for the list of all needles and substitutions? If you know of a manufacturer that makes a substitution, maybe it will be easier to track down some of your needles??? Just a thought....
http://www.ismacs.net/needle_and_sha...edle-list.html
If this suggestion sucks... sorry. I'll blame it on being a newbie. Just trying to help you out as you've helped me out several times.
http://www.ismacs.net/needle_and_sha...edle-list.html
If this suggestion sucks... sorry. I'll blame it on being a newbie. Just trying to help you out as you've helped me out several times.
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Candace,
Are the two vintage needles you have the same in the other dimensions as the current 15x1s? I only ask this because I have 15x1 needles from vintage to modern in many many brands, and so far I haven't' found a machine that won't use all of them if "it"s in good adjustment.
Is it possible someone moved the needle bar a bit and those are not 15x1 needles?
Just asking cos I haven't run into the problem you are having, and I don't have a Bell machine to mess with.
Joe
Are the two vintage needles you have the same in the other dimensions as the current 15x1s? I only ask this because I have 15x1 needles from vintage to modern in many many brands, and so far I haven't' found a machine that won't use all of them if "it"s in good adjustment.
Is it possible someone moved the needle bar a bit and those are not 15x1 needles?
Just asking cos I haven't run into the problem you are having, and I don't have a Bell machine to mess with.
Joe
#4
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The needles that came with the machine have 1/2 stamped on them. They're similar to 15x1 needles, but I think the cone shape on the top of current made ones makes the eye line up differently. I don't know why the 1/2 needles work, but they do. I don't have any non e machines like treadles etc. so have never had issues with needles not working correctly as any machine I've ever owned used 15x1 with no problems.
I don't think there's anything wrong with the machine or that it's been fiddled with. I suspect it needs specific needles:<
I don't think there's anything wrong with the machine or that it's been fiddled with. I suspect it needs specific needles:<
#5
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I'm not sure if this will help you out or not, but did you check the needle data base on ISMACS for the list of all needles and substitutions? If you know of a manufacturer that makes a substitution, maybe it will be easier to track down some of your needles??? Just a thought....
http://www.ismacs.net/needle_and_sha...edle-list.html
If this suggestion sucks... sorry. I'll blame it on being a newbie. Just trying to help you out as you've helped me out several times.
http://www.ismacs.net/needle_and_sha...edle-list.html
If this suggestion sucks... sorry. I'll blame it on being a newbie. Just trying to help you out as you've helped me out several times.
#7
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The left needle is marked 1/2 and the right is just a Schmetz size 14 quilting needle (15x1). It's strange that the needles marked 1/2 don't skip and the 15's sometimes do. Not often, but just once in a while. Of course the 1/2 needles aren't marked with any manufacturer name or other info. More info on these 1/2 marked needles would be great.
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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Candace,
I found the needle I have that's marked 1/2. It's in a Susan Bates needle tube for 40-60 thread.
I compared it to a new Schmetz Universal size 14 and the comparison is exactly like your pics.
1/2 has a grove on the rounded side of the shank all the way up to the round part.
Schmetz grove stops at the beginning of the taper.
1/2 has a grove on the scarf side
Schmetz has a scarf on that side
Overall length is the same
The eye on the 1/2 needle is a bit lower ( closer to the point ) than the Schmetz.
For my machines, not enough difference to cause a problem. But could the tapered top of the Schmetz allow it to seat deeper into the needle bar? If so that could exacerbate the difference in the eye location and that could cause a skipped stitch.
Joe
I found the needle I have that's marked 1/2. It's in a Susan Bates needle tube for 40-60 thread.
I compared it to a new Schmetz Universal size 14 and the comparison is exactly like your pics.
1/2 has a grove on the rounded side of the shank all the way up to the round part.
Schmetz grove stops at the beginning of the taper.
1/2 has a grove on the scarf side
Schmetz has a scarf on that side
Overall length is the same
The eye on the 1/2 needle is a bit lower ( closer to the point ) than the Schmetz.
For my machines, not enough difference to cause a problem. But could the tapered top of the Schmetz allow it to seat deeper into the needle bar? If so that could exacerbate the difference in the eye location and that could cause a skipped stitch.
Joe
#9
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Candace,
Your original needles do not have a scarf (the indention just above the eye on the backside of the needle). All newer needles do have a scarf. The scarf in the newer needles creates a space so that the zig-zag machine's hook can be set closer to the needle, thereby eliminating skipped stitches. This space in a straight stitch machine effectively places the hook tip slightly farther from the needle and can cause skipped stitches (in a staight stitch machine).
Don't use a non-scarfed needle in an newer zig-zag machine as that can lead to the hook hitting the needle.
Cathy (Just dropping in for a few minutes)
Your original needles do not have a scarf (the indention just above the eye on the backside of the needle). All newer needles do have a scarf. The scarf in the newer needles creates a space so that the zig-zag machine's hook can be set closer to the needle, thereby eliminating skipped stitches. This space in a straight stitch machine effectively places the hook tip slightly farther from the needle and can cause skipped stitches (in a staight stitch machine).
Don't use a non-scarfed needle in an newer zig-zag machine as that can lead to the hook hitting the needle.
Cathy (Just dropping in for a few minutes)
#10
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Very interesting...so basically I'm going to have to stick to vintage needles for this machine? That's not great news:< But, yes that makes sense as the non scarf needle works perfectly. Thanks, Cathy.
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