callen

These are wonderful instructions for re-finishing the cabinets but does anyone have instructions for cleaning up & refurbishing vintage machines (referring to the machine finishes). I have cleaned mine, rubbed it down with sewing machine oil & it still doesn't look as good as I would like. Parts of the finish have lost their lustre & the sewing machine oil has helped but maybe there are other things I could use. Any suggestions? I have looked at Muv & Fav tuts & followed them but it still needs some additonal TLC. My machines have no rust but have lost some of their "joie de vivre" LOL. HELP!!!

Caroline S

I will be attempting my woodworking skill sets this summer when the weather allows me to work in the garage. Most every cabinet that I have has some areas where the veneer has lifted or has been damaged. Thanks for asking the question.

Candace

Glenn, I have a cabinet from a White 77 that I'm contemplating refinishing. I saw your list as to what to get and use, but I wanted to post some photos to see if they are applicable to this table. This table has a gloss on it (on the inside) that I imagine is the original finish and the outside is just worn and dull now. But, I don't know if it's a shellac, laquer or?? Truth be told, I'm not overly in love with the color (kind of a honey) as I would prefer a dark walnut color, but I'll take your recommendations as what to use for the color... One thing I don't care for with this cabinet is that it is HEAVY. I think it's solid wood, unlike the veneers I'm used to seeing on Singer cabinets. This White also doesn't have a spring opening support arm, so when the top sides flip open the weight pulls on the hinges. I'd appreciate your opinion on what I should use (products) for this specific table. Thanks much!

AZ Jane

This definitely needs to be a Sticky!!

Ccorazone

I had to replace a lot of the old, ragged, peeling, beaten up veneer on my 1913 cabinet. I am now trying to match the color on the new veneer to the patina on the old parts. Trial and error on scrap new veneer until I think it is close enough.. Like others, I worked in a shop that restored antiques, however, I did not work in the area that re-did the finish.. So mine is trial and error in trying to match colors..

Glenn

Thin out some wood glue so it wil flow under the loose veneer, but a layer of wax paper down and the place a flat board on top to cover the loose piece of veneer. I use 3/4 inch plywood for this and them clamp it down or place a heavy weight on top like bricks and let cure for 24 hours. This should solve you problem with the loose veneer

Glenn

Candace, first we need to find out what the finish is. Use denatured alcohol in a place where is will not be noticeable. If the finsih melts and get tacky is shellac. If it does not it is not shellac. Next try acetone and if it melts the finish is laquer. I this doe not work is varnish or poly( oilbased) Varnish and poly are hard if not impossible to repair and will need to be stripped off. So lets find out what the finish is first and then we can go from there.

Glenn

Even for wood refinishers it is trail error

Glenn

Miriam are you talking about the iron and fly wheel? then there are several thing that can be done.

miriam

Yes. Just don't get in a hurry. I'm not. I'm up to my butt in sewing machines. This last haul is overwhelming. Glenn, you should see some of the cabinets. VERY cool.