Replate/Chrome?
#3
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Patty,
Joe is 100% correct. I do Jewelry plating (silver, copper) but the concept is the same.
some advice...
1. Try looking on old car boards (they are one of the biggest users of this service)
2. Try looking on old boat boards (they are the second most common re-platers)
3. This process is not cheap mostly because of the labyrinthine regulations and permits required.
(one of the most toxic processes in manufacturing)
In most cases it is cheaper to buy a unit that to re-chrome. If the part is rare, it is worth it.
Also, there are some good "chrome" paints being sold that with hand touch-up work can make an unsightly spot less noticeable.
Lastly, if you let me know where you are at i can help you locate a service (Private Message if you'd rather)
Joe is 100% correct. I do Jewelry plating (silver, copper) but the concept is the same.
some advice...
1. Try looking on old car boards (they are one of the biggest users of this service)
2. Try looking on old boat boards (they are the second most common re-platers)
3. This process is not cheap mostly because of the labyrinthine regulations and permits required.
(one of the most toxic processes in manufacturing)
In most cases it is cheaper to buy a unit that to re-chrome. If the part is rare, it is worth it.
Also, there are some good "chrome" paints being sold that with hand touch-up work can make an unsightly spot less noticeable.
Lastly, if you let me know where you are at i can help you locate a service (Private Message if you'd rather)
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 79
Patty,
Joe is 100% correct. I do Jewelry plating (silver, copper) but the concept is the same.
some advice...
1. Try looking on old car boards (they are one of the biggest users of this service)
2. Try looking on old boat boards (they are the second most common re-platers)
3. This process is not cheap mostly because of the labyrinthine regulations and permits required.
(one of the most toxic processes in manufacturing)
In most cases it is cheaper to buy a unit that to re-chrome. If the part is rare, it is worth it.
Also, there are some good "chrome" paints being sold that with hand touch-up work can make an unsightly spot less noticeable.
Lastly, if you let me know where you are at i can help you locate a service (Private Message if you'd rather)
Joe is 100% correct. I do Jewelry plating (silver, copper) but the concept is the same.
some advice...
1. Try looking on old car boards (they are one of the biggest users of this service)
2. Try looking on old boat boards (they are the second most common re-platers)
3. This process is not cheap mostly because of the labyrinthine regulations and permits required.
(one of the most toxic processes in manufacturing)
In most cases it is cheaper to buy a unit that to re-chrome. If the part is rare, it is worth it.
Also, there are some good "chrome" paints being sold that with hand touch-up work can make an unsightly spot less noticeable.
Lastly, if you let me know where you are at i can help you locate a service (Private Message if you'd rather)
#6
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Patty - I was able to find the following in your area;
http://gorillachrome.com/las-vegas-w...chrome-plating
http://decometalfinishing.com/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/american-pol...ting-henderson
http://www.chromeplatingusa.com/
Pam - I just read the website for the "Evaporust". cool stuff. What this did was to basically "eat" (read breakdown) the rust and leave the metal. I would not believe that you did anything wrong. It just needs to be polished now.
So, to explain in really basic terms how metal shines....
If you imagine taking a piece of dull metal, cutting it, and then looking at the side REALLY close the top and bottom surface would look like this...
Top surface: \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Bottom surface: ----------------------
When light comes from the top towards the metal it hits all of those angled faces and the light bounces off at a different angle.
Since only a small portion of the light is actually bounced back to the viewer and the light that does make it back is not all "side by side" the surface looks dull.
When you polish a surface and then cut it, viewed from the side it looks like this...
Top surface: -----------------------
Bottom surface: -----------------------
The light now bounces mostly back to the viewer making the surface reflective.
Now Imagine your piece of metal with rust on it...
Top surface: -0-0-0---00-0---0--
Bottom surface: ----------------------
Now remove the rust.... ( the "v" is the pocket left when the rust particle leaves)
Top surface: -v-v-v---vv-v---v--
Bottom surface: ----------------------
The process of polishing lowers the rest of the surface until there are less "disturbances" in the surface.
Another "image" of this is to imagine a pool of water. when it is Still it is reflective, when it is "rippled" it is not. (actually it is, but the reflections are strongly distorted)
http://gorillachrome.com/las-vegas-w...chrome-plating
http://decometalfinishing.com/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/american-pol...ting-henderson
http://www.chromeplatingusa.com/
Pam - I just read the website for the "Evaporust". cool stuff. What this did was to basically "eat" (read breakdown) the rust and leave the metal. I would not believe that you did anything wrong. It just needs to be polished now.
So, to explain in really basic terms how metal shines....
If you imagine taking a piece of dull metal, cutting it, and then looking at the side REALLY close the top and bottom surface would look like this...
Top surface: \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
Bottom surface: ----------------------
When light comes from the top towards the metal it hits all of those angled faces and the light bounces off at a different angle.
Since only a small portion of the light is actually bounced back to the viewer and the light that does make it back is not all "side by side" the surface looks dull.
When you polish a surface and then cut it, viewed from the side it looks like this...
Top surface: -----------------------
Bottom surface: -----------------------
The light now bounces mostly back to the viewer making the surface reflective.
Now Imagine your piece of metal with rust on it...
Top surface: -0-0-0---00-0---0--
Bottom surface: ----------------------
Now remove the rust.... ( the "v" is the pocket left when the rust particle leaves)
Top surface: -v-v-v---vv-v---v--
Bottom surface: ----------------------
The process of polishing lowers the rest of the surface until there are less "disturbances" in the surface.
Another "image" of this is to imagine a pool of water. when it is Still it is reflective, when it is "rippled" it is not. (actually it is, but the reflections are strongly distorted)
#8
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Pam,
Well, in "my' shop it would be a buffing wheel and polishing compounds.
I can make a couple suggestions for you though;
First try any non-abrasive (contradiction in terms) polish. I use "Flitz". (old fashioned toothpaste works well also)
You can also try putting it on the machine and using "00000 Steel wool" while it is spinning.
But if there is any pitting, it will need to be really polished.
If you would like to send it to California, I would be willing to buff it up for you, no cost.
Well, in "my' shop it would be a buffing wheel and polishing compounds.
I can make a couple suggestions for you though;
First try any non-abrasive (contradiction in terms) polish. I use "Flitz". (old fashioned toothpaste works well also)
You can also try putting it on the machine and using "00000 Steel wool" while it is spinning.
But if there is any pitting, it will need to be really polished.
If you would like to send it to California, I would be willing to buff it up for you, no cost.
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