Rust and Pitting on Nickel Plating
01-20-2014, 07:49 PM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 165
Ok, I finally finished working on my new machines, so I have some pics to post.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457754[/ATTACH]
Sorry this came out on it's side, I don't know how to turn it. This is the machine just set up and ready for repairs. I have it liberally sprayed down with liquid wrench here (my personal favorite degreaser and cleaner thus far. I have not had any problems with it hurting decals). Note how rusty the knobs are on the top of the machine, and the wheel.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457755[/ATTACH]
Close up of the rusty wheel
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457756[/ATTACH]
Sorry for the blurriness of this pic, and I know it's not the best for showing how nice the wheel came out.
The wheel after using the dremel brushes and polishing compound. You will see that there are still some scratches, and some minor pitting, but unless you're willing to really put in some hardcore elbow grease, and use a very abrasive tool, you will not get them all out. To me, getting the rust off is most important.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457757[/ATTACH]
Before
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457758[/ATTACH]
After (*note...I did not put in that deep gouge. It was there before I started. You can vaguely see it in the rusty pic)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457766[/ATTACH]
The two spool all cleaned up.
Hope this helps some of you out. If you're nervous about using the dremel, don't be. Make sure you use one that has variable speeds, and keep it on the slow side. TAKE YOUR TIME, AND GO SLOW! I would recommend that you start with a scrap piece of metal or an old tool (I used a rusty old wrench of my husbands to test how these brushes would work before diving in) to practice. Once you have a feel for how the attachments work, start on the BACKSIDE of whatever it is you want to shine up....if possible (I started with the needle plate, but I forgot to take pics). Remember...this process WILL scratch your parts, but by slowing decreasing the coarseness, they will become less and less noticeable. Good luck!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457754[/ATTACH]
Sorry this came out on it's side, I don't know how to turn it. This is the machine just set up and ready for repairs. I have it liberally sprayed down with liquid wrench here (my personal favorite degreaser and cleaner thus far. I have not had any problems with it hurting decals). Note how rusty the knobs are on the top of the machine, and the wheel.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457755[/ATTACH]
Close up of the rusty wheel
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457756[/ATTACH]
Sorry for the blurriness of this pic, and I know it's not the best for showing how nice the wheel came out.
The wheel after using the dremel brushes and polishing compound. You will see that there are still some scratches, and some minor pitting, but unless you're willing to really put in some hardcore elbow grease, and use a very abrasive tool, you will not get them all out. To me, getting the rust off is most important.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457757[/ATTACH]
Before
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457758[/ATTACH]
After (*note...I did not put in that deep gouge. It was there before I started. You can vaguely see it in the rusty pic)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]457766[/ATTACH]
The two spool all cleaned up.
Hope this helps some of you out. If you're nervous about using the dremel, don't be. Make sure you use one that has variable speeds, and keep it on the slow side. TAKE YOUR TIME, AND GO SLOW! I would recommend that you start with a scrap piece of metal or an old tool (I used a rusty old wrench of my husbands to test how these brushes would work before diving in) to practice. Once you have a feel for how the attachments work, start on the BACKSIDE of whatever it is you want to shine up....if possible (I started with the needle plate, but I forgot to take pics). Remember...this process WILL scratch your parts, but by slowing decreasing the coarseness, they will become less and less noticeable. Good luck!
Last edited by Rach L.; 01-20-2014 at 07:58 PM.
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