Mickey2

Threading looks fine, needle is correct for the machine. 130, 705 and 15x1 are different numbers for the same needle system. Size 80 is the same as 12, and it's on the small size for top stitch thread. I would go for size 120 (which is the same as 18). If it's sew-all weight thread it should within reason. What type of thread are you using?

I can't point out anything wrong. You have cleaned and oiled everything a few time since you took the machine back into use? If the tensioner is dirty it often improves with cleaning, which means taking it appart, cleaing parts individually and puting them back together in the right order.

Johncn

Thanks, folks. Appreciate the responses. We'll get a heavier and sharper needle tomorrow. Appreciate the clarification of 15 X 1 being more important than the other numbers, if I read that correctly.

We don't know much about thread, but the brand is Coates & Clark. The top of the spool says:

CA00011
S950 16 8020

It is 100% polyester.

She has cleaned a bit, but not taken the tensioner off to clean it. I'm guessing that would a good next step. Hopefully, she can get back together correctly. It looks like...lots of parts. ;-)

Thanks, again, to those who have responded.

Regards,

Johncn

OurWorkbench

As Cari stated the 15x1 is the same same numbering system as 130/705 H. Then there are different sizes and points within that system. A link for description of various needles can be found at http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/blo...needle-to-use/ There is also a sharp needle for denim or jeans besides the regular sharp. According to http://www.joann.com/coats-andamp-cl...prd840932.html -- "Recommended Machine Needles Size: 14(90), 16(100) or 18(110)" {color and bold my edit}

Another good reference for slant shank machines can be found at nhttp://www.tandtrepair.com/SlantOMatics.html You might try threading it differently as explained on that page (search for "Improved Threading"). It was developed for knits, maybe it would help with wovens, too

My first thought was a dirty tension assembly, but then thought about the possibility of burr on the upper thread guide or the possibility that the thread spool is not feeding properly. I might take a strip of silk or panty hose through the thread path and see if there are any snags. It looks like there is a felt on the thread spool pin. Make sure you're putting the spool on top of the felt, so that the thread feeds evenly off.

Also, as Cari mentioned, double check the bobbin area. I know more than one time the problem area is opposite of what we initially thought.

So many things to double check, but it looks like you are getting there. Maybe just the needle size and being sharp instead of universal will help until you can properly clean the tension assembly. The service manual will help there.

Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.

Johncn

Hello,

Well, we got new needles as recommended, and new thread. Rebecca checked under the bobbin again, and disassembled the tensioner and cleaned it thoroughly with rubbing alcohol...big improvement in how "smooth" the disks feel. Putting it back together...may not have gone correctly. Although she says that although there is tension, it does not seem to be "adjusting" when the dial is used.

She used several tutorials, including this seeming excellent one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UttHpnQy0xk

But the tension assembly in the videos is slightly different than what she has on the machine. It does seem to match the exploded diagram in the service manual, but she's having trouble after following the process there...perhaps it's too "techie" dry and non-language based? It has to be something simple. I hope.

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Sorry to be so slow on this stuff, but we don't have any frame of reference. Appreciate any input. I just hope she doesn't spontaneously combust she is so frustrated right now. ;-)

Regards,

Johncn

Mickey2

I feel I have been in the same situation with a few tensioners, the video is one of the best out there, she talkes you through every step. Go over it all a few times and you will pick up the details left behind in the first round.

You usually don't have to take out the stud, but for some thorough clean up jobs I have had the inner metal parts next to the body off too. Remember to have the presser foot lever down, it will not tighten in up position (basic, but easy to forget). You have to fiddle a bit to get the tiny pin in the outer nut correctly in the hole in the dial part; then the last part and setting screw in correct position. I have noticed a few variation on the top tensioner on the 401, but in generally it's very similar.

It should turn from very loose tension on 0 to very tight on 9. The dial should turn from 0 to 9 with out any thing stopping half way.

SusieQOH

I've never seen a presser foot like that. What a machine! The cabinet is to die for!!!!!!!

Mickey2

Sorry, about the typos, the last sentence was very messed up. I hope you manage to extract the meaning between the lines.

Cari-in-Oly

It's a common adjustable zipper/cording foot.

Cari

Johncn

She was able to get it working to sew, but the tensioner only seems to have two settings...on or off...lol. The adjustment tightening is not working correctly for some reason. Perhaps it's mis-assembled. I will take a look at it this evening again.

However, she was able to finish the bottom dinette cushions for the camper today. They look a little large because she allowed extra room for additional batting to be fitted in over the original closed cell foam...for more poofiness than the originals. Still have to find an inexpensive source for the batting...Joann was really high it seemed.

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The cushions were made with the main fabric on the top and sides, but the heavier cotton duck on the bottom. They have hidden zippers so they can be removed for cleaning, and piping that she make by hand. She used twisted scraps of the duck material by tying one end of the strips to a door handle, and then using a small electric kitchen mixer to twist them into "cord".

Anyway, sure appreciate the help of this board for making her first sewing project at least a partial success so far.

Regards,

Johncn

Mickey2

Does the outer nut on your tensioner have the setting screw or is it with out? It doesn't matter much, but the parts has to be put back in correct way and correct order to work properly. This picture shows the line up of the outer parts. The tricky thing are often to get the washer with the tiny finger (E5 and S5) the corret way and correct position. When it's done correctly, it will turn a full turn from about 0 to 9, and have gradual tension all the way.