Singer Featherweight - No light, frayed cord ! Any idea ?
12-13-2013, 07:24 AM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,334
Yup, I'd say you need to rewire that machine before something awful happens.....
So, now I have a question. I just bought a 15-91 in a cabinet and the ends of the wires don't look wonderful. .... not as bad as this FW but I think it would be good to replace the wiring. I looked on sew-classic for a controller for one of my FWs and a bobbin winder tire for the 15-91 and noticed wire..... there is 18/2 SPT-1 and 18/2 SPT-2. What's the difference??? other that 10cents more per foot? 18 gauge is 18 gauge..... what's the SPT-1 and SPT-2 stand for?
Anyone out there that can answer my question?
So, now I have a question. I just bought a 15-91 in a cabinet and the ends of the wires don't look wonderful. .... not as bad as this FW but I think it would be good to replace the wiring. I looked on sew-classic for a controller for one of my FWs and a bobbin winder tire for the 15-91 and noticed wire..... there is 18/2 SPT-1 and 18/2 SPT-2. What's the difference??? other that 10cents more per foot? 18 gauge is 18 gauge..... what's the SPT-1 and SPT-2 stand for?
Anyone out there that can answer my question?
12-13-2013, 07:44 AM
#13
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millville, NJ
Posts: 1,835
Yup, I'd say you need to rewire that machine before something awful happens.....
So, now I have a question. I just bought a 15-91 in a cabinet and the ends of the wires don't look wonderful. .... not as bad as this FW but I think it would be good to replace the wiring. I looked on sew-classic for a controller for one of my FWs and a bobbin winder tire for the 15-91 and noticed wire..... there is 18/2 SPT-1 and 18/2 SPT-2. What's the difference??? other that 10cents more per foot? 18 gauge is 18 gauge..... what's the SPT-1 and SPT-2 stand for?
Anyone out there that can answer my question?
So, now I have a question. I just bought a 15-91 in a cabinet and the ends of the wires don't look wonderful. .... not as bad as this FW but I think it would be good to replace the wiring. I looked on sew-classic for a controller for one of my FWs and a bobbin winder tire for the 15-91 and noticed wire..... there is 18/2 SPT-1 and 18/2 SPT-2. What's the difference??? other that 10cents more per foot? 18 gauge is 18 gauge..... what's the SPT-1 and SPT-2 stand for?
Anyone out there that can answer my question?
Beautiful wall hanging.
18/2 Spt2 has thicker insulation than 18/2 Spt1. I prefer the SPT2 for controllers and power cords and SPT1 for lamps and motors. I find the SPT2 usable for lamps and motors but a bit bulky with the extra insulation for UL knots and tight bends.
Jon
Last edited by jlhmnj; 12-13-2013 at 07:46 AM.
12-13-2013, 08:26 AM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 181
Somebody on makes hand cranks out of window knobs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FEATHERWEIGH...-/160874190414
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FEATHERWEIGH...-/160874190414
12-13-2013, 08:42 AM
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Do other stop motion knobs fit the featherweights? I'm just wondering where they get the knobs to modify for hand cranking. Also it was interesting to me to see a brown crinkle finish. I'm used to seeing either the black or light green ones.
Rodney
Rodney
12-13-2013, 12:55 PM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: North Central, NC
Posts: 2,741
sjdal, Cannot wait to see how you like the hand crank. It seems like such a great feature to have in power outages, camping, power scrimping classes, or anywhere else where it might be a challenge to find an outlet.
12-13-2013, 01:12 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
Ok. Not to worry then. It doesn’t really “do” anything to the machine, except to make it more versatile. It’s just a matter of taking some parts off and replacing them with others. I don’t see that it harms the machine at all. And you can swap power systems back and forth whenever you like.
I have one on my FW, and really like it. You could think of the handcrank as just another attachment like a buttonhole attachment that can be put on or taken off whenever needed. It gives the user an “either or” choice of two power systems.
It’s great for taking to Quilt Shows to piece quilt blocks. That’s what I use mine for mainly, but it is also handy for use with children learning about sewing on a machine, for use nearly anywhere that electricity is not available, or for not having to plug-in when only a few stitches are needed for a repair.
CD in Oklahoma
I have one on my FW, and really like it. You could think of the handcrank as just another attachment like a buttonhole attachment that can be put on or taken off whenever needed. It gives the user an “either or” choice of two power systems.
It’s great for taking to Quilt Shows to piece quilt blocks. That’s what I use mine for mainly, but it is also handy for use with children learning about sewing on a machine, for use nearly anywhere that electricity is not available, or for not having to plug-in when only a few stitches are needed for a repair.
CD in Oklahoma
12-13-2013, 01:17 PM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
i will check and try to work on it myself first (OJT as they say). lucky me as i have plugged and ran it so many times when i oiled the machine. then yesterday i ran the motor again and that's when i saw this frayed/burned cord. the bay of this FW is so tight that i may need to remove everything before i can do my diag. i checked online and there's no complete wiring diagram i could find. if i can't do it then off we go to my local sewing machine store. thanks guys.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
