Singer Slant-o-Matics and free motion quilting?
#11
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Yes the 301's are great, I have two, both the chocolate color. I wasn't planning on buying two. The first one was 45.00 at our local re-use store and the second one came from a yard sale for 20.00. The lady selling it said if it didn't sell it was going in the trash and I couldn't stand to see that happen.
#12
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I still haven't tried really sewing with it but it does straight stitching fine but the zig zag is not good according to hubby who has been working on it. I haven't seen what it looks like yet, been too busy working on a quilt that has a deadline. He likes puttering with the machines.
#13
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In addition to what Cari said, check the oiling points with the top off. It won't be quite the same as the 401 as in __for 30w oil slant She's real fun, my 401... but it is similar. Post #15 of that thread also shows where to place a drop of 30W motor oil . The manual should have how to lubricate.
#14
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Tell your hubby that a common problem with the zig zag not stitching properly is the little plunger at the top right of the needle bar is usually gunked up so the needle won't operate with full swing. Some penetrating oil in the plunger and manually pushing the needle bar all the way left then all the way right about 372 times will fix it. ![Thumb Up](https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/thumbup.png)
Cari
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Cari
Nancy
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 808
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How do you fmq with it? Set the stitch at 0? There's no way to drop the feed dogs. I use mine for all my piecing, but I use my Lydia for fmq because it has a drop feed dogs button.
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Milton DE
Posts: 3,189
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I bought my spring jumping foot for my 301 thru Singer.com for FM. I called and the gentleman who runs the site will advise you which foot is used for the 301.
#18
Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 2
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The 400 and 500 series machines have a drop-in, horizontal plane bobbin. I have done a fair amount of Free Motion Quilting with my 503A, and it often gives me fits with tension; here is what works for me, most of the time:
1. Use the best thread you can find, in a relatively light weight (50 weight, 60 weight ), in both the bobbin and the top thread. Leah Day recommends Aurifil, and it works great with my machine. Polyester better than cotton for this application, in this class of machines; sorry natural fiber purists.
2. Use a Quilting or a Topstitch needle, and bigger than you might otherwise. Replace it often - needles are cheap; what is your leisure time worth to you?
3. Check your bobbin tension using a cheap clip-on postage scale, see The Schoolhouse at the Featherweight Shop for instructions. You want your tension with the bobbin thread you plan to use to be relatively light.
4. Go slow. This can be a problem with the original button type foot controls. I use a replacement electronic foot control, with an external "door stop" so it doesn't run away from me completely when starting.
5. "Floss" your thread through the tension disks to make sure it's really in there, and my machine works better on the outer of the two thread paths through the tension disk stack. Ditch the "tension compensator" on the 500 series, and feed around the center bar before going into the disks.
6. Do not use the current production Singer Brand Class 66 metal bobbins! They are poorly constructed, and the thread catches on the badly pressed in center "hub". I used to curse the plastic Class 66 bobbins because they break if you wind them too fast and hard, but they have smooth, finely finished flanges, as do the METAL bobbins sold by specialists in Singer restoration like Twice Nice in California and Sew-Classic. The original Singer metal bobbins from the 50's are fine, but the new Finest Kind are actually nicer.
7. Clean up any roughness in your needle plate with a teeny diamond sharpener, the one that is a small tapered cone finished with diamonds. Use the Straight Stitch round hole needle plate, and put a piece of tape over the needle position and zig-zag width lever to avoid inadvertent needle strikes when you change sewing modes.
8. I have come to believe that leaving the lifting needle plate down with the stitch length set to zero beats putting the needle plate to the Darning position. Putting the needle plate up changes the relationship with the rotary hook, and I'm not convinced that's a Good Thing.
9. Any of the available Free Motion feet will work, as long as they are specific to Slant Shank Singers. Low Shank and high shank feet will not work, and cannot be modified to work - I've tried. The plastic feet with the arm that rides on the needle bar break eventually. The plastic foot breaks off the plastic and metal jobs with a spring and and arm in time. I haven't used the Big Foot brand, but I just got a Westalee Ruler foot that does not hop, and it works as well as anything else, and it's bombproof. The little spring-steel open toe foot that came with your machine also works, with the presser bar tension set to zero.
10. Pull your bottom thread to the top, every time. See Leah Day videos for a how-to if you need one.
11. Check your tension often, by looking at the back of the work. If it goes to hell, re-thread everything, if that doesn't work, change the needle and re-thread again, if that doesn't work, go to a bigger needle and re-thread again, if that doesn't work, retreat to the Moaning Chair, and weep until the swelling goes away, put your walking foot on, and quilt the project that way. Next week, next month, next project, start over again, and it might work like a dream. The 400 and 500 series are some of the best machines Singer ever made, but they do not excel at Free Motion Quilting. But I have had other machines fight me too...I have decided, for today, to keep my 503A, with all the feet and attachments and bobbins I've accumulated for it, but it's been a near thing lately.
1. Use the best thread you can find, in a relatively light weight (50 weight, 60 weight ), in both the bobbin and the top thread. Leah Day recommends Aurifil, and it works great with my machine. Polyester better than cotton for this application, in this class of machines; sorry natural fiber purists.
2. Use a Quilting or a Topstitch needle, and bigger than you might otherwise. Replace it often - needles are cheap; what is your leisure time worth to you?
3. Check your bobbin tension using a cheap clip-on postage scale, see The Schoolhouse at the Featherweight Shop for instructions. You want your tension with the bobbin thread you plan to use to be relatively light.
4. Go slow. This can be a problem with the original button type foot controls. I use a replacement electronic foot control, with an external "door stop" so it doesn't run away from me completely when starting.
5. "Floss" your thread through the tension disks to make sure it's really in there, and my machine works better on the outer of the two thread paths through the tension disk stack. Ditch the "tension compensator" on the 500 series, and feed around the center bar before going into the disks.
6. Do not use the current production Singer Brand Class 66 metal bobbins! They are poorly constructed, and the thread catches on the badly pressed in center "hub". I used to curse the plastic Class 66 bobbins because they break if you wind them too fast and hard, but they have smooth, finely finished flanges, as do the METAL bobbins sold by specialists in Singer restoration like Twice Nice in California and Sew-Classic. The original Singer metal bobbins from the 50's are fine, but the new Finest Kind are actually nicer.
7. Clean up any roughness in your needle plate with a teeny diamond sharpener, the one that is a small tapered cone finished with diamonds. Use the Straight Stitch round hole needle plate, and put a piece of tape over the needle position and zig-zag width lever to avoid inadvertent needle strikes when you change sewing modes.
8. I have come to believe that leaving the lifting needle plate down with the stitch length set to zero beats putting the needle plate to the Darning position. Putting the needle plate up changes the relationship with the rotary hook, and I'm not convinced that's a Good Thing.
9. Any of the available Free Motion feet will work, as long as they are specific to Slant Shank Singers. Low Shank and high shank feet will not work, and cannot be modified to work - I've tried. The plastic feet with the arm that rides on the needle bar break eventually. The plastic foot breaks off the plastic and metal jobs with a spring and and arm in time. I haven't used the Big Foot brand, but I just got a Westalee Ruler foot that does not hop, and it works as well as anything else, and it's bombproof. The little spring-steel open toe foot that came with your machine also works, with the presser bar tension set to zero.
10. Pull your bottom thread to the top, every time. See Leah Day videos for a how-to if you need one.
11. Check your tension often, by looking at the back of the work. If it goes to hell, re-thread everything, if that doesn't work, change the needle and re-thread again, if that doesn't work, go to a bigger needle and re-thread again, if that doesn't work, retreat to the Moaning Chair, and weep until the swelling goes away, put your walking foot on, and quilt the project that way. Next week, next month, next project, start over again, and it might work like a dream. The 400 and 500 series are some of the best machines Singer ever made, but they do not excel at Free Motion Quilting. But I have had other machines fight me too...I have decided, for today, to keep my 503A, with all the feet and attachments and bobbins I've accumulated for it, but it's been a near thing lately.
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 264
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I have had a 403 for years and have done quilting with it until I moved up to a machine with a bigger throat/harp. Still have that machine and it will still likely outsew anything out there if you don't need the 'bells and whistles' found on the new machines. As to problems with the machine, go to a website called Vintage Siingers. They have a forum where you can ask questions and get advice on problems.
Last edited by QuiltnNan; 01-20-2020 at 04:52 PM. Reason: shouting/all caps
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