Stuck-Up Rust Bucket
#51
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 609
I had a rusted/stuck 15 that once the set screw were loose, i used a hammer and a piece of scrap brass to coax the needle and presser bars down a bit, then used a bolt and nut that just squeezed in with some aluminum bits and "unthreaded" the bolt a bit, then I applied heat with a heatshrink gun (hair dryer on steroids). You can easily bend rods if not careful, but it was a throw away anyway.Eventually I got it loose
#52
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
not so much of a bear to get back in as it is critical that it be exactly the same tension that is has now. That bolt has a pointed other end that fits in a cone on an internal mechanism and it acts as the pivot point.
#56
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Lorenzo, CA
Posts: 5,361
Hard to do from memory/imagination but I believe that is the other pivot point.
I would recommend ONLY removing one if possible. removing two means having to not only get the tension correct but to also make sure it is recentered.
I would make those near the last on my list of parts to remove.
Steve
I would recommend ONLY removing one if possible. removing two means having to not only get the tension correct but to also make sure it is recentered.
I would make those near the last on my list of parts to remove.
Steve
#57
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 609
OK then. Surgery is about to commence. The patient has been prepped and is resting comfortably on a bed of cardboard. New batteries placed in the camera and flashlights. The lights have been turned off so only the light from the flashlight will be used unless necessary. The fan has been turned toward the surgeon to keep her cool under pressure. Supplies are waiting at ready (screw drivers, ziplocs, sharpie, q-tips, paper towels, sewing machine oil syringe, and brass brushes). Hrer goes nothing and wish me luck.
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 911
Don't worry about the adjustment on this until it's back together, there all make once complete.. most every pivot point has a adjustment
once the rod going forward is off they a big screw and nut, remove that to get the rocker out, then the stitch length.
all the adjustment are by feel and sound, by sound I mean once you treadle it you may hear a clicking, go back readjust that point... it only takes a few more hours out of that 23.
I've found that once the lower shaft/rod is unhooked and it still turns stiff, cut the chase , take everything it the column out.. the upper main shaft seldom needs to be removed, but it's not that hard to do.
if you do a google search you'll find parts diagrams on that machine.
only thing is be careful with the rocker shaft, they will break they were not a great casting, also the upper pivot for the rocker, leave it alone, do not even try to remove that.. thats the big hole next to the spool pin
once you do this, you'll save a pile of money on not buying any more PB Blaster
once the rod going forward is off they a big screw and nut, remove that to get the rocker out, then the stitch length.
all the adjustment are by feel and sound, by sound I mean once you treadle it you may hear a clicking, go back readjust that point... it only takes a few more hours out of that 23.
I've found that once the lower shaft/rod is unhooked and it still turns stiff, cut the chase , take everything it the column out.. the upper main shaft seldom needs to be removed, but it's not that hard to do.
if you do a google search you'll find parts diagrams on that machine.
only thing is be careful with the rocker shaft, they will break they were not a great casting, also the upper pivot for the rocker, leave it alone, do not even try to remove that.. thats the big hole next to the spool pin
once you do this, you'll save a pile of money on not buying any more PB Blaster
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
costumegirl
For Vintage & Antique Machine Enthusiasts
11
10-18-2014 09:10 AM