crocee

Ok this is a retake of inside the pillar. There is still a lot more rust than the picture shows.

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no don't I have it now.. it's my computer I'm sure

to the left of the screw you ask about, look down inside , look for a slide with a roller in that, if it's shinny. then every thing in there should be good and if you stitch length knob screws in and out easy. then that pivot point is working.

all the other photo's I have seen have been very dark , I was under the impression this machine was a rust ball. it doesn't look so. fact in these I don't see any rust.. I've get some rusty machines.

crocee

The machine is a rust bucket on the inside. I've wire brushed a lot of it off. The outside look decent.

The thread length screw moves now. A lot of oil, alcohol, oil, a few not so nice words, and more oil it does move. There is a ton of rust around the main shaft on the backside of the needle bar(inside the arm) that I can't get to with the wire brush.

How does the hand wheel adapter come off?

I'm also not understanding the slide plate by the screw I questioned.

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thats much better . ok thats not real rust. I can see the cam on the upper shaft there's no rust . the screws don't show rust. the rust I see is only on the hi point of an arm/rod, surface rust very common on these old machines.. really in there many are full of flaking rust mud dobber bee's nest. greased up dirt

I'm serious about the pipe wrench, vise grips , if your worred about scoring up th eadpater . dive out the pins and take it off

NOW if it was very drity in there 8 months ago . and now it's 200% better. you can remove that big pivot screw with out taking anything else apart. just watch for that washer / shim I talked about.. problem is I don't remember if it was a 127 that has that . BUTT if you can turn that screw then that pivot point is free, the screw is the pivot shaft..

crocee

This is a whole lot better than I started with. It was full of flaky rust (still has some). Remember its had 8 months of oil, PB Blaster, and recently kerosene. I've brushed off a lot of the rust from the surfaces but there are places I can't get to. There is still quite a bit of rust on that arm. The screws look good because they've been cleaned out and brushed.

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the slide by teh screw ,, it's not a flat plate .. more like a bar with a groove. in the groove is a roller.

you'll see the end of the groove and the flat side of the roller

use your light to look in there. if you don't find it do this.... as you look, reach around and screw the stitch knob. look for the movement. the back end of the stitch knob moving. about one inch above this , is the slide / groove

that hand wheel adpater has a tapered pin that needs to be hammered out, it's tapered one end is bigger than the other. THEN often not always, you'll need a puller to get it off. sometime you can tap those off using a small hammer. a common little two jaw puller works

the pain about totally removing the upper shaft on these goes

unlike most singer these are a crankshaft , they have a bend it them. at the head. needle bar where you say it's very rusty. there is a huge bushing in the cast iron body it's pressed in, on the outside is a set screw which has to be removed

now the fun part , to get the shaft out that bushing has to come out as the shaft does. it's on you as to how your going to do that..

do you know what a BFH is lolol

crocee

Well I own several BFH's but I'm hoping I won't have to use one. I found the pin in the handwheel adapter and it looks like its going to be a bear to get out.

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oooooooooooooook now I see. it was very rusty see that screw you ask about, to the left the thing that looks like a tunning fork , and the bigger screw on that, right there is the slider.

after seeing these photo's get out the BFH, and take it apart ..

a good working upper shaft, totally unhooked, you should be able, to use two finger and spin it from the handwheel end, that shaft should roll over 3 times, before slowing down

back to that huge bushing at the front. I have gotten this out after the set screw is removed. by sliding the main shaft into the bushing, than stand teh machine on the face plate like on a block of wood, use a long drift pin / steel rod. on the handwheel end of the main shaft and lighty tap. keep watching to see if that bushing moves. if not, your better off to not remove it. because it is a crankshaft and will bend. it should come out enough to clean up some of that rust and bearing surface

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the pin on the adapter, if you don't have small punches, a 16 p nail will work BUTT grind or file the pointed end flat first or it will just bend on you . and smack it hard the first time, The hard shock will break the pin loose, not BFH hard , just hard. since we understand BFH lolol.

SteveH

remember your goals. you may not NEED to take it all the way down. Now that you have created better access you can work on the in deep stuff. I use pipe cleaners, old type nail file/board, tweezers to pick/scrape carefully, shots of PB Blaster, etc...