Is there a list somewhere on what machines or not so good?
10-03-2013, 08:17 AM
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Steph,
What Steve said and I'll add this. In the 50s plastic or nylon began to be used in sewing machines. By the 70s many Singers and other brands were using plastic gears and other parts. Machines that would have been good durable designs died early deaths because of the plastic parts. In the 80s they began to use aluminum skeletons inside plastic clam shell bodies. Those machines work but are anything but durable. Their internal parts are stamped from thin steel and plastic and are just not well made.
I'd say just keep learning and stay away from the machines made in the late 70s on.
Joe
What Steve said and I'll add this. In the 50s plastic or nylon began to be used in sewing machines. By the 70s many Singers and other brands were using plastic gears and other parts. Machines that would have been good durable designs died early deaths because of the plastic parts. In the 80s they began to use aluminum skeletons inside plastic clam shell bodies. Those machines work but are anything but durable. Their internal parts are stamped from thin steel and plastic and are just not well made.
I'd say just keep learning and stay away from the machines made in the late 70s on.
Joe
10-03-2013, 08:59 AM
#4
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Knot Merrill, Southern Indiana
Posts: 5,781
Start by staying away from the ones that don't appeal to you visually.
After that, Joe pointed out some great hints about plastic gears.
As for others that should be sold with "warning" signs .....
There are certain Singer machines that were made in India, Taiwan and China that were made under license by Singer, but not necessarity to Singer standards. They are typically modeled after the Singer 15, sometimes the 66. They can be identified best by the serial number - you won't find it on the ISMAC's chart. They usually LOOK fantastic with very bold flashy decals that look too good to be true. If you see a machine with a bold flashy decal ... check the serial carefully. They are "reproductions" that were made in the 80's.
Some people like to steer clear of machines that have hard to find parts (ie a Wheeler & Wilson #8 being sold without bobbins or presser feet). So if you see a machine you like, when you research it, research parts as well (including bobbins and needles!).
other than that, as a general rule ... steer clear of a machine that looks like it was dug up from a river bed. 99% of the time it's just not worth the effort, even if the machine is free. An exception to this would be if you found a very rare machine at the bottom of said river, but I still wouldn't pay much money for it.
If you are just getting started and want to experience the joy of finding, cleaning, repairing and using a vintage machine, I would advise to look for something that has readily available parts (both bobbins/needles, and spare parts like tension). Most Singer's are a good bet as are most Japanese Clones. After that, try to find something that needs little in the way of cleaning/repairing.
Most of all, get what appeals to your senses.
After that, Joe pointed out some great hints about plastic gears.
As for others that should be sold with "warning" signs .....
There are certain Singer machines that were made in India, Taiwan and China that were made under license by Singer, but not necessarity to Singer standards. They are typically modeled after the Singer 15, sometimes the 66. They can be identified best by the serial number - you won't find it on the ISMAC's chart. They usually LOOK fantastic with very bold flashy decals that look too good to be true. If you see a machine with a bold flashy decal ... check the serial carefully. They are "reproductions" that were made in the 80's.
Some people like to steer clear of machines that have hard to find parts (ie a Wheeler & Wilson #8 being sold without bobbins or presser feet). So if you see a machine you like, when you research it, research parts as well (including bobbins and needles!).
other than that, as a general rule ... steer clear of a machine that looks like it was dug up from a river bed. 99% of the time it's just not worth the effort, even if the machine is free. An exception to this would be if you found a very rare machine at the bottom of said river, but I still wouldn't pay much money for it.
If you are just getting started and want to experience the joy of finding, cleaning, repairing and using a vintage machine, I would advise to look for something that has readily available parts (both bobbins/needles, and spare parts like tension). Most Singer's are a good bet as are most Japanese Clones. After that, try to find something that needs little in the way of cleaning/repairing.
Most of all, get what appeals to your senses.
10-03-2013, 10:10 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NW MO
Posts: 591
There are good machines in the 400 and 500 series and you can pick your poison with them - cams, camstacks, SS and ZZ. Personally I love the 403.
If I was required to have only one it would be the 201 with a zig-zag and blind stitch attachment. That would do all I need and do it well. Maybe a walking foot, also.
10-03-2013, 03:39 PM
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: North Central, NC
Posts: 2,741
This is such a great topic and I have already enjoyed reading the above comments .... not to mention the education I am getting. I sure will be hanging around this thread to read all the forthcoming comments. I am no where near an expert or can offer great advice except for agreeing with the part about buying one(s) that you like to look at and speak to you ..... after making sure they work and are mostly metal of course.
10-03-2013, 04:12 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 427
When I see a machine on Craig's list that I know nothing about, but I am interested in, I google the heck out of it. I read absolutely everything anybody has ever written about that model. If there are problems with that machine you will find out about it! I also do a search on that machine here to see if there are any threads already written.
If it passes that test, I make sure parts are easily accessible, I check eBay and other online sources for sewing machine parts.
The only problem is, and it's a happy problem, is my wish list keeps getting longer from all the research I do.
If it passes that test, I make sure parts are easily accessible, I check eBay and other online sources for sewing machine parts.
The only problem is, and it's a happy problem, is my wish list keeps getting longer from all the research I do.
10-03-2013, 04:20 PM
#8
Power Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 12,861
any machine that has held up through time, has been cared for and is still in good working condition is worth having- regardless of brand- it has passed the test of time and that in itself is an endorsement.
10-03-2013, 06:05 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: NW MO
Posts: 591
www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj6XaW-Wk98
This Singer has a dirty secret but you'd never know to look at it. Modeled after the popular 185.
10-04-2013, 05:03 AM
#10
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 2,103
Your question is which machines to avoid. Here is a YouTube about the 285 to avoid.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj6XaW-Wk98
This Singer has a dirty secret but you'd never know to look at it. Modeled after the popular 185.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=tj6XaW-Wk98
This Singer has a dirty secret but you'd never know to look at it. Modeled after the popular 185.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bearisgray
General Chit-Chat (non-quilting talk)
5
06-19-2015 05:44 AM
craftybear
Links and Resources
0
05-20-2011 01:22 PM
