suezquilts

We saw where this was good for cleaning up a Featherweight, has anyone tried it on another machine? I have several Red Eyes I would like to try it on.
My concern is: would the finishes be different on the Red Eye that it would harm the finish?

Our 16 yr old is cleaning machines up to sell, and also purchased a scissor sharpening system for an at home business, and he really cleaned up my worst looking featherweight. Just tried it out on it, and wow, it took several coats to pull off all the gunk.

If this isn't the right stuff to use, let us know.

Rescuing these machines can get expensive, but totally addicting.

I was able to sew on the clean featherweight last night for the first time, and a shiny machine sews much better.

Caroline S

Yes, I would like to know also. Will be watching this thread. And yes, I am addicted to fixing and cleaning vintage machines, almost as much as addicted to fabric.

jljack

Charlee uses this wax on her freshly cleaned machines, but not for cleaning. There are several better ways to clean the machines before you put a protective wax coat on it, which is what this product is.

The best way to clean an old machine is with sewing machine oil or diluted Dawn dishwashing liquid on a cotton ball on the main body, and with Evaporust for any rusty metal parts, or Bar Keepers Friend (powder cleaner in a can) if there is minimal rust but a lot of oxidation and old oil on the metal parts.

It isn't expensive to clean up old machines. It just takes time and patience, and a lot of cotton balls, rags, soft toothbrushes, etc. Ask for information on the Vintage Sewing Machine Shop thread, and there are several of us there to help and give advice.

sewnsewsue

I used this on one of my black 301s and the Singer decal began to disappear. I am now using a lemon oil and beeswax mix. A friend uses orange oil spray in a bottle.

k9dancer

I use TR3 a lot. If the clearcoat is shot because someone at some time used the wrong cleaning chemical on it, those decals will begin to shift their ink regardless of what goes over them. I use the TR3 on an inch or two of the painted areas at a time, and I use 20+ applications and rub them out with cotton or soft microfibre type cloth. If you use it over decals that have started to degrade, they will continue to do so with the resin glaze.

suezquilts

I struggle with the thought of putting water on a machine like this, don't cleanning sprays have water in them?

I have been using batting scraps to clean it, 80/20. We'll try some dawn dish soap, would you just dilute this a little with water?

thank you for your help, thought I would get a lot of ideas.

Kas

You don't dunk the machine in the water. Use a damp rag with some Dawn on it and then damp rags to get it off. I would use the TR3 or any new product on a back decal first. If the protective shellac is gone, they will silver in the blink of an eye. And the coating is different on a Redeye than on a Featherweight. Always test if you haven't used that particular product on that particular machine. It is fun, isn't it?

jljack

I don't spray anything directly onto the machine. NEVER! I mostly use Dawn on a damp rag for really old oily residues, or just sewing machine oil to remove basic dirt. Then wipe everything down with just a plain damp rag, using Qtips to get into crevices and toothbrushes to get into cracks, etc. Simple is better with these old finishes...you never know what is going to harm them.

caspharm

I've seen people using "Renaissance" Wax. It is good for Japanned items (the finish on most FW).

AnnaF

If this is the Blue Magic product, yes this is great to clean up old Singers. It won't harm the decals like other products. It works really great.