Caroline S

Here is another one of my projects. This is a sewing machine I dug out of my mother's basement when we moved here out of her house. She spent the last 8 years in the storage unit until a couple of months ago when I decided that I was paying for the storage unit and everyone else was storing their stuff/junk in it.

I fell so much in love with Morse Fotomatic that I acquired last week that I decided that I will keep it all to myself and loan the Universal to my granddaughter. This sewing machine is filthy on the outside but other than a little dust and grime the underneath is OK. The foot control is side mounted on the inside of the cabinet with a knee lever. I am going to replace that with a new foot controller and electrical plug in box as the plug in box is broken.

The top of the cabinet is in really bad shape so I am going to peel off the worst of the veneer and sand it. A full cabinet fix will have to wait till later. I think that once GD has her baby this summer (she also has a 3 year old) she will lose interest in sewing and the machine will come back to me.

I plugged her in to the new controller to test drive the motor. After a little hesitation the motor started turning. That is all the information I needed. I do not see grease ports on the motor. I have posted a pic of the motor. Does it need greasing? If so, how? I have been looking online for a manual but so far no luck. Tonight she will get oiled on all parts that look like they move.

cabbagepatchkid

I love the turquoise machines. She'll clean up beautifully. There is a Yahoo group for the Japanese clones and you might find info for getting a manual on there. Here is the link: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vintag...guid=228862397

J Miller

"If" the motor is oilable there will be a tiny oil hole on the top of the bump in the middle of the motor where the bearings / bushings are. The motor is very similar to the one on my MW 7 Jewell and it does have oil holes.
I can't see those places in your pics, so wipe off the old dirt and crud and see if there's a little hole on each end.

Joe

Caroline S

Yes, Sir. On my way.

Caroline S

I spent half the cleaning and polishing. I removed the knee activated foot pedal and associated wiring. The only thing saveable was the foot pedal. I then took a real good look at the motor and decided to remove it for a thorough outside cleaning. It was then I noticed the bare wires coming out of the bottom. I was so hoping that the motor was good, not. There were bare wires inside of the motor also and did not look safe to me, aargh. Even though I really wanted to keep the blue cased motor on the machine, it is not going to happen. I guess this girl will get a black replacement motor.

Caroline S

Picture 1, Serial # and JA number
Picture 2, Top of machine, note that there are not any oiling ports
Picture 3, Top of machine with the cover off showing the gears
Picture 4, Decorative stitch regulator
Picture 5, Knobs on the pillar, Stitch length regulator, Reverse button, Feed dog lowering knob

I am going to oil everything that appears to move with Triflow. Until I receive the replacement motor she will have to sit. The old motor is going to my brother in South Carolina to see if it is repairable. Meanwhile I am going to take another picture of the front and learn to use MS Paint to label the knobs and buttons.

Thanks to Irishrose for the hint about moving the silver lever on the top middle of the machine. I can now dial in about 1/2 half of the stitches.

J Miller

Caroline,

Here's what I see about your machine, it's controls are very similar to mine:
A: White nob with blue ring and designs on it on the left is your stitch regulator.
B: Put it on any of the darker filled in patterns, then put the stitch width nob on 0 to 1 and you will get that pattern. Any farther on the width nob decreases the pattern. At "5" all you get is a satin type stitch.
C: For the lighter patterns on the nob, you'll need to move the pointy up lever to the left to engage reverse. These patterns cause the machine to run backwards while making the stitches.
D: The bottom white nob with the small chrome ring around it is your stitch length regulator. To get the tightest patterns set it on 1/2 to 1.
E: To get straight stitch with the needle centered; put the needle position on "M", the stitch width nob on "0" and the pattern control nob on "manual".
F: To get zig-zag without using the patterns on the pattern nob, set the pattern nob on "manual" and move the stitch width control anywhere right from "0". The higher the number the wider the stitch.

I find it's best to leave the needle parked in the center position unless you need to move it for a special pattern.

Let me know if these instructions help any. I haven't gotten "totally" familiar with mine but I'm getting there.

Now, where are you getting your new cord block and motor? Just curious.

Joe

J Miller

Oh, and yeah, I can't begin to count the number of places I'd oil in that thing. Don't forget the under side as well.
I'd also suggest putting some of the Tri-Flow grease on that big gear too.

Joe

J Miller

Oh, one other idea ..... you could mount it in your Zenith treadle cabinet and run it

Joe

Caroline S

Will do. Was not sure where to put some grease but it is logical to put some on that big gear.