Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell
#2831
Originally Posted by Kitzone
I have been working on cleaning my 1907 Singer 27 and have a question .... or more : )
1.) How the heck do you take out the presser foot bar? I've tried several different things but for the life of me I can't figure it out.
2.) What is the purpose of the knob above the bobbin winder?
3.) How do you get the plates and knobs to look like polished chrome?
1.) How the heck do you take out the presser foot bar? I've tried several different things but for the life of me I can't figure it out.
2.) What is the purpose of the knob above the bobbin winder?
3.) How do you get the plates and knobs to look like polished chrome?
The knob above the bobbin winder is to adjust stitch length.
If the plates and knobs are rusted, Evaporust will remove it quickly. If they're dirty, try an Oxyclean solution. To shine, a metal polish usually works.
#2832
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Bikini Bottom
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Originally Posted by Kitzone
I have been working on cleaning my 1907 Singer 27 and have a question .... or more : )
1.) How the heck do you take out the presser foot bar? I've tried several different things but for the life of me I can't figure it out.
2.) What is the purpose of the knob above the bobbin winder?
3.) How do you get the plates and knobs to look like polished chrome?
1.) How the heck do you take out the presser foot bar? I've tried several different things but for the life of me I can't figure it out.
2.) What is the purpose of the knob above the bobbin winder?
3.) How do you get the plates and knobs to look like polished chrome?
A model 27 is a great machine and that is the machine that I cut my teeth into when I started collecting.
The presserfoot bar will come out from the top of the machine. make sure that the thread cutter is removed from the presserfoot bar and then there is a grub screw on the guide that the presserfootbar goes through that needs to be removed. Take the thumbscrew that holds the tension on the presserfoot bar completely out then you should be able to remove the bar. The spring, guide and a small washer should all come out too and you are good to go. Now if it is hard to get the bar out of the guide shoot it with some WD40 and twist it around to get it out.
I hope it helps, if you want go look at this tutorial and look at the photos and it might help you also.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-45816-1.htm
Billy
#2833
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Originally Posted by Miz Johnny
Why are you removing presser foot bar? Unless it's bent, there's no reason to do so. If it's twisted (foot appears "crooked") there's a screw to loosen to straighten it.
Plus it makes it easier to clean and detail the machine if it is out of the way.
Billy
#2834
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Oh and I forgot there were three different finishes for the plated parts.
The parts were all nickle plated and they will not have the deep luster that chrome has but it will have a good shine if that is how the machine was optioned.
But the finishes are as follows: Satin, Polished and Blackside. The Satin was just that a dull non polished nickle plate the finish looks just like a nickle. The polished is the shiny pretty finish that favors chrome, and the last is a Blackside finish which were done two different ways. one is a bluing like you would have on guns. It was done by creating a iron oxide finish basically boiling it in salt water and gently wiping off the piece. This was done repeatedly until the color or finish reached the desired look. The second was just a painted finish or japan depending on the year it was manufactured.
Word of caution if you have the Blued version of a blackside finish never clean with a metal polish it will clean the bluing right off of the piece. you have to be gentle and wipe with a soft cloth or baby wipe.
Billy
The parts were all nickle plated and they will not have the deep luster that chrome has but it will have a good shine if that is how the machine was optioned.
But the finishes are as follows: Satin, Polished and Blackside. The Satin was just that a dull non polished nickle plate the finish looks just like a nickle. The polished is the shiny pretty finish that favors chrome, and the last is a Blackside finish which were done two different ways. one is a bluing like you would have on guns. It was done by creating a iron oxide finish basically boiling it in salt water and gently wiping off the piece. This was done repeatedly until the color or finish reached the desired look. The second was just a painted finish or japan depending on the year it was manufactured.
Word of caution if you have the Blued version of a blackside finish never clean with a metal polish it will clean the bluing right off of the piece. you have to be gentle and wipe with a soft cloth or baby wipe.
Billy
#2835
Originally Posted by Lostn51
Originally Posted by Miz Johnny
Why are you removing presser foot bar? Unless it's bent, there's no reason to do so. If it's twisted (foot appears "crooked") there's a screw to loosen to straighten it.
Plus it makes it easier to clean and detail the machine if it is out of the way.
Billy
#2836
[quote=Icandothat]
I don't think you should refinish it at all, I think you should send it to me instead!! ;) :lol:
I wouldn't paint it! I would put a longer wire on so that the "table" lays flat, and I would wash the wood with Murphy's Oil Soap, let it dry, give it a going over with Homer's Furniture Refinisher and then a coat of Homer's Beeswax with Orange Oil...
Thanks, Charlee..... I will try those products. The cabinet looks so washed out.... I would love to bring it back to life.
Do you know what machine originally came in this cabinet? Or the time frame when it was sold?
I love this thread and try to keep up on the new posts.
Thanks, again.[/quote
Also, are you aware of any tricks to adding another wire?
Charlee,
Is Homer the same as Formbys? Where do you buy the refinisher and the beeswax?
No, it's another product...I buy it at Home Depot, and I think Ace Hardware carries it too! :) (Lowe's doesn't)
Originally Posted by Icandothat
Originally Posted by Icandothat
Originally Posted by Charlee
Originally Posted by Icandothat
I recently "acquired" this sewing machine cabinet that I want to refinish. I need advice.
1. Do you know anything about this cabinet? What machine was originally in it? etc.
2. How should I refinish the veneer? Should I consider painting the entire cabinet?
3. Note the way the cabinet "cover" section opens. It only opens to this 90 degree angle. At first I thought the "take up" wire slid back and forth in the groove, but after examining it, I think the wire is fixed at both ends. Do I need to replace this wire with a longer one that allows the "cover" section to lay flat?
I appreciate you taking the time to advise me.
1. Do you know anything about this cabinet? What machine was originally in it? etc.
2. How should I refinish the veneer? Should I consider painting the entire cabinet?
3. Note the way the cabinet "cover" section opens. It only opens to this 90 degree angle. At first I thought the "take up" wire slid back and forth in the groove, but after examining it, I think the wire is fixed at both ends. Do I need to replace this wire with a longer one that allows the "cover" section to lay flat?
I appreciate you taking the time to advise me.
I wouldn't paint it! I would put a longer wire on so that the "table" lays flat, and I would wash the wood with Murphy's Oil Soap, let it dry, give it a going over with Homer's Furniture Refinisher and then a coat of Homer's Beeswax with Orange Oil...
Do you know what machine originally came in this cabinet? Or the time frame when it was sold?
I love this thread and try to keep up on the new posts.
Thanks, again.[/quote
Also, are you aware of any tricks to adding another wire?
Is Homer the same as Formbys? Where do you buy the refinisher and the beeswax?
#2839
Ok. Just bought a new, used power plug for my 301. The rubber on the outside of the wires is kind of sticky. Is that normal? should I just return it and try to rewire the plug that came with it? The outside plastic covering the wires was cracked, but the part that connects to the machine is the original bakelite and the insulation on the wires themselves seem uncracked. What do ya think?
#2840
Okay, I did it again. Lol. Yesterday, we went to a car show. They had a nice flea market with it. The ladies and I had to check out the flea market and guess what followed me home? A Singer, #AL476361. Audrey said that pretty soon Bob will stop taking me along to car shows. This is the 2nd machine I've picked up at a car show. It is not in a cabinet, just the head. When I asked the guy how much it was, he said $50. Whoaaaaa!!! I turned around and started to walk away, then he said, $10. It nicely followed me back to the car. It came with a book and some attachements. The book says 15-125, but, when I look at the machine, the model number is in the wrong place. Could someone tell me what model this is and what year it was made? Also, where can I lookup Singers to find out for myself what year a machine was made and what model it is for future reference? I love this group. I am now totally addicted to collecting vintage machines. If I'm lucky, I might get dh to go back to an antique shop. I saw a white treadle for $75. The cabinet was in good shape, not sure about the machine yet, that's why I want to go back.
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