J Miller

Alrighty then. I'm back with some pics of a bunch of needles. I'm going to expound on them as we go and really hope what I have to say makes sense.

Subject machine: Kenmore 120-491.

Problem; it takes Kenmore #49 or Boye 2 ½ needles. They are for all intents and purposes, extinct.

OK, I want to sew with this machine, but I do not want to alter it for different needles. The reason for this line of thinking is two fold.
A: If I should ever find some original needles I'd like to be able to use them.
B: I'm not really sure enough about retiming a needle bar to want to do this at this time.

Picture one is a comparison of 4 needles.

They are marked. The red thread marks the eyes of the needles. You can clearly see how much longer the points are on the DCx1F and 15x1 needles. You can also clearly see the over all length of each needle.

>The 206-13 needle has a point very similar to the KM #49, but is much longer. If I were going to alter the needle bar, this is the needle I'd adjust it for. These needles are not as hard to come by as the Sewingmachine221sale.com place would have you believe. But as the machine sits now, this needle would be too long.
>The 15x1 needle has a much longer point below the eye than the KM #49 or 206-13 so even if the bar was adjusted so you could use this needle, the longer point could be a problem. I don't know for positive on this, but I'm unwilling to alter the machine just to try it.
>The DCx1F is shorter than the KM #49 and has a slightly longer point. But it can be seated out farther to match the KM #49's length and or eye position. This is the needle I've chosen to use. It comes in sizes 11, 14, 16 and 18. I don't see a need for any more than that.

Picture 2 is the first spacer attempt.

This spacer adjusted the DCx1F to the same length as the KM #49, but left the eye sitting higher.
This has caused a minor problem with the top thread tension, and a refusal of the machine to sew through fabrics such as fleece. By lowering the needle about an eyes length the machine started sewing through the fleece normally, and the tension evened out nicely.

Picture 3 is the second spacer.

This spacer places the eye of the DCx1F in the same place as the eye in the KM #49. This will, I hope, fix all the problems with the tension and problems with the fleece.

I hope this made some sense to every one. If it didn't, or if you have something to add by all means do so.

Joe

melinda1962

Somewhere in this thread is a post about someone's dh who used bolt cutters to shorten the too long one with the right eye for a machine.

chris_quilts

Joe; Thanks for the explanation and the visuals. Great job on explaining the differences.

Chris

vintagemotif

Joe, That is an excellent explanation. Thank you for taking the time to put this together so that we have a better visual explanation of what you are dealing with. Good luck on this endeavor!

jennb

I'm a visual learner and this explanation makes MUCH more sense to me. Thank you so much!

jennb

Here's a few more pics of the Singer 28 I picked up off Craigslist this morning. SN dates her to 1902. As you can see she is missing a couple of parts but I'm hoping they won't be too difficult to come by.
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J Miller

Well, that's one way to do it for sure.

Joe

Christine-

Love the decals on her. You found a nice one!

J Miller

Well, that's one way to do it for sure.

Joe

J Miller

chris_quilts, vintagemotif, jennb,
Thanks for the kind words. I tried to make it understandable without being pompous.

It sews good now, except the tension is still giving me trouble. I hosed the top tension out with break clean this afternoon. Will let that dry out then try again.


Joe