Went to a LSWS and learned something......
#11
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
Vmaniqui,
Thank You, very interesting. Goes to show mechanics have preferences and their own favorite ways and products to do things. I'll give the tubing method a shot if it doesn't work well I'll go back to soldering. Keep in mind you still have to remove the motor, open up, and untie the UL knot, etc. Not sure if soldering is that much more work but I'm game for new ways to do things. Much appreciated,
Jon
Thank You, very interesting. Goes to show mechanics have preferences and their own favorite ways and products to do things. I'll give the tubing method a shot if it doesn't work well I'll go back to soldering. Keep in mind you still have to remove the motor, open up, and untie the UL knot, etc. Not sure if soldering is that much more work but I'm game for new ways to do things. Much appreciated,
Jon
THANKS ALL.
Last edited by vmaniqui; 01-15-2014 at 03:34 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 586
Vmaniqui,
Thank You, very interesting. Goes to show mechanics have preferences and their own favorite ways and products to do things. I'll give the tubing method a shot if it doesn't work well I'll go back to soldering. Keep in mind you still have to remove the motor, open up, and untie the UL knot, etc. Not sure if soldering is that much more work but I'm game for new ways to do things. Much appreciated,
Jon
Thank You, very interesting. Goes to show mechanics have preferences and their own favorite ways and products to do things. I'll give the tubing method a shot if it doesn't work well I'll go back to soldering. Keep in mind you still have to remove the motor, open up, and untie the UL knot, etc. Not sure if soldering is that much more work but I'm game for new ways to do things. Much appreciated,
Jon
Very Flexible Heat Shrink Polyolefin Tubing - IP49VP
Very Flexible Heat Shrink Polyolefin Tubing has a high degree of flexibility with low shrink temperature and high flame retardancy. This allows for a wide range of product applications from a single tubing. Rated at 135°C, this tubing has been engineered to offer a low shrink temperature of 100°C. This allows the tubing to shrink rapidly, thereby minimizing heat exposure and possible damage to sensitive substrate materials or components. Very Flexible Heat Shrink Tubing is ideal for aircraft/aerospace assemblies where flexible wire bundling and fire-resistant covering of components is required.
i just hope i could find this at my local Frys electronics or hardware store. might worth trying.
thanks.
#13
Well, it seems like you managed to find one of the sources of the problems that we all end up dealing with....
It is WD-40 that leaves a gummy residue, TriFlo leaves behind teflon (not gummy, a lubricant) I suspect that when (if)he tried Triflo, it loosened the old oil and then he did not clean it so the old oil became the gummy crud...
Please Email me the business info, I'd like to stop by and have a look see myself.
It is WD-40 that leaves a gummy residue, TriFlo leaves behind teflon (not gummy, a lubricant) I suspect that when (if)he tried Triflo, it loosened the old oil and then he did not clean it so the old oil became the gummy crud...
Please Email me the business info, I'd like to stop by and have a look see myself.
It also sounds like he was saying that Tri-Flo grease was gummy and left a residue, and not the oil, which he said was okay, but that sewing machine oil was better.
#18
We have a Singer Troll in our area too - he's been selling for 50-60 years, and he's more of a hoarder than anything. Shop is full of really neat old Singers and attachments and NOTHING has a price on it. He won't even quote a price, and if you offer something, he smirks and says it's worth way more than that. He's past retirement age, so I guess he plans on having things until he's dead, and then they can sell for cheap, or more lkely end up in the dump since there is little market for them locally.
My husband hates going in there now, because they guy wants DH to buy his business. Not like we'd ever do that - and of course, he wants it for a price that would take all the profit out of it for the next 20 years.
He also tried to talk my husband into buying a Pfaff with a broken part -saying that since DH fixes them, he could find the part and replace it cheap. At least DH knew about that machine, and that the part is unavailable and is broke in almost all of that style machine - so it's not really worth anything - and no where near what the guy was asking.
But we also know if he could have fixed it affordably, he would have. I don't think they guy is really making any money at the shop now days, but don't think he needs to either, it's just a place he can spend his days surrounded by things he loves, and occasionally talk to a customer who walks in the door.
Every time we drive by, I look to see if there is a "going out of business" sign on the door. If he actually does start to want to sell things, I want to be at the front of the line!
My husband hates going in there now, because they guy wants DH to buy his business. Not like we'd ever do that - and of course, he wants it for a price that would take all the profit out of it for the next 20 years.
He also tried to talk my husband into buying a Pfaff with a broken part -saying that since DH fixes them, he could find the part and replace it cheap. At least DH knew about that machine, and that the part is unavailable and is broke in almost all of that style machine - so it's not really worth anything - and no where near what the guy was asking.
But we also know if he could have fixed it affordably, he would have. I don't think they guy is really making any money at the shop now days, but don't think he needs to either, it's just a place he can spend his days surrounded by things he loves, and occasionally talk to a customer who walks in the door.
Every time we drive by, I look to see if there is a "going out of business" sign on the door. If he actually does start to want to sell things, I want to be at the front of the line!
#20
i know- that is what holding me back. such a p...a just to get into the motor wirings, i have to remove everything so it's like rebuilding the whole motor. and since you've removed everything then why not clean it, degrease it and so on and so on. wish there is an easy way to work on the 2 wirings.
I read a really good quote the other day: "If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have the time to redo it?"
The flip side of how to look at this is: What's your time worth? I like to think my time is worth enough that I'd like to do it once and be done with it, rather than revisit it again down the road because the first "fix" was inadequate. You have the information at your fingertips to do it the best way... I would say just do it.
Yes, it's time consuming the first couple of times, but it IS worth it. And once you have the experience, you won't hesitate to do another one. Thanks to Rain's tutorial, I've not balked at motor work and managed a few really good deals on machines as a result. I've probably rebuilt more than a half dozen and they take me less and less time each time.
Not giving him the benefit of the doubt: He doesn't sell Tri-Flow, but he does sell the SM oil and Singer Lube....
That said, the Singer Lube is necessary for the motors, so it won't go to waste.
TIP 2: he mentioned in cleaning up a dirty, dingy, dusty sewing machine the best method is to put Wd40 on a piece of cloth and to wipe your machine with it. will clean the machine in no time at all. but not to spray WD40 on the machine. just a small amount on a piece of cloth. and for the metal parts, he used denatured alcohol. not on the painted part just the metal shiny part. after that, wipe it with sewing machine oil (just what i've been doing) but to really make it shiny, he used carnuba or any car wax.
WD-40 has been rumored to silver decals. This is usually, as far as I understand it, when the shellac is already failed, but sometimes that's not obvious. Again, proceed with a huge helping of caution.
Lots of people use the Car Wax. I never get the shine I'm looking for, but I'm sure that's my technique. I can get a great shine with a power polisher on the bikes or the car, just not on a sewing machine for some reason. So yes, I usually use SM oil.
TIP 3: also on my potted motor, since i mentioned that i am fixing the wirings, he said not to cut the wire to just put a heat shrink on separate bare wires and then heat shrink both. that's what he's been doing. make sense as i don't need to cut, braid and solder.
ETA: I'm being hard on you because I know you can do this and I think you'll be happer with the result in the end. It's also empowering. It's the trainer in me at work again.
Last edited by ArchaicArcane; 01-16-2014 at 11:33 AM.
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